engine missing

[74roadrunner440]

i dought both carbs could be bad whats wrong with edelbrock im not a big fan of holley that dont explain y my rpms jump 300 rpms unless its a timming thing or the cam but i cant adjust the mixtures has no affect on engine wich dont make sence to me seems like a facume leak but dam if i can find it

 

[moparmarks]

If you can bottom out the F/M screws and the motor still runs then that carb is not on the idle circuit. Motor will not idle right if the carb is not on the idle circuit. Basic carb 101.
F/M screws controll amount of gas in the idle circuit. You stated that the plugs were fowled. Oil or fuel? Really should re-place them amd then find the baseline. Then go from there.

 

[charger360]

i would pop a new set of plugs in you would be surprised how many times that fixes a tuning problem! you have to remember you are not doing a stock tune here, it will take a bit to tune this in. is your mp distributer a newer one? i have a newer one on a car here and the adv. curve was crazy! at 18 degrees at idle i had almost 45 total! i had to buy the set up kit before i could use it. and it was a super fast curve which made the advance come in at anything over 1000 which made the idle fluctuate quite a bit as i had some cam in that engine and it was at about 1000 at idle! once i dialed in the curve i was able to set the rest. that sounds a bit like the problem you have no? it all works together you will never get your carbs right if the plugs are fouled or the timming is off or the curve is to fast for your idle speed[as in you may need heavier springs] and if your idle speed is to high you are not in the transfer slots on your carbs anymore so you can't set your idle mixture. i feel you really need to get your timming on the money first or you are just wasting your time.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Just an FYI here, you may want to get a spring and needle kit for you carbs, eddy makes it simple to adjust the idle load up with simple spring changes I had a issue with trying to adjust the idle air mix and used the kit to step down the spring pressure and it worked great. You can do this without even taking the carbs off the intake very simple.

Also Eddy carbs do not have power valves that is a Holley style carb feature that when blown cause a lot of headache Eddy carbs may not make the power of some others but for a reliable street car they work great.

magneti marelli makes the eddy carbs anyway


A blurb from eddy site

Every Edelbrock carburetor is manufactured by Magneti Marelli Powertrain USA Inc.

Several characteristics make our carburetors outstanding street performers. The first one is that they use metering rods to transition between circuits. They are unaffected by engine backfires, which means that there are no power valves to blow out, and the rods can be changed in seconds without carburetor removal or fuel draining. Secondly, they have the unique ability to "hold a tune", so once they're tuned, they stay tuned. What this means to you is that compared to other carburetors, the performance remains consistent and the calibration stays unchanged. The lightweight all-aluminum body features a two-piece body that resists warping and is compatible with gasohol and blended fuels. The simple tub-type bowls and rear-pivot floats all contribute to a carburetor that's reliable, user-friendly and is easily tuneable for miles and miles of trouble-free operation.

 

[moparmarks]

and if your idle speed is to high you are not in the transfer slots on your carbs anymore so you can't set your idle mixture. i feel you really need to get your timming on the money first or you are just wasting your time.

Kinda my thoughts too.

 

[74roadrunner440]

i found out all my intake bolts came lose cuz i double and triple check my torques all da time on a build but when i did one bolt striped out but any way that prob in a difrent post hope that will fix my prob cut i used either n carb cleaner on my intake and base of carbs with no change in rpms or idle sound or choking out but herd of this happening to a friend of mine on his car but any way thanks every one for your help good and bad lol

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are holleys better than edelbrock? for as performance ? hp etc?......im going to get intake fixed then work on getting it timed and see where it is then was told these carbs are all set up for my motor all i had to do was change jets came as a kit with the dual quad set up from summit racing how do i know wich metering rods to replace with? or springs? but it idles fine its not loading up or doesnt sound like running rich just not affect w i adjust the idle mixture screws but thanks again every one

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im using a plain timin light with out total curve or advance how will i know if its advancing to fast or i need heavier or lighter springs and it was a brand new mp dist and any one rember what the iar gap should be i think it was like.008 i cant rember now thanks again every one

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im using a plain timin light with out total curve or advance how will i know if its advancing to fast or i need heavier or lighter springs and it was a brand new mp dist and any one rember what the iir gap should be i think it was like.008 i cant rember now thanks again every one

 

[charger360]

to get the curve set up you will need the mp advance kit pn# p5153446 it is easy to use and costs about 40 bucks at summit you can dial in the settings you need. that way you can be sure you get the initial you need and the total won't be off the chart!

