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End play on axle

07charger67

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I guess I asked this question in the wrong section, but how much side to side movement can you have on a 8 3/4 742 rear end? I think I might have about 1/4 to 1/8" play. I have a weird noise I'm hearing and I'm trying to trouble shoot it.
 
That's way too much. I forget the book numbers but I usually go around .010 on a cold axle.
 
I'm sorry, I look at a tape measure and its less than a 1/16th of an inch. I've driven it around and felt the axle housing in many different locations, checked the fluid and adjusted the brakes and they are all fine. I drove it up on ramps and now it makes this sound when I turn and hit bumps?????
 
It should be a minimum of 3 thou and max would be around 10 thou as Cranky said.
Keep in mind,if you were to grab the axle end flange and push/pull........your more likely to hear the endfloat (a slight clonk but only just) as opposed to feel it.
If you can feel it or measure it with anything other than a dial indicator.....then it's got too much.
 
How do you fix that then if there is some end play? Or can you fix it?
 
I know that I ask a lot of questions but would an axle end play over time change or doe it only change when you take out the axle's? I have been driving this car easy with not too many burn outs and only a couple races in the stock classes.
 
The factory spec, if memory serves, is .008" - .018". I usually find myself leaving the adjuster side slightly snug so I can move the adjuster nut with slight force then tighten the flange and check the end play. The other side should be all the way tight. Tightening the adjuster flange will most likely take out the clearance you just put in when it's snug so you'll have to play a little game with getting the correct end play when the flange is tight. It's not hard but can be frustrating at times. Make sure you pack grease in the bearings. These are NOT lubed by the rear end oil.
 
Ok so I read the manual and tried to adjust the end play myself. It took a couple of mallet hits and adjusting of the axle nut but now I have no end play that I can FEEL. Now the manual shows a gauge that will tell you the tolerance! I can spin the axle and both sides will not move in and out. How do I know its not adjusted too tight? The lock tab fit back where it was supposed to without too much adjustment of the axle nut.
 
If you can grab the axle flange and shake it back and forth and hear it, then you have some clearance. If it turns freely but there's no movement that you can hear, then you do not have any and that will cause problems as it heats up. The lock tab should fit into one of the slots in the adjuster. If things are snug now, back the adjuster off one slot and see what you have. .008-.018 sounds like what I remember the book saying too...I do know that .003 isn't enough. What kind of noise does it make? Clunks, pops? Does this rear have a SureGrip in it? Btw, the adjuster should be on the passenger side and the thrust pin in the center of the rear makes up with the driver side axle so the adjuster affects both axles....
 
Well you can't hear anything when I put the wheels back on. I did drive it last night for a couple of miles and took a bunch of turns to see if I could hear any noises which I did but I think its coming from the front end. I did have a lot of end play so I had to adjust it! After I drove the car I parked it in the garage and went under and felt the rims, back plates by the bears, inner bearings by the diff, and even the pinion bearing and none of the areas were even hot. I didn't get over 35 mph if that makes a difference.

Its an open rear end and the noise only happens when I turn sometimes and it almost sounds like rubber on metal or a squeaking noise.
 
A long drive on a not day at high speeds can generate temps up around 200 degrees. A squeaking noise could be coming from the U-joints being dry...
 
All I know is that after I put it up on ramps it makes this squeaking noise. I'm going to borrow a dial gauge and set it again tonight. The u-joints are non-greasable ones.
 
Packing the bearing caps should be done before installing u-joints. They should last a good 50k miles at least. I'd at least check the the rear to make sure there is still lube in it and at least check the front to see if it has any looseness or binds since it can't be greased without taking it apart.
 
I felt the rear u-joints when I was under there with both hands and it didn't move at all "slop". I didn't do the front ones though.
 
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