Engine stalled while cruising in my 62 Fury - advice on how to proceed???

[Dk440]

Was supposed to be a perfect day at the annual Cruise and Meet, but ended in frustration and a tow truck ride!

It was 90 degrees out, so I was a Little hessitant at first, since I have been struggling with overheating issues, as soon as the outside temp. was above 80 degrees, but desided to go anyway.

Made it to the meet ok, and after a few hours, decided to head for home - never taking my eyes off the temp gauge which kept just below 200.

After driving for approx 20 min, I removed my foot from the gas to stop at a red light, and instantly the engine died! I tried to restart it, but it could not turn over and now the temp gauge showed 240 degrees!? So, I called the tow truck. After cooling down for 30-40 min, the temp now was 170, so I gave it a go and cranked the engine. It reluctantly fired up but squeeled like a pig, so I killed it instantly. Tow truck came, and took us home. Fired it up the next day when Cold, without any knocks or sounds...........!?

So my question is - what should I do. I am pretty sure, the pistons got stuck in the chambers due to the heat........and that can not be good. Yes, the engine runs, but would you take it apart now, in order to avoid it blowing up at a later stage?

Drained the oil, and it seems to have metallic dust in it + it smells burnt.

Talked to an enginebuilder, and his recommendations were to strip it and rebuild it asap. It makes perfect sence, only he wants to make Money, so therefore your thoughts are much appreciated.

Engine is a reworked 440 with purple cam, roller rockers, Performer heads, dual carb ( 413 Clone ).

Thank you.

Rolf

 

[silversedan]

sounds like the pistons are scored big time, must not have had enough piston to wall clearance?

 

[62 Dart Convertible]

If you are confident the only reason it didn't turn over when it stalled was that it was stuck (i.e. not an electrical/starter issue) then I'd say you know the answer Rolf. It needs to come apart for inspection/measurement and rebuild. Minimise the damage. If it were mine, the bonnet would be off by now....

Then before getting out in hot weather again, I'd do something about the overheating. Running a radiator shroud and clutch fan?

PS - Great looking car - post some pics in your gallery sometime you're up to it, We'd love to see more 62's here!

 

[Dk440]

I am confident.........!

Never really in doubt wether it needs to be rebuilt or not........I just do not have $8.000 laying around, so I just needed an extra oppinion or 10.....before I began to come to terms with the facts, and burry the car in my garage for the next couple of years untill I get the Money for the rebuild.

 

[rrowdy]

​

If your so inclined you can do most of this work yourself and have the opportunity to learn in the process.
If the cylinders aren't too bad take the block in and have a couple thousands honed out, new pistons, rings, gaskets and if you're lucky, you might get away with
a couple of grand or less and a lot of work.

Good luck to you!

 

[62 Dart Convertible]

I am confident.........!

Never really in doubt wether it needs to be rebuilt or not........I just do not have $8.000 laying around, so I just needed an extra oppinion or 10.....before I began to come to terms with the facts, and burry the car in my garage for the next couple of years untill I get the Money for the rebuild.

Real sorry to hear that Rolf.....

If damage was limited to pistons and bore and all else was done well and in good condition, it would not be anywhere near $8k to rebuild.

Would you remove engine yourself or are you paying somebody to do it all?

 

[Dk440]

I will be removing it myself and I can also tear it apart - no problem. But obviously need a specialist to hone and do all the basic engine Work to the crank + bearings if damaged, and maybe replace the pistons........basically all the spinning bits at the bottom, which I do not have the tools for.

 

[bigmanjbmopar]

Man that sux, I can remember hearing that squeal once, and not a belt squeal either, it was immediately followed by a loud boom and a connecting rod through the block ouch. tear down for sure you can probably go through it your self unless the bores are trashed. less than 500 will get you running.

PS I spent about 325 on a bore sonic and flux with cam bearings and line hone. good luck

 

[62 Dart Convertible]

I will be removing it myself and I can also tear it apart - no problem. But obviously need a specialist to hone and do all the basic engine Work to the crank + bearings if damaged, and maybe replace the pistons........basically all the spinning bits at the bottom, which I do not have the tools for.

That should be not too expensive Rolf. Certainly nothing like $8k!!

Block tank, bore, hone, new pistons + fitting to rods, new bearings if need be, gaskets, fluids, paint, band-aids for skinned knuckles.. $2k (provided no nasty surprises..)

 

[nm9stheham]

The first thing that usually happens when an engine gets too hot is the the pistons scuff a bit; it sounds like your went a bit further and actually seized a piston. But, the rod and main bearings usually will not be effected just by this. So, you are likley not going to have to do a lot with the crankshaft or rods. Similarly, the heads are not likely damaged either. So, this is probably not going to be as bad as you think.

