Estimated 1/4 mile - 71 Roadrunner 340 4 speed

[icetech]

How about needing a arbor press, pinion and side bearing remover, spanner wrench, micrometer, piece of thick wall tube to press the bearings back on, and a fixture to hold the carrier? I've was in the auto repair side 47 years. did plenty of axles at the dealership. To this day I find them the most time consuming job I've done. In this hobby it's never bad to learn. In this case You either buy all the stuff and learn. Then you'll do one a year so you'll be slow. Or pay to have it done.
Doug

I forgot the press (i'm at work and replied in a hurry and i shouldn't) i replied with the removal tool i used and put the bearings back on with...

 

[dvw]

I made this a seperate post. This looks like a really nice street car. Hitting the track once in awhile is always fun. Having tires that don't spin is a huge help. Beyond that, you start getting into how far can I go to make it quicker? Beware that 4.89 gear, stock 23 spline, stock 8 3/4, stock rear supension, stock style shocks, heavy car wormhole. Been there, done that. Try it first with some good tires. Do you really like to race? If so? Then you have a decision. Take a really nice car and make it not as street friendly. Or build/buy a dedicated racecar. It doesn't have to be an 8 second deal. But if it's a dedicated car weight can come off. Cam, gear, and clutch/converter can get into the correct deal. This is coming from a guy that has a nice 12 second street car, a more radical but drive anywhere 11.0 car (that at one time was my only real dependable street car), and a dedicated 9.0 drag car. They all have their place.
Doug

 

[340runner]

When springtime comes, practice,practice,practice. Get consistency and the best results you can. Then,,,, worry about modification

I8I made this a seperate post. This looks like a really nice street car. Hitting the track once in awhile is always fun. Having tires that don't spin is a huge help. Beyond that, you start getting into how far can I go to make it quicker? Beware that 4.89 gear, stock 23 spline, stock 8 3/4, stock rear supension, stock style shocks, heavy car wormhole. Been there, done that. Try it first with some good tires. Do you really like to race? If so? Then you have a decision. Take a really nice car and make it not as street friendly. Or build/buy a dedicated racecar. It doesn't have to be an 8 second deal. But if it's a dedicated car weight can come off. Cam, gear, and clutch/converter can get into the correct deal. This is coming from a guy that has a nice 12 second street car, a more radical but drive anywhere 11.0 car (that at one time was my only real dependable street car), and a dedicated 9.0 drag car. They all have their place.
Doug

I'm really just trying to break as an end goal with the car 11s, I don't want to mess with interior too much, I said I'd not put a 6 pt roll cage in, but I'm probably going to end up doing it because it's also safer on the street and we have terrible drivers on the roads. Not to mention chassis stiffness gained from it. It would be nice to get a dana 60 from like a truck, I'd actually love it but my issue is I can't weld really, ive boogered on some things but i dont trust myself to weld axles. I'm disappointed actually that my school doesn't offer it, they have really nice miller welders but nobody that can teach it.

Things I don't want to do is swap in a big block, I feel like that gets rid of a lot of the character the car has, maybe a big stroker kit like a 416 or bigger on a ritter or r3 block.
I don't want to strip off the interior, I like it. I'd add a roll cage and harness though. I also don't want to go to a 9 inch rear end.

I'd also like to potentially when I get power that can utilize the true potential of the tire move my leaf springs in for bigger tire eventually, and on that note of fabrication stiffening of the chassis

 

[340runner]

I made this a seperate post. This looks like a really nice street car. Hitting the track once in awhile is always fun. Having tires that don't spin is a huge help. Beyond that, you start getting into how far can I go to make it quicker? Beware that 4.89 gear, stock 23 spline, stock 8 3/4, stock rear supension, stock style shocks, heavy car wormhole. Been there, done that. Try it first with some good tires. Do you really like to race? If so? Then you have a decision. Take a really nice car and make it not as street friendly. Or build/buy a dedicated racecar. It doesn't have to be an 8 second deal. But if it's a dedicated car weight can come off. Cam, gear, and clutch/converter can get into the correct deal. This is coming from a guy that has a nice 12 second street car, a more radical but drive anywhere 11.0 car (that at one time was my only real dependable street car), and a dedicated 9.0 drag car. They all have their place.
Doug

