Factory original Chrysler ammeter-based Charging System and additional loading. Load placement matters!

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

If one wanted to replace a deteriorated amp gauge insulator, what type of material would you recommend and where would you purchase? I've found some glass-mat pcb material on ebay as well as thermal fiberboard, either can be cut to size. Your thoughts appreciated.

If fabricating replacements, any good quality insulting material should work as long as it can tolerate some heat. Just remember to account for the locating tabs/notches in the insulator that centers the ammeter stud pass-through in the cluster frame.

Haven’t seen these reproductions myself, but someone is making these based on the original design.

 

[LowBikeMike]

If fabricating replacements, any good quality insulting material should work as long as it can tolerate some heat. Just remember to account for the locating tabs/notches in the insulator that centers the ammeter stud pass-through in the cluster frame.

Haven’t seen these reproductions myself, but someone is making these based on the original design.

I have purchased the insulators shown in the link, they are quality and seem to be the same as original.

 

[Jonas Nordstrom]

If one wanted to replace a deteriorated amp gauge insulator, what type of material would you recommend and where would you purchase? I've found some glass-mat pcb material on ebay as well as thermal fiberboard, either can be cut to size. Your thoughts appreciated.

Yes, find some thick standard pcb from some old electrical thingy you have laying around, grind off the metal tracks, drill holes for the gauge and you are set with something way stronger than original.

Did this on my car, should be a pic in this thread somewhere.

 

[zombezoo]

Thank you OP for this video, it was very helpful in understanding how the system works any why the shunt wire "fix" does little to address the problem. My vehicle was a former parts car which exchanged its good factory under dash harness for a very damaged one. Back in the late 90s I added a shunt wire that I thought at the time was helping deal with my dimming headlights. I also upgraded to a 90a alternator which I realize now just increased the charging systems ability to stress the bad connections even more.

After storing the car for 23 years I have it back on the road and working through the issues. I have added some aftermarket items and I want to rework how they are fed. I found a small fuse/relay block that I planned to use to feed three items: 1) HEI Ignition Module, 2) EFI Fuel Pump, 3) Fietch EFI Dual Quad setup.

If I feed these items from the fuse/relay block and tie that into the charging post of the alternator, Am I correct in my understanding that would isolate those loads outside the factory bulkhead terminals? Is there anything else to consider here? I was also thinking of moving the headlight load to a relay in this same distribution block, Can you offer any advice on this approach?

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Thank you OP for this video, it was very helpful in understanding how the system works any why the shunt wire "fix" does little to address the problem. My vehicle was a former parts car which exchanged its good factory under dash harness for a very damaged one. Back in the late 90s I added a shunt wire that I thought at the time was helping deal with my dimming headlights. I also upgraded to a 90a alternator which I realize now just increased the charging systems ability to stress the bad connections even more.

After storing the car for 23 years I have it back on the road and working through the issues. I have added some aftermarket items and I want to rework how they are fed. I found a small fuse/relay block that I planned to use to feed three items: 1) HEI Ignition Module, 2) EFI Fuel Pump, 3) Fietch EFI Dual Quad setup.

If I feed these items from the fuse/relay block and tie that into the charging post of the alternator, Am I correct in my understanding that would isolate those loads outside the factory bulkhead terminals? Is there anything else to consider here? I was also thinking of moving the headlight load to a relay in this same distribution block, Can you offer any advice on this approach?

I would still by-pass both Packard terminals in the charge path at the bulkhead connector at a minimum. But yes, connecting your add-on loads at the alternator, not the battery, will remove those loads from the stock charge path while the charging system is in operation. Be sure to have a look at the “Not-so-stock” loading video.

 

[zombezoo]

I would still by-pass both Packard terminals in the charge path at the bulkhead connector at a minimum. But yes, connecting your add-on loads at the alternator, not the battery, will remove those loads from the stock charge path while the charging system is in operation. Be sure to have a look at the “Not-so-stock” loading video.