Ususally after cooling down, a scuffed piston will knock a little bit and the seized one will rattle like hell; so I suspect your bores are not badly damaged either since you say that your engine does not knock when cold. You probably have some aluminum scraped off of the pistons.

 

[Dk440]

The first thing that usually happens when an engine gets too hot is the the pistons scuff a bit; it sounds like your went a bit further and actually seized a piston. But, the rod and main bearings usually will not be effected just by this. So, you are likley not going to have to do a lot with the crankshaft or rods. Similarly, the heads are not likely damaged either. So, this is probably not going to be as bad as you think.

Ususally after cooling down, a scuffed piston will knock a little bit and the seized one will rattle like hell; so I suspect your bores are not badly damaged either since you say that your engine does not knock when cold. You probably have some aluminum scraped off of the pistons.

So in other words, what you are saying is, I might get away with "only" having to do a hone and some new piston rings............and what if the piston(s) are scraped, do they not need to be replaced as well??? I have zero expierience with the internals, so all your answers are much appreciated.

 

[dryheat]

Any chance the builder used KB hypereutectic pistons? The ring end gap is critical on those.

 

[nm9stheham]

So in other words, what you are saying is, I might get away with "only" having to do a hone and some new piston rings............and what if the piston(s) are scraped, do they not need to be replaced as well??? I have zero expierience with the internals, so all your answers are much appreciated.

Not really just rings. What I meant by 'scraped' is that some of the piston surface has been pulled/torn off, which I am assuming is the reason for the metal flakes in the oil.

I would be mentally and financially prepared to minimally put in new pistons and rings and a hone, and to possibly replace the rod bearing shells, and possibly the mains. The condition of the cylinders is to be determined, and you might have to bore.This is all just a best guess form the symptoms described. But it ultimately is all TBD. I would check the crank for dimensions and being straight but I would not expect the journals to have issues with the symptoms described. Heads and cam and rockers all need to be cleaned; it sounds like there may be some metal in the oil and it could have gone anywhere.

Bottom line: Pistons and cylinders would be my main concern and crank/rods not as likley to need any work. EVERYTHING needs to be cleaned and cleaned and cleaned, and inspected.With the hot temps, also check the heads for straightness.

Next time use full synthetic.... it makes a huge friction reduction in the cylinders and keeps a much harder-to-shear layer of lubrication on the cylinders and bearings; since this seems to just barely have seized, then it might have saved this. (Just don't ever break in an engine with synthetic.) And fix that cooling system!

- - - Updated - - -

Any chance the builder used KB hypereutectic pistons? The ring end gap is critical on those.

A good point for ANY rings in theis situatiaon, IMO.

 

[Dk440]

Not really just rings. What I meant by 'scraped' is that some of the piston surface has been pulled/torn off, which I am assuming is the reason for the metal flakes in the oil.

I would be mentally and financially prepared to minimally put in new pistons and rings and a hone, and to possibly replace the rod bearing shells, and possibly the mains. The condition of the cylinders is to be determined, and you might have to bore.This is all just a best guess form the symptoms described. But it ultimately is all TBD. I would check the crank for dimensions and being straight but I would not expect the journals to have issues with the symptoms described. Heads and cam and rockers all need to be cleaned; it sounds like there may be some metal in the oil and it could have gone anywhere.

Bottom line: Pistons and cylinders would be my main concern and crank/rods not as likley to need any work. EVERYTHING needs to be cleaned and cleaned and cleaned, and inspected.With the hot temps, also check the heads for straightness.

Next time use full synthetic.... it makes a huge friction reduction in the cylinders and keeps a much harder-to-shear layer of lubrication on the cylinders and bearings; since this seems to just barely have seized, then it might have saved this. (Just don't ever break in an engine with synthetic.) And fix that cooling system!

- - - Updated - - -

A good point for ANY rings in theis situatiaon, IMO.

Perfect - exactly what I needed.......just a rough estimate from the symptoms given. I allmost got a heart attack, when the local specialist estimated the cost to be between $6-8K!!! That must be a worst case scenario, with new crank and bearings and the whole szchebang! If I do this my self - and maybe even actually learn a little something in the process.............:hello2: - I think realistically I can keep the cost to some where in the $2-4K range. Since funds are on the low side at the moment, I guess I will do this as a winther project, and have it running some time next spring - but at least now I got a little bit more of an understanding of, what to look fore.

Thanks for all the replies so far.

Regards from Denmark.

Rolf

 

[62 Dart Convertible]

Good luck Rolf!