I don't know though, I might get out there then decide who cares about street friendliness and then make it not as friendly

 

[torredcuda]

Be aware adding a cage and driving on the street without a helmet or 5 point harness may not be safer as banging your head off that steel tube in an accident will not good for you, at least make sure it is padded well.

 

[340runner]

Be aware adding a cage and driving on the street without a helmet or 5 point harness may not be safer as banging your head off that steel tube in an accident will not good for you, at least make sure it is padded well.

Oh I'm definitely making sure it's padded very well, also if the cross bar is low enough and lines up with the seat back, could adding a headrest there be a possible idea

 

[torredcuda]

I'm really just trying to break as an end goal with the car 11s, I don't want to mess with interior too much, I said I'd not put a 6 pt roll cage in, but I'm probably going to end up doing it because it's also safer on the street and we have terrible drivers on the roads. Not to mention chassis stiffness gained from it. It would be nice to get a dana 60 from like a truck, I'd actually love it but my issue is I can't weld really, ive boogered on some things but i dont trust myself to weld axles. I'm disappointed actually that my school doesn't offer it, they have really nice miller welders but nobody that can teach it.

Things I don't want to do is swap in a big block, I feel like that gets rid of a lot of the character the car has, maybe a big stroker kit like a 416 or bigger on a ritter or r3 block.
I don't want to strip off the interior, I like it. I'd add a roll cage and harness though. I also don't want to go to a 9 inch rear end.

I'd also like to potentially when I get power that can utilize the true potential of the tire move my leaf springs in for bigger tire eventually, and on that note of fabrication stiffening of the chassis

You`ll need a bunch more HP to get into the 11`s which I`m sure you already know. My goal with my cuda was to get a high 12 right off the street on BFGs T/As but I was .26 seconds off and never got there, more HP or slicks may have done the trick. My dream like yours is to take my 340 and build a ~ 500 HP stroker small block backed by an A855 Passon 5 speed but I`m about $15k short of the $15k I need to do that and also trying to build my `70 road runner.

 

[340runner]

You`ll need a bunch more HP to get into the 11`s which I`m sure you already know. My goal with my cuda was to get a high 12 right off the street on BFGs T/As but I was .26 seconds off and never got there, more HP or slicks may have done the trick. My dream like yours is to take my 340 and build a ~ 500 HP stroker small block backed by an A855 Passon 5 speed but I`m about $15k short of the $15k I need to do that and also trying to build my `70 road runner.

Yeah, I was thinking a cracked out NA ritter 416 or 435 would get there, have a compatible top end with the speedmaster heads and torker 2 intake, but would still change it to probably trickflows if i had the money. I'd think the combo on high compression, hughes is saying 12.6 to one on their high compression 416 kit

you think that rough combo and bottom end has 700hp capacity? I think that'd be whats needed to punch 11s reliable, but I may be off

 

[340runner]

Yeah, I was thinking a cracked out NA ritter 416 or 435 would get there, have a compatible top end with the speedmaster heads and torker 2 intake, but would still change it to probably trickflows if i had the money. I'd think the combo on high compression, hughes is saying 12.6 to one on their high compression 416 kit

you think that rough combo and bottom end has 700hp capacity? I think that'd be whats needed to punch 11s reliable, but I may be off

Also, if I can stay off of the aftermarket block and a production 340-416 or maybe just maybe a 360-426 i would, the money is scary honestly

 

[torredcuda]

"Your ET / MPH is 11.14 seconds and MPH of 121.29 MPH
computed from your vehicle weight of 3500 pounds and HP of 500 ."
ET-MPH-HP Calculator

A stock block with good heads should easily get you there. I had a buddy with a stock bottom end 350 with KB hyper pistons and Trick Flow heads running 10.60s, it was in a much lighter race only Monza but still shows you need too much fancy high dollar stuff to make HP and go fast.

