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Family Tradition

LOL....Old Ford donor.. Be sure and get a MIG welder, not a flux core for automotive sheet metal work! Miller, Lincoln, and Hobart all make pretty good home use/light end welders for a pretty decent price.

No problem on posting this stuff. That's what this site is all about. Not only is it an archive for me to reference down the road, chit chat with friends and make new ones, but also helps guys out knowing the anatomy of the cars, along with what it takes to get the job done.

Glad I could help-Prop
 
Propwash said:
LOL....Old Ford donor.. Be sure and get a MIG welder, not a flux core for automotive sheet metal work! Miller, Lincoln, and Hobart all make pretty good home use/light end welders for a pretty decent price.
Click to expand...

Looking at a Hobart MIG welder, based on price and info from others on this site. Got my wife saving her pennies for my Christmas present to me.
 
Well, after getting a few hours to work on the roadrunner, I finally got a chance to weld in the new rear frame rails. I used all the previously marked areas on the floor along with the drawings to get everything in place. I also used 3/4" oak dowels with the known old measurments to jig them in place before welding. Everything went into place fairly easy and most measurements after install pretty much came in exact. The worst offset i have is about 1/32" which can be manipulated when I install the crossmember and the trunk pan.

I started to jig up the right shackle mount when I noticed that the housing in the mount that the shackle bolt/bushings go through is set back a 1/2" further than the factory measurement. Anyone have any ideas if this will be an issue if that housing sits 1/2" further back than factory? Will the shackles still bolt in and fit properly? :confused:

The rest of the shackle mount ligns up pretty good everywhere else. If I do move the whole mount 1/2" forward to accomodate that offset, the rear of the mount will not mate up flush with the rear crossmember, so..............
kinda at a stand still I guess

fr1.jpg


fr2.jpg
 
:eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::eek:s_dancing2::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana::banana:


I really need one of those little drool smiles , but i cant find it
 
For the Love of God man!

It's the smiley Blitzkrieg!

:bunny: <----------Why do we have this pathetic rabbit as an option? look at it, just plain old dumb! I say we reject this fother mucker!:chain saw:
 
Looking good Prop! You really seem to have taken good care to keep the car straight while doing this. I'm just learning to weld. I went to a local steel supply and asked them to cut me some "weld coupons". 2x6 inch strips of 18, 20 and 22 gauge [the common stuff you will see in cars]. Used a punch at work to put a dozen 3/8 holes in some for plug practice. Done lap and butt welds. Practice, practice, practice baby! Are you using a "weld thru" primer on this?
 
Sure am Scott. Just going with the SEM in a can from the local paint supply store down the road. You are deffinitly taking the right approach on getting to know welding and your welder.
 
I have the SEM copperweld. Unfortunately, when I used it, my welds bounced off it like water on a hot griddle! Any tips?
 
I've heard a couple people say that about that stuff now. I use the zinc enriched formula and not the copper and really never had any problems. i take it there was a lot of popping, crackeling noises going on when you were trying to weld on it? what guage of base metal---wire speed---amps---where you running? I take it you were running a MIG welder?
 
18 base, 20 on top for the plug, .023 wire, gas, cheap welder set at 2 out of 4, wire at 6 out of 10.
 
How many PSI were you running on your gas scott? Also what did you have the ground attached to? Both?
 
Scott,
As a generic baseline for that guage of metal, I would run between 20-25 PSI out of a 75/25 mix tank. As far as your ground, if you are grounded to the 18ga on the bottom side, you need to start your arc on the 18ga and pull your puddle onto the 20ga. If you have a pretty hefty layer of the copper primer in between and not a real tight mate between the two, you might not enough ground to the 20ga to stike a productive arc.
Once a portion of a decent tac is made between the two, you should be good to go for starting on one side or the other.

If you are piloting out on the 18ga already, a couple things I would play around with is, first, the amps- If it's just cracking and popping, try turning up your amps a little at a time. Second, the wire speed. Don't force feed the puddle.

Its kind of tough to really dig deep not knowing the exact amps and wire speed (just selection numbers), but hopefully some of this may help. Who knows, could be a bunk can of primer as well
 
Hey prop, looking good brother!. I'm suprised to hear your having an issue with your parts. I don't know if the 1/2" will create any problems or not, but I would get on the horn on Monday with AMD and talk to them about it. If there is that big of a discrepincy, they need to know about it and tell you how to deal with it. I will assume that your rails aren't a 1/2" long, where did they come from?. I am making that assumption based on the fact that I know you would not have welded them in if they were sticking out a 1/2" past your measurements. In fact, I wouldn't be suprised if you had some how rigged one of those invisible fence systems to work with all your original measurements and when you are installing your new parts your just getting a shock until it's positioned properly!:rolling::rolling:.
Hey would you mind if I traded some parts to Bens69satellite for some Grey Poop-on in your thread???:grin:
 
I'll have to try that zinc formula weld through, because I am not so impressed with the copperweld, I just thought it was the nature of the beast, the way it affects the weld. It will be interesting to try them both and see if there is a diff.
 
I reference to your "popping" crank up your gas flow too. The smoke coming off the primer is a contaminant and screws up your "atmosphere" that your must have on your "puddle". I always wondered how these weldable primers are suppose to work. I like having you for my guinea pig :)
 
detmatt1 said:
Hey prop, looking good brother!. I'm suprised to hear your having an issue with your parts. I don't know if the 1/2" will create any problems or not, but I would get on the horn on Monday with AMD and talk to them about it. If there is that big of a discrepincy, they need to know about it and tell you how to deal with it. I will assume that your rails aren't a 1/2" long, where did they come from?. I am making that assumption based on the fact that I know you would not have welded them in if they were sticking out a 1/2" past your measurements. In fact, I wouldn't be suprised if you had some how rigged one of those invisible fence systems to work with all your original measurements and when you are installing your new parts your just getting a shock until it's positioned properly!:rolling::rolling:.
Hey would you mind if I traded some parts to Bens69satellite for some Grey Poop-on in your thread???:grin:
Click to expand...

:rolling:LOL Matt, hey, trade away...Maybe we should start a "culinary to automotive barter system thread?" Pork Chops for seat covers, or Herring for antenna's...


I got the 50 1/2" rear frame rail replacements from AutoBody Specialties. Don't know the MFG., but I know they were made here in the states. They are pretty close to the factory set, but by no means the same. There had to be a little "tweaking" to make them line up up/down, and left/right. The holes on the bottom side of the rails on the new vs. the old do not line up, so that through a bunch of my measurements out the window. :edgy: I was still able to have pretty good line up for total legnth and the rear height. The top of the rail outer lips are not the same, and I will have to weld in tabs for the shock crossmember to mount to. The beginning one inch of the new rails are crimped/flanged in, so there is some leeway fore and aft.

Invisible fences...LOL. I could almost see myself doing that. "Why the hell are you wearing a dog collar?" With Plumb bob's and Oak dowels, i'm starting to feel a bit Amish! Just call me "Jebadiah" from here on out:tiphat:

I wil definitly be giving AMD a call on this tomorrow. Wonder if this is a stamping flaw? I can't really imagine someone over at AMD made an executive decision Engineering wise to move the mount housing area back 1/2" because the Chrysler Egineering Department had it all wrong 40 some years ago. I'm sure this question has risen up before to AMD seeing this area is definitly a more popular cancer area.

By the way, your dad's Challenger looks real sharp...ahhhh someday. I'll have to follow along once you put the wheels in motion on your Challenger.

Take care
 
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