Estimated 1/4 mile - 71 Roadrunner 340 4 speed

[340runner]

If you get tires that won't spin then it will bog with a heavy car, small block 3.55's and a 4 speed.

And forget about a 1.6 sixty foot with that combination.

4 speeds are fun to drive but tricky to get good times.

Ok, so I'm not exactly sure how to add it here, but I have a video of the launch I have. I'm basically wondering if it's too much, not enough or about what's good for my combo. Is there any way I can upload a video? It says mp4s aren't supported when I try

 

[340runner]

Check the basics first. Timing been checked? Spark plugs read? Lean or rich? What rpm are you shifting at?

Call me crazy but that setup with 3.55 gears would likely perform better with a performer rpm intake.

For a dual purpose drag radials the Nitto 555 drag radials always worked well for me on a heavy B body that ran 12.0's and didn't give issues in normal street driving.

I'm shifting at 6.5k rpm, and that's basically all it's got. I haven't driven the car in months due to the hellish winter here by Chicago, but id like to set timing good but I'm honestly not sure how and kind of scared of exploding my motor due to advancing it too far and I don't really have anyone to help me. Do you think a performer rpm will keep up to 7k rpm, and even then is it worth it over upgrading tires or suspension? I'm still 16 and thus kinda working on a shoestring budget, I'm trying to get subframe connectors before I get stickier tires honestly.
Also, I really don't need dual purpose drag radials, it's basically a weekender race car that I just need to drive to the strip and back, and maybe to a couple close car meets.

 

[496 polara]

If you are spinning then getting it to hook is priority number one. No tuning will make much difference until you can hook. Try to find some older experienced hot rod guys who can help you along the way. Get it to hook them worry about more power or better using the power you have.

 

[dvw]

Compare to my 360, 9.0-1 compression, ported factory head, [email protected] hyd roller, LD340 intake, 650 Holley DP, TTI headers and 2 1/2" TTI exhaust. It has the same close ratio 4 speed, 3.55, Challenger. Motor might make more than you do. But you'll get the idea. With Radial T/A's I walked it to a 13.20@105, once. Other times it could be high 14's. With drag radial's 12.70@107. With slicks and a 4.30, 12.50@110. The other thing that will slow you down is how fast you can shift the 4 speed. These times were made with the throttle full on the floor the entire time. Pull on the shifter hard and then just tap the clutch to get it to come out of gear. The 3.55 with the 2.47 1st gear is tough. Very little starting line ratio, only 8.76.
Doug

 

[khryslerkid]

Is there any way I can upload a video?

Download on YouTube then copy and paste the "share" link here.

 

[RR Fan Dan]

I really don't need dual purpose drag radials,

Dual purpose drag radials are street legal. Not sure if you’re thinking about running slicks or street tires, just saying, cause slicks aren’t street legal, and you don’t want to be driving around on them. I say just put some good street tires on the car and enjoy it. You’re very fortunate to have a car like that at age 16. It’s also a very special car. If you want to rag on something at the track, get a mustang and mod it. You have a very special and sought after car regardless what ET it runs.

 

[340runner]

Dual purpose drag radials are street legal. Not sure if you’re thinking about running slicks or street tires, just saying, cause slicks aren’t street legal, and you don’t want to be driving around on them. I say just put some good street tires on the car and enjoy it. You’re very fortunate to have a car like that at age 16. It’s also a very special car. If you want to rag on something at the track, get a mustang and mod it. You have a very special and sought after car regardless what ET it runs.