 

[340runner]

"Your ET / MPH is 11.14 seconds and MPH of 121.29 MPH
computed from your vehicle weight of 3500 pounds and HP of 500 ."
ET-MPH-HP Calculator

A stock block with good heads should easily get you there. I had a buddy with a stock bottom end 350 with KB hyper pistons and Trick Flow heads running 10.60s, it was in a much lighter race only Monza but still shows you need too much fancy high dollar stuff to make HP and go fast.

Well, I haven't weighed it, but the curb weight on the title and everything i seen for the car is 3580, and that'd be no driver.
I mean, I'm unsure of my exact hp but id think my 340 right now is capable of running more than a low 14 based on trap speed from you calculations
I'm unsure if its just a bad cam combo and the timing and carb is tuned for pump 93, but you'd think it had more power? Prev. Owner said it's bored 30 over, maybe he has low compression pistons in it cause he planned for boost?
I wish it was easy and could be done in a hr or to to properly remove the head to check compression so I at least know what I'm working with
Id also consider 93 + octanium octane booster if i could advance timing more to make a actual difference, i don't daily the car anymore

 

[RR Fan Dan]

Wish I had your money when I was 16

 

[71Beeper]

You may be right about some of your engine internals being a little soft.
You gave us the duration numbers on the cam but no lift numbers. Small blocks love good lift numbers - anything in the mid .550's & up.

I too have a 71 Runner with a small block, it's a .030 over 360 with 340 'J' heads. I have a Isky solid cam in the .550" lift plus I have 1.6 Harland Sharpe rockers for even more lift.
I too have the same 4 speed as you do and I only have 3:23's in mine but I do have a set of 3:55's to try.
I just finished my build but ran into a snag with one of the cylinder heads.

Anyway, the point I was trying to make was as others have said you don't need alot of hard core stuff to go pretty fast in the quarter.
Case in point - this is my buddies Aspen Drag car.

All steel car - weighs in at 3800 lbs. front bumper lightened but the rear bumper is complete.
Full interior.

408 stroker engine (360 based) with Eddie heads.
Has a .590 solid Racer Brown roller cam.
Runs the smaller 904 transmission with a 4000 converter.
Best time = 10.90
He currently runs in the low 11's with it (11.25 in the rear quarter window in the photo).

When he had the original 360 in it - it ran in the high 11's
That engine wasn't stone stock, but wasn't too outrageous either.

Keep improving with what you have - you will learn alot and hopefully have fun while doing it.

 

[torredcuda]

Trap speed gives you a decent idea of HP, getting your ET down in the 13`s or at least low 14`s should just be a matter of a good launch and 60' time.

 

[340runner]

Wish I had your money when I was 16

It's surely fun, having a job with no expenses to pay so it all goes into fun. None of this would be possible w/o my parents though so you can call it daddy's money. He rips it around too from time to time.
Already have my future planned out, had to make damn sure it kept up with my spending habits. Planning to be a pilot, working on my private license right now and going to college, airlines for now and the considerable future are hiring and paying well so it should support.

 

[340runner]

You may be right about some of your engine internals being a little soft.
You gave us the duration numbers on the cam but no lift numbers. Small blocks love good lift numbers - anything in the mid .550's & up.

I too have a 71 Runner with a small block, it's a .030 over 360 with 340 'J' heads. I have a Isky solid cam in the .550" lift plus I have 1.6 Harland Sharpe rockers for even more lift.
I too have the same 4 speed as you do and I only have 3:23's in mine but I do have a set of 3:55's to try.
I just finished my build but ran into a snag with one of the cylinder heads.

