Engine install from underneath

[moparmarks]

I just went to the Chinese store and got a couple of those $12.00 dollies.

 

[70 GTX-R]

My brother and I installed my engine from under. Found it went very smooth and was able to assemble most engine stuff quickly. this was installed the night before we took it to world of wheels. goal was to drive it in. Couldn’t have a Hemi car with an empty engine compartment.
Made the jig very low profile to reduce how much lift required to slide engine under. we left hood on so we wouldn’t disturb the dirt.
Since then, we bought a building across street and installed one of the 2 post hoists. So roof high no longer an issue.

 

[3white74]

I bought mine from us car tool ....very happy with quality and function ....time is money with me ....my thoughts were why reinvent the wheel

 

[T2R9]

I just went with modified moving dollies, worked fine and I will use them again on the next one.

 

[JoePole]

KD.....Sorry about your cam issue. I just did my first engine/trans swap out of the bottom. Mine was a small block but I made a dolly out of one of those HD type 6 wheel rolling carts someone was selling on CL. Hard to see but I also added more bracing from the upright to the base. The threaded rod on the unistrut is adjustable for BB or SB K-members. I also took the time to gusset,
weld and paint the K while it was out.
I did run into a pretty big snafu getting my passenger torsion bar out. I doubt it's common but I had to make a removal tool
and drive it out even with no load on it and with the rear hex past the crossmember. It wound up pulling my control arm
shaft out of the arm itself. It was not that old. Only thing I could think of is hydro-locked from the grease.
Anyway....expect the unexpected. Good luck and keep us posted on your progress.

 

[Toxic Orange 493]

Here is a picture of the one that I made to hold the engine while I checked the bellhousing runout. Then I figured I would be able to use it for installing the engine.

I tried to keep it as low as possible since I don’t have a lift and have to use an engine hoist to lift the front of the car.

 

[autoxcuda]

If you don't have a lift, you need to get it low and with some support in the rear.

This one was rectangular at one time. But with headers installed it needed to be tapered.

Plywood top with carpet to protect. Use strong wire to pull the spindles up by hooking to K-member hole. Otherwise disks will drag on ground.

Bolt (or leave) A-arms to body. Then you just have to line up UBJ to upper spindle hole.

 

[max340]

It looks like I will be RErebuilding my 440/493. The flat tappet MP 528 solid cam lost at least 3 lobes and I just can't risk further damage by putting in another cam without first pulling the engine and cleaning it all out. This situation would be a real pisser but it gives me the opportunity to make a few changes for power and reliability.
Last year, I swapped in a Tremec 5 speed. I have never done an engine R & R with a manual trans. I am thinking that I'll pull them together and reinstall them together.
Because of this, I am going to do a "body drop" installation and maybe even a removal.
I plan to make some sort of cart or stand with casters. I will fab and weld something together so that I can wheel it under the car, lower the car with a car lift and bolt it all up. I might make the transmission section "bolt together" to make this thing easier to stow or transport.
I would really appreciate some input and pictures if possible. I don't know how tall to make this thing. I'd probably need to make it adjustable so I can use it with other arrangements, I.E. B body B/RB with A/T, A body LA with 904 or 727.
Show me what you did!
Thanks!

 

[Moparfever65]

I ran good oil. I have been using Redline 10W30 with added Zinc for over a year. I always added Comp Cams break in supplement at oil changes. Maybe the valve springs were too stiff? I kept the same ones I had with my last cam, a Lunati solid with more lift.

They say you should break the cam in with light springs or that will happen. I built my current motor before hearing that, so I'm getting ready to pull the valve covers to remove the inner springs for break-in. There's a Youtube from Uncle Tony on cam break-in.

 

[Kern Dog]

There is a lot of information put out that does not apply to every situation.
Of the 4 cams that I have lost in my time, none went bad during break in. Every one was well after the car was up and running for awhile. I've never used dual springs and never had sky high pressures.

 

[gkent]

Of all the one's I've seen here or elsewhere I like this one most. Why? Because its simple and it provides access to K-member bolt holes. The only things I would change ... make the base high enough for the legs of the engine hoist to go under and a small scissor jack at the rear - 'cause you know things ain't gonna line up !!

 

[Gus chiggins]

It looks like I will be RErebuilding my 440/493. The flat tappet MP 528 solid cam lost at least 3 lobes and I just can't risk further damage by putting in another cam without first pulling the engine and cleaning it all out. This situation would be a real pisser but it gives me the opportunity to make a few changes for power and reliability.
Last year, I swapped in a Tremec 5 speed. I have never done an engine R & R with a manual trans. I am thinking that I'll pull them together and reinstall them together.
Because of this, I am going to do a "body drop" installation and maybe even a removal.
I plan to make some sort of cart or stand with casters. I will fab and weld something together so that I can wheel it under the car, lower the car with a car lift and bolt it all up. I might make the transmission section "bolt together" to make this thing easier to stow or transport.
I would really appreciate some input and pictures if possible. I don't know how tall to make this thing. I'd probably need to make it adjustable so I can use it with other arrangements, I.E. B body B/RB with A/T, A body LA with 904 or 727.
Show me what you did!
Thanks!

I bought the cradle from u.s. cartool. I took the easy way out. I'm so ashamed

 

[mrhemi]

Did your setup fit between the tread plates of your 4 post lift?

Here is my cart. Bought some 400lb rated swivel casters, the rest was just scrap steel I had. The two front vertical posts fit into the openings on the k, back portion matches up with the trans pan. I got some 5/8x12" bolts to use as guides up front when mating up, cut the heads off. Works great. I can leave the headers on too.

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[ckessel]

It fit no problem. The front vertical tubes go up into the oval holes in the k-frame so its narrower than the k. I threaded the 1' bolts into the k holes, heads cut off of course, to help guide the alignment when bringing it down.

 

[Gus chiggins]

I wimped out and bought the UScartool engine/trans dolly. It breaks down so i can store it. Oh how i wish for a big shop

 

[chtampa]

My dolly is 3' tall so you can stand to bolt it up. I welded 3' of tubing on cut off bolts and the 4 rods align the k-frame as it comes down.

 

[eldubb440]