I'm talking about running 2 sets of wheels and tires, one for street and one for strip yeah.
I'm swaying in that direction honestly, because from me getting it I've never wanted to mod it too severe, like no roll cage or modifying the interior besides like a new Dash and maybe swapping the bench for the bench with the fold down armrest. I plan on keeping it for as long as I can, and end goal is a hot street car that occasionally goes to the track

I just want to see how I can maybe get it a little better without doing anything drastic

 

[340runner]

Compare to my 360, 9.0-1 compression, ported factory head, [email protected] hyd roller, LD340 intake, 650 Holley DP, TTI headers and 2 1/2" TTI exhaust. It has the same close ratio 4 speed, 3.55, Challenger. Motor might make more than you do. But you'll get the idea. With Radial T/A's I walked it to a 13.20@105, once. Other times it could be high 14's. With drag radial's 12.70@107. With slicks and a 4.30, 12.50@110. The other thing that will slow you down is how fast you can shift the 4 speed. These times were made with the throttle full on the floor the entire time. Pull on the shifter hard and then just tap the clutch to get it to come out of gear. The 3.55 with the 2.47 1st gear is tough. Very little starting line ratio, only 8.76.
Doug

Now that I look back at it 4 months later after driving more with stick and everything else, I need to shift faster, and align my shifter rods good because as my previous post says, it's finnicky

 

[padam]

Slicks might be faster, but it will take time to learn how to launch the car without bogging the motor too much.
Then, with a clutch, you WILL start breaking parts. U-joints, drive shaft, rear end, wheel studs.

I used to flat tow my car to the track on street tires, then change to slicks. One day I forgot the special lug nuts for the slicks so I had to run on street tires.
I just walked it out of the hole spinning until it hooked up. I think I went to the semi finals that night.

 

[RR Fan Dan]

2 sets of wheels is a good idea. have you decoded your vin and fender tag. You may want to see what option car you have before you replace seats and dash. The seat you are referring to with the armrest is called a buddy seat. Again you have a very sought after car that there are not a lot of left. Nothing wrong with a bench seat. How did you acquire the car? Pictures? Please post pictures.

 

[340runner]

2 sets of wheels is a good idea. have you decoded your vin and fender tag. You may want to see what option car you have before you replace seats and dash. The seat you are referring to with the armrest is called a buddy seat. Again you have a very sought after car that there are not a lot of left. Nothing wrong with a bench seat. How did you acquire the car? Pictures? Please post pictures.

View attachment 1789586View attachment 1789587

It's not optioned as a buddy seat, but as a bench. It would be probably my only thing that I would deviate from the fender tag aside from not putting ac back in because the owner ripped it out along with the radio and heater core. He also swapped it to bucket and console shift auto, but he gave the bench and the original a833 so I swapped it back when I blew up the transmission. He had it at 4.10s and I did have at one point 4.10s and a833 but I ended up exploding the rear end. One of my biggest regrets I have is going down to 3.55s, I miss the 4.10 punch and if I ever learn how to swap gears or get a 2nd center I will get 4.10s at least, if not more, just on a 26.5 inch tire they dont like the highway. I survived a summer w/o the AC and I get that it increases value but it seems like a pain in the *** to do. I got the car with help of my parents actually last March through Marketplace. I think I have pictures on my previous posts here, but I can drop more. I also might not swap to the buddy seat, I'm undecided. What I do need bad though is headrests, I don't have them at the moment.

 

[dvw]

Now that I look back at it 4 months later after driving more with stick and everything else, I need to shift faster, and align my shifter rods good because as my previous post says, it's finnicky

Motor sounds good. The shifting needs work. Watch this old gut. He does a pretty deceny job of rowin'em.

Doug

 

[340runner]

It's not optioned as a buddy seat, but as a bench. It would be probably my only thing that I would deviate from the fender tag aside from not putting ac back in because the owner ripped it out along with the radio and heater core. He also swapped it to bucket and console shift auto, but he gave the bench and the original a833 so I swapped it back when I blew up the transmission. He had it at 4.10s and I did have at one point 4.10s and a833 but I ended up exploding the rear end. One of my biggest regrets I have is going down to 3.55s, I miss the 4.10 punch and if I ever learn how to swap gears or get a 2nd center I will get 4.10s at least, if not more, just on a 26.5 inch tire they dont like the highway. I survived a summer w/o the AC and I get that it increases value but it seems like a pain in the *** to do. I got the car with help of my parents actually last March through Marketplace. I think I have pictures on my previous posts here, but I can drop more. I also might not swap to the buddy seat, I'm undecided. What I do need bad though is headrests, I don't have them at the moment.