Anyway, the point I was trying to make was as others have said you don't need alot of hard core stuff to go pretty fast in the quarter.
Case in point - this is my buddies Aspen Drag car.
View attachment 1790690
All steel car - weighs in at 3800 lbs. front bumper lightened but the rear bumper is complete.
Full interior.

408 stroker engine (360 based) with Eddie heads.
Has a .590 solid Racer Brown roller cam.
Runs the smaller 904 transmission with a 4000 converter.
Best time = 10.90
He currently runs in the low 11's with it (11.25 in the rear quarter window in the photo).

When he had the original 360 in it - it ran in the high 11's
That engine wasn't stone stock, but wasn't too outrageous either.

Keep improving with what you have - you will learn alot and hopefully have fun while doing it.

Here's my cam specs, taken off the website, don't have the order sheet with me available as I'm in school right now, but this is the model

 

[340runner]

You may be right about some of your engine internals being a little soft.
You gave us the duration numbers on the cam but no lift numbers. Small blocks love good lift numbers - anything in the mid .550's & up.

I too have a 71 Runner with a small block, it's a .030 over 360 with 340 'J' heads. I have a Isky solid cam in the .550" lift plus I have 1.6 Harland Sharpe rockers for even more lift.
I too have the same 4 speed as you do and I only have 3:23's in mine but I do have a set of 3:55's to try.
I just finished my build but ran into a snag with one of the cylinder heads.

Anyway, the point I was trying to make was as others have said you don't need alot of hard core stuff to go pretty fast in the quarter.
Case in point - this is my buddies Aspen Drag car.
View attachment 1790690
All steel car - weighs in at 3800 lbs. front bumper lightened but the rear bumper is complete.
Full interior.

408 stroker engine (360 based) with Eddie heads.
Has a .590 solid Racer Brown roller cam.
Runs the smaller 904 transmission with a 4000 converter.
Best time = 10.90
He currently runs in the low 11's with it (11.25 in the rear quarter window in the photo).

When he had the original 360 in it - it ran in the high 11's
That engine wasn't stone stock, but wasn't too outrageous either.

Keep improving with what you have - you will learn alot and hopefully have fun while doing it.

Also just wondering, for reference how much does your car weigh and what does it run?
For pure curiosity, you think the 340 since it has a forged bottom end will eat a 100 shot? Sounds like a fun time but I'm getting tires first and if it's a big risk I wouldn't run nitrous

 

[RemCharger]

Nitrous is always a risk, but a small shot isn't too big of a deal, just need enough fuel pressure and turn the timing down.
First time we tried a 125 NOS kit, we put it on a bone stock 68 Fury duece with a 318. Just slapped on a 4bbl intake, still had single exhaust. Man that was fun.

 

[340runner]

Nitrous is always a risk, but a small shot isn't too big of a deal, just need enough fuel pressure and turn the timing down.
First time we tried a 125 NOS kit, we put it on a bone stock 68 Fury duece with a 318. Just slapped on a 4bbl intake, still had single exhaust. Man that was fun.

I don't think my dizzy has the capability of retard for nitrous, I'm on a msd 6a box and I think it's the stock dissy with some part to convert, it's still on vac advance though.

I kind of want to eventually go to sniper efi and hyperspark though, mainly for the ease of use and tuning. How are the capabilities to run nitrous with those systems?

 

[RemCharger]

I don't think my dizzy has the capability of retard for nitrous, I'm on a msd 6a box and I think it's the stock dissy with some part to convert, it's still on vac advance though.

I kind of want to eventually go to sniper efi and hyperspark though, mainly for the ease of use and tuning. How are the capabilities to run nitrous with those systems?

We used to just turn the timing down, but yes an msd nitrous retard box would be ideal.
I would not bother with any of the electronic c**p ( stuff). Expensive, unreliable, complicated, zero gain. Put that $$$ towards a stroker kit. IMO