Family Tradition

[roadrunnerman]

hey will, that dash does look good.what did you use to clean all the years off of it?Also what kind of paint did you use. Hope you and yours have a merry christmas.

 

[dsd1967]

Hey Propwash, that dash turned out awesome! From the angle, I can't see if you have the road runner emblem above the glove box. Here's a picture of a 69 runner dash frame I have that has the emblem I'm talking about. Does yours have that?

 

[Propwash]

hey will, that dash does look good.what did you use to clean all the years off of it?Also what kind of paint did you use. Hope you and yours have a merry christmas.

Thanks Roger! I hope you and yours have a wonderful Christmas and New Years as well.

As far as the metal frame of the dash, I had the dash bead blasted. Then I sprayed it with a few coats of PPG epoxy primer. Then I sprayed a few coats followed by a dry coat (for texture) of PPG Omni Coat Satin single stage.

The padding was pretty dirty/sticky..A little bit of light solvent and good old Dawn Dish soap cleaned it right up

 

[Propwash]

Hey Propwash, that dash turned out awesome! From the angle, I can't see if you have the road runner emblem above the glove box. Here's a picture of a 69 runner dash frame I have that has the emblem I'm talking about. Does yours have that?

Thanks Dave and thanks again for the wonderful parts...I'm more than proud to put them on the car. As far as the dash emblem goes, I sure do have one, just haven't put it on yet.

I really appreciate you posting that pic! I actually needed a pic just like that to figure out how to place the new "Standing Bird" decal on the dash. Thanks..



I'm gonna post this in general discussion as well, but I wanted to pick your guys brains on something. Last time I moved the dash around, I heard something fall to the ground. Under further examination I noticed a chunk of what I believe to be a resistor, had fallen off (right side of the switch in the pic). It's a 3-speed wiper switch and needless to say they're not your everyday thing. 1st off i'm pretty nervous and not too optimistic this thing will even work anymore...Soooo, where do I find a new one? Anyone have any kind of spec info on these? Is this something I could find at Radio Shack?

 

[Ron 73]

Check this out prop, its a " REBUILT 3 SPEED WIPER SWITCH 68-69-70 ROADRUNNER/GTX/CHARGER/CORNET/SUPERBEE"

http://www.ebay.com/itm/REBUILT-3-SPEED-WIPER-SWITCH-68-69-70-ROADRUNNER-GTX-CHARGER-CORNET-SUPERBEE-/160704118400?hash=item256ab63e80&item=160704118400&pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr

I forgot to add, According to this guy he takes them apart, cleans and replaces parts, I was thinking maybe if you contacted him, maybe he would point you in the right direction for getting parts and rebuilding it.. I really don't know that much about EBAY, but maybe worth a shot.

 

[dsd1967]

Glad the picture could be of some help. To give you some precise dimensions, from the glove box opening to the bottom of the decal, it's 1/2" exact. From the edge of the emblem tangent to the helmet it's 7/16" .

 

[Propwash]

Check this out prop, its a " REBUILT 3 SPEED WIPER SWITCH 68-69-70 ROADRUNNER/GTX/CHARGER/CORNET/SUPERBEE"

I forgot to add, According to this guy he takes them apart, cleans and replaces parts, I was thinking maybe if you contacted him, maybe he would point you in the right direction for getting parts and rebuilding it.. I really don't know that much about EBAY, but maybe worth a shot.

Thanks a bunch Ron...Good idea!

Glad the picture could be of some help. To give you some precise dimensions, from the glove box opening to the bottom of the decal, it's 1/2" exact. From the edge of the emblem tangent to the helmet it's 7/16" .

Thank you sir! Much appreciated

 

[Propwash]

Well I hope everyone had a good Christmas and had some good R & R with friends and family...

I haven't made it to the shop yet this week, but I did dig up a couple pic's from about a month and a half ago of the old bird. just a couple shots of the roof dents filed, body hammered, leveled, filled, primed, blocked and primed, and roof transition done as well as the trunk lid primed, blocked and primed again. Can't see in the pic's but the fenders are also filed, skim coated, primed and blocked.

Got that pesky wiper switch figured out thanks to some wonderful folks on this site. I found the resistor at a local electrical supply store. The replacement is a 5 watt, 27 ohm resistor. I soldered on the new and covered the wire with liquid electrical tape to avoid any chance of metal to metal contact with the connectors/plugs.

