Gyratingyak
Well-Known Member
I believe it was cheaper to order directly from him iirc. No Ebay fees tacked on top. But his Ebay store has all of his products, without trying to fit into business phone hours.What did you pay for the stuff from Don?
I believe it was cheaper to order directly from him iirc. No Ebay fees tacked on top. But his Ebay store has all of his products, without trying to fit into business phone hours.What did you pay for the stuff from Don?
I am running a Jegs dizzy. Seems to be a Mallory clone with the keys to adjust and lock down the advance slots to limit them. I really like it. They were on sale recently. I’ve had it for about 4 years now. But a factory with welded slots is just as good if not better, anything done right paired with that box should make you happy. Don also preaches the use of Vacuum Advance, so no issues there haha.I think I'm going to buy a stock rebuilt 440 electronic distributor and weld the slots, then add some stiff springs. I like factory parts for the ease of diagnosing and roadside replacement. The rev limiter is just some insurance.
Yo instead of doing the weld-the-slot trick I'll send you one of those FBO limiter plates if you want.I think I'm going to buy a stock rebuilt 440 electronic distributor and weld the slots, then add some stiff springs. I like factory parts for the ease of diagnosing and roadside replacement. The rev limiter is just some insurance.
If I remember right, Don advocates the vacuum advance to be connected at the manifold port. That seems odd to me. Once you crack the throttle, vacuum drops and the timing backs off. Strange....I am running a Jegs dizzy. Seems to be a Mallory clone with the keys to adjust and lock down the advance slots to limit them. I really like it. They were on sale recently. I’ve had it for about 4 years now. But a factory with welded slots is just as good if not better, anything done right paired with that box should make you happy. Don also preaches the use of Vacuum Advance, so no issues there haha.
Okay so I found their explanation...
"The reason we do not like vacuum advance is because our box has a digital type flywheel built in. This helps smooth out the timing, and it does not like all the movement and "chatter" vacuum advance causes. Some cars may seem to run better with their vacuum advance hooked up because they do not have enough initial timing in their car. If you have a 318 or a low performance motor, it can benefit from vacuum advance at part throttle. However, If you set your timing up with enough initial timing and the correct total timing, your car will run great without VA and get the best gas mileage and performance that can be expected out of these older cars."
Um....okay.
Well, the guy who runs the R/T Garage (Rev-N-Nator owner/designer) has been a mechanic working on Mopars for some 30 years now.....and you're a carpenter. I guess you probably know more than he does about how and why engines run, and ignition timing etc.Yeah, I don't buy that either.
First up, I am not a cheerleader for the product....I am however a genuine customer who has had nothing but positive experiences from installing a number of the Rev-N-Nator units in various vehicles. Every one I installed was met with applause from the owner because of their own unsolicited for praise.What makes you such a cheerleader for this product? I had one and it didn't provide a power increase but it did reduce fuel economy and make the engine knock. There is no power in ignition if it is working correctly. Rick Ehrenberg has stated that numerous times. Countless tests have been done to prove this.
I agree here (I've been using the FBO ecu which has an adjustable limiter). I use a ratcheting/positive stop type shifter, so I can't really 'miss' a shift, but he problem is when the tires spin in 1st gear. The rpms can get up and out of control very quickly with my setup, especially on road surfaces and it's nice to have a little extra protection in those moments. Of course I work to never spin or get into the limiter as I know it's not great for the engine, but it keeps the valves straight!For me, it isn't about missing shifts. It's that I get so caught up in the acceleration, I sometimes intend to shift at 5500-5700 but stay in it longer.
How much longer do you stay in it? Can you keep an eye on the tach (mount it with the shift point straight up helps) and where you are going at the same time? I'm shade blind but have excellent peripheral vision. At the track, I can mainly focus on the tach and still see where I am in the lane with the tach being mounted on the column. A buddy that owned the car I was driving at the time couldn't and mounted the dang thing on top of the dash. Ruined a good dash pad. It also had a shift light and that dang near blinded me the first time it came on with me driving. Made me wonder why do ya need a tach mounted high if it's got a light?? Anyways, build the engine where it'll hold up to more rpm even if the cam won't take it thereFor me, it isn't about missing shifts. It's that I get so caught up in the acceleration, I sometimes intend to shift at 5500-5700 but stay in it longer.
I've gone past 6000 a few times but not past 6200. The gauges are all in the cluster in a factory style arrangement.How much longer do you stay in it? Can you keep an eye on the tach (mount it with the shift point straight up helps) and where you are going at the same time? I'm shade blind but have excellent peripheral vision. At the track, I can mainly focus on the tach and still see where I am in the lane with the tach being mounted on the column. A buddy that owned the car I was driving at the time couldn't and mounted the dang thing on top of the dash. Ruined a good dash pad. It also had a shift light and that dang near blinded me the first time it came on with me driving. Made me wonder why do ya need a tach mounted high if it's got a light?? Anyways, build the engine where it'll hold up to more rpm even if the cam won't take it thereI just hate rev limiters lol