Estimated 1/4 mile - 71 Roadrunner 340 4 speed

[icetech]

How about needing a arbor press, pinion and side bearing remover, spanner wrench, micrometer, piece of thick wall tube to press the bearings back on, and a fixture to hold the carrier? I've was in the auto repair side 47 years. did plenty of axles at the dealership. To this day I find them the most time consuming job I've done. In this hobby it's never bad to learn. In this case You either buy all the stuff and learn. Then you'll do one a year so you'll be slow. Or pay to have it done.
Doug

I forgot the press (i'm at work and replied in a hurry and i shouldn't) i replied with the removal tool i used and put the bearings back on with...

 

[dvw]

I made this a seperate post. This looks like a really nice street car. Hitting the track once in awhile is always fun. Having tires that don't spin is a huge help. Beyond that, you start getting into how far can I go to make it quicker? Beware that 4.89 gear, stock 23 spline, stock 8 3/4, stock rear supension, stock style shocks, heavy car wormhole. Been there, done that. Try it first with some good tires. Do you really like to race? If so? Then you have a decision. Take a really nice car and make it not as street friendly. Or build/buy a dedicated racecar. It doesn't have to be an 8 second deal. But if it's a dedicated car weight can come off. Cam, gear, and clutch/converter can get into the correct deal. This is coming from a guy that has a nice 12 second street car, a more radical but drive anywhere 11.0 car (that at one time was my only real dependable street car), and a dedicated 9.0 drag car. They all have their place.
Doug

 

[340runner]

When springtime comes, practice,practice,practice. Get consistency and the best results you can. Then,,,, worry about modification

I8I made this a seperate post. This looks like a really nice street car. Hitting the track once in awhile is always fun. Having tires that don't spin is a huge help. Beyond that, you start getting into how far can I go to make it quicker? Beware that 4.89 gear, stock 23 spline, stock 8 3/4, stock rear supension, stock style shocks, heavy car wormhole. Been there, done that. Try it first with some good tires. Do you really like to race? If so? Then you have a decision. Take a really nice car and make it not as street friendly. Or build/buy a dedicated racecar. It doesn't have to be an 8 second deal. But if it's a dedicated car weight can come off. Cam, gear, and clutch/converter can get into the correct deal. This is coming from a guy that has a nice 12 second street car, a more radical but drive anywhere 11.0 car (that at one time was my only real dependable street car), and a dedicated 9.0 drag car. They all have their place.
Doug

I'm really just trying to break as an end goal with the car 11s, I don't want to mess with interior too much, I said I'd not put a 6 pt roll cage in, but I'm probably going to end up doing it because it's also safer on the street and we have terrible drivers on the roads. Not to mention chassis stiffness gained from it. It would be nice to get a dana 60 from like a truck, I'd actually love it but my issue is I can't weld really, ive boogered on some things but i dont trust myself to weld axles. I'm disappointed actually that my school doesn't offer it, they have really nice miller welders but nobody that can teach it.

Things I don't want to do is swap in a big block, I feel like that gets rid of a lot of the character the car has, maybe a big stroker kit like a 416 or bigger on a ritter or r3 block.
I don't want to strip off the interior, I like it. I'd add a roll cage and harness though. I also don't want to go to a 9 inch rear end.

I'd also like to potentially when I get power that can utilize the true potential of the tire move my leaf springs in for bigger tire eventually, and on that note of fabrication stiffening of the chassis

 

[340runner]

I made this a seperate post. This looks like a really nice street car. Hitting the track once in awhile is always fun. Having tires that don't spin is a huge help. Beyond that, you start getting into how far can I go to make it quicker? Beware that 4.89 gear, stock 23 spline, stock 8 3/4, stock rear supension, stock style shocks, heavy car wormhole. Been there, done that. Try it first with some good tires. Do you really like to race? If so? Then you have a decision. Take a really nice car and make it not as street friendly. Or build/buy a dedicated racecar. It doesn't have to be an 8 second deal. But if it's a dedicated car weight can come off. Cam, gear, and clutch/converter can get into the correct deal. This is coming from a guy that has a nice 12 second street car, a more radical but drive anywhere 11.0 car (that at one time was my only real dependable street car), and a dedicated 9.0 drag car. They all have their place.
Doug

I don't know though, I might get out there then decide who cares about street friendliness and then make it not as friendly