Time to rip apart the old wiper motor

After a few minutes in the blast cabinet, alot of the grime/paint/gunk was gone. I did have to use a wire wheel on a drill as well as some virgin solvent to really clean it up.

I ohms checked the windings, changed the brushes, replaced the cloth insulated wiring, greased the gear teeth as well as the drive shaft, took steel wool to the rotor and internals.

All put back together! The gear case is die cast aluminum so I didn't paint that. The gear cover and moter end plate I painted with cast blast since it can rust, being steel. The motor housing I painted with Eastwood's Carb Renew II for that zinc/bronze look. For the factory sealant look I used Permetex high temp red to seal it all in. All in all it didn't turn out too bad.

Dash speaker replacement....The blown out crusty 4 watt factory speaker is being replaced with two Polk Audio 3.5" coaxial 105 watt speakers. Should sound a tad better...lol I bought the aluminum mount off someone on this site, but for the life of me I can remember who (it's been almost a year) I see them on ebay now as well.

I mounted the speakers on the underside so they don't make contact with the dash. I used 1/4" x 3/8" chrome spacers so the speaker cloth/rebound does not make contact with the aluminum plate. Don't need any distortion. Topped it off with some foam weatherstripping on the edges.

I already test fit this set up in the dash...It's tight with the backside of the heater controls, but it does fit. One issue I have is the magnets from the speakers pull the Tach needle toward them. I don't know if that will be eliminated once the car is running or I need to mask the tach from the magnatisim...Time will tell I guess

More work to come in the next few days!!

 

[Ron 73]

Good deal on your wiper motor Prop, I almost dug out a test i have hear, someone posted a long time ago to leave you to make sure it worked, sounds like you wont need it... Nice pics.. Good luck, enjoy!

 

[detmatt1]

Nice work Prop, you're a real pro!

 

[northerndave]

Nice stuff Will! Can I send you my wiper motor since you got it all figured out? :grin:

 

[TheSwede]

Nice work with the wiper motor, I will take some red high temp seal on mine too!

http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/attachment.php?attachmentid=41632&stc=1&d=1309988069

 

[Propwash]

Good deal on your wiper motor Prop, I almost dug out a test i have hear, someone posted a long time ago to leave you to make sure it worked, sounds like you wont need it... Nice pics.. Good luck, enjoy!

Thanks Ron..In theory everything should work being the mechanicals are intact, but we'll see soon enough

Nice work Prop, you're a real pro!

Thanks Buddy! Means a lot coming from a guy with such a high standard himself.

Nice stuff Will! Can I send you my wiper motor since you got it all figured out? :grin:

LOL!! Thanks Dave! You bet, send it on over. I'll take care of it for ya.

Nice work with the wiper motor, I will take some red high temp seal on mine too!

Thanks Swede...You did a top notch job on yours as well.


Hope you guys all had a good new year and 2012 brings you and yours wonderful things!

 

[70Fish]

Looking good, Prop. Did you think about cad plating the the motor housing rather than the carb finish?? Keep up the good work on bringing this RR back from the grave.

 

[northerndave]

Don't think I wont send it! Lol

 

[Propwash]

Looking good, Prop. Did you think about cad plating the the motor housing rather than the carb finish?? Keep up the good work on bringing this RR back from the grave.

Thanks! Didn't even think of it Fish. I'll have to do some digging and figure out what it takes to accomplish such a feat. Thanks for the tip

Don't think I wont send it! Lol

I'll keep the solder iron hot for ya Dave..Send it over anytime. It will just give me another excuse to hang out in the garage.



Gotta jump on installing the dash harness. Being the old harness was butchered to pieces (gee...surprise, surprise), the one being installed is a decent used one out of a 69' Coronet, Moparmagnate "Nipper" was kind enough to sell me...

Everything was going pretty smooth until I ran into a couple snags...:black_eye:

First off, right near the 3-speed wiper switch and wash button I have three brown wires. One wire seems a bit lighter in shade than the others. Another has a slot in the front of the connector. There is a fourth loose brown wire with a grey stripe that I already figured out it goes to the very bottom slot on the wiper switch. My factory wiring diagram just labels brown on all these wires and the reference pics I took before I ripped it all apart earlier this year are a bit too dark to show what's what. Anybody have any idea how these go?

Another question is the wire/plug for the ignition switch light. What does it plug into? I couldn' t find a plug on the old harness where it would plug