 

[340runner]

Motor sounds good. The shifting needs work. Watch this old gut. He does a pretty deceny job of rowin'em.

Doug

Hahaha that's how i treated my jeep when I was about to replace the clutch actually just a couple weeks ago. I will say the gears go in a lot easier on the jeep though

 

[340runner]

Motor sounds good. The shifting needs work. Watch this old gut. He does a pretty deceny job of rowin'em.

Doug

also on that note, since i need to go and align my shifter rods properly again since I guess I never did the really right the first time, should I use on the transmission operating lever the closer hole for the rod, for a closer shift or should I just stick with the further out on the lever hole. I'd imagine I'd want to use the closer hole for shorter throw, but I'm not insanely sure and also not too sure if I need different rods, but it should be fine.

 

[33 IMP]

Well, I'm not sure if cooper cobras are good, they're hard as a rock, made a lot of smoke and still practically new tread while being horrendous in the rain, i remember driving to work and almost got perpendicular with the road without even stepping on it. I'm either in between bias ply slicks on a second set of wheels since I heard drag radials don't play with stick shifts well, or just run the et streets. I finally had to get a daily for over the winter so I don't drive the car in rain or any inclement weather by choice. Dailying the roadrunner with AC deleted and the heater core removed was hell

Second note, not sure if Byron Dragway would classify the ET street s/s as DOT street tires, need to run them in my planned class so that would also influence my decision

Cobras are pretty good street tires. They are NOT good race tires.
I'd try to find some 9" slicks that a class stock eliminator racer took off, cause they slowed down.
They'd still be plenty good enough for a 100 mph car..... and probably a half second better than cobras.
If you can get an under two second 60 ft (1.99) you will be doing good.

 

[dadsbee]

I find the 275 Cobras on my 64 spin sooooo easy. Hell it spun both tires when it had the open pot in it.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

There can be a big difference between trying to getting a car to hook on the street vs a sticky prepped race track. I would guess it might bog pretty bad at a prepped drag strip if you notice bogging on the street now. You might be able to tweek your timing or carb to overcome that. A edelbrock rpm would likely be much better running off the line with a 3.55.
They make lower first gears that you could put in and replace such as a 2.66 and a 3.09 from brewers. A close ratio really needs rear axle w 3.90 or lower.
A little nitrous couldn't hurt to overcome that bog along with a sticky tire!

 

[340runner]

There can be a big difference between trying to getting a car to hook on the street vs a sticky prepped race track. I would guess it might bog pretty bad at a prepped drag strip if you notice bogging on the street now. You might be able to tweek your timing or carb to overcome that. A edelbrock rpm would likely be much better running a 3.55.
They make lower first gears that you could put in and replace such as a 2.66 and a 3.09 from brewers. A close ratio really needs rear axle w 3.90 or lower.
A little nitrous couldn't hurt to overcome that bog along with a sticky tire!

I used to have 4.10s.... until my mechanic that my parents use for their car, and friends said that 3.55s would be better and I did have those done for me, I'm scared of doing rear ends, seems very complicated. I'll swap transmissions and clutches, but rear end gears are another level that I'm not sure i can do alone for the first time. I still regret that decision and wish that I knew anyone to help guide me on replacing gears or hell had a different center section

 

[dvw]

The gearing will work. Especially on the street. Just not ideal. When mine had the slicks the starting line rpm was at 5000. It took a pinion snubber close to the floor to work. All the rest of the suspension is bone stock with gas shocks. With that gearing a 26" slick is the best choice. I really like your car.
Doug