 

[RustyRatRod]

What's wrong with Eddy carbs? Well, nothing if they are used with a mild or stock cam capable of drawing 14 or more inches of vacuum. They are actually GREAT in those applications. However, much below that and they have idle problems, because their primary metering rods rely on a strong vacuum signal. Once you pass a certain camshaft size where you have a poor vacuum signal, there's not a spring kit in the world that'll make Eddys idle good. That's where Holleys come in.

 

[74roadrunner440]

how do i know my curve is off or how would u test that b4 i put more money in to it without knowing what the prob is and also on my carbs im running not 1 edelbrock 600 but 2 on a ch28 intake i have a friend who runs the same set up with even a bigger cam but he has to run a seconday vacumpe pump but only for brake booster he had no prob b4 he added the pump just bad breaking

 

[74roadrunner440]

i got car fixed it was the intake gaskets must of been leaking and fixed stripped out intake manifold bolt that was stripped out got carbs tuned still need fine tuning and bumped up timing a bit seemp to have a compression sound when i tried to restart it is this normal once i let it sit it didnt do it y does this do that?

 

[RustyRatRod]

The timing is a touch too high.

 

[74roadrunner440]

its only a touch over 10 advanced n when every one tells me to advance to 14-20 advance? im confused now

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rusty a friend called me and said my dist needs to be reworked that true? needs more advance he has a 509 cam but i have higher comp i belive being its trying to push down an starter n make that comp sound is this right i want to achieve the pest horsepower at optium performance? if i need to rework dist can somone tell me what i need to purchase?

 

[Meep-Meep]

You still should do all your adjustments with the carb linkage disconnected. That way you know you are only fiddling with one idle setting at a time. Both carbs need to be flowing the same amount of air at idle and a good basic adjustment is to seat each throttle blade in the bore by backing off the idle screw. Once the idle screw is backed out to allow the throttle blades to seat bring them up slowly until the screw just starts to move the throttle arm and go one turn more. At this point both carbs will be on the idle circuit and if the timing is set correctly it will idle somewhere near 1000 RPM. I have set up carbs on Porsche 911's and Honda CBX motorcycles and I can say you need to start with a good basic adjustment.

 

[74roadrunner440]

both carbs are backed out 2.5 turns both r prety much at the same and i used a vacume guage to fine tune it

 

[sublimegtx]

Still haven't found it... lol...........sorry couldn't help myself

 

[Cranky]

Are you running a stock type starter? If it's backing against a hot engine, then I doubt you have too much timing and 10 initial isn't near too much. The stock starters were junk even when they were new and are prone to hot soak making them drag. Get a new mini and all that will go away. I even use junk yard mini's and if I find one that looks new, I scarf it up. Cheap too.

 

[74roadrunner440]

its a new reman mini i would never get a big boad anchor in between my headers i do think its getting hot i started it today w no compression sound and its a stock mp dist do i need to get a upgrade kit?

 

[RustyRatRod]

If it's lugging back against the starter, you have too much initial timing. It's possible the balancer has slipped or you're reading the 10* incorrectly. You should double check it. 10* of initial advance should not cause the engine to lug against the starter. It must have more.

 

[74roadrunner440]

its like 12-14 degree but now that engine is coll yeterday am i started it and started just fine i did notice when i was under the car a small slice or cut in the trans torqueconverter cover where the lip slides in between the trans and the block i know all tq bolt are tight what would cause this there was no cuts b4 when i pulled trans a few weeks ago for rear main leak?