What do you think of Anderson Powerpole/PowerWerx connectors? I could unpin the two factory packard terminals, remove them from both factory side harnesses and add a Powerpole connection with a short bit of wire through the connector? Would allow me to retain the ability to disconnect the sides of the connector. I might even try it on my trashed harness first to see if it improves the system before I commit to completely replacing both harnesses.

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

What do you think of Anderson Powerpole/PowerWerx connectors? I could unpin the two factory packard terminals, remove them from both factory side harnesses and add a Powerpole connection with a short bit of wire through the connector? Would allow me to retain the ability to disconnect the sides of the connector. I might even try it on my trashed harness first to see if it improves the system before I commit to completely replacing both harnesses.

Use them all the time, you would want to use the PP120s for the charge path. Really no electrical need for a disconnect in those wires, run the charge path wiring straight through a rubber grommet to the ammeter. Pretty easy to pull back out if you need to service anything. Upsize the wires a bit if you are running a 95 amp alt.

 

[zombezoo]

Use them all the time, you would want to use the PP120s for the charge path. Really no electrical need for a disconnect in those wires, run the charge path wiring straight through a rubber grommet to the ammeter. Pretty easy to pull back out if you need to service anything. Upsize the wires a bit if you are running a 95 amp alt.

what about wire? i see a lot of CCA (copper clad aluminum) wire, do you have an automotive wire mfg you prefer?

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

what about wire? i see a lot of CCA (copper clad aluminum) wire, do you have an automotive wire mfg you prefer?

Prefer marine grade tinned copper wire for this application.

 

[zombezoo]

Use them all the time, you would want to use the PP120s for the charge path. Really no electrical need for a disconnect in those wires, run the charge path wiring straight through a rubber grommet to the ammeter. Pretty easy to pull back out if you need to service anything. Upsize the wires a bit if you are running a 95 amp alt.

Agreed that there isn't a need for a quick disconnect on the 8ga charge wire from the alternator to the battery. I will just route through a grommet and connect between ammeter and battery and ammeter and the alternator distribution lug and lug to alternator in the engine bay as shown in your diagram with fusible links.

For connections, I'm assuming you solder and heat shrink the fusible link connections. What about the ring terminals at the ends? Do you have a preference for a particular brand of terminal? Crimps with integrated heat shrink ok?

I'm planning to do a slightly modified approach on the alternator side of the ammeter: 8ga wire from ammeter to distribution lug, extend original factory ammeter connection with 10ga to lug through grommet and add fusible link as shown. Add my aftermarket relay/fuse box using the lug and run my aftermarket loads through there. I planned to use this Fuse/Relay Block and 12ga for: Headlights/Brights, Fuel Injection System with integrated fuel pump, HEI Ignition Module/Coil

Additional question: when rewiring the headlights, how did you go about rewiring? Reuse the stock plugs? What kind of terminals did you use?

 

[zombezoo]

Thanks again to 72RoadrunnerGTX.
For the first time in 25 years, my ammeter works like it's supposed to. I removed the shunt wire I had installed, and I now have upgraded wiring that actually supports both the factory loads and my aftermarket ones.
All loads now on the alternator side of the ammeter, only battery on the other side.

Gauge draw during fuel pump prime before start.
Heavy charging falls off shortly after engine starts.
I now have 14.3v at the coil + (previously like 12.7v)

 

[72RoadrunnerGTX]

Additional question: when rewiring the headlights, how did you go about rewiring? Reuse the stock plugs? What kind of terminals did you use?

Missed this one, you can get ceramic replacement headlight bulb connectors. High wattage halogens will generate some heat.

 

[zombezoo]

Missed this one, you can get ceramic replacement headlight bulb connectors. High wattage halogens will generate some heat.

I found those and ordered them, next project. I bought relays and pulled another 8ga over by the battery connected to the alternator side of the system for engine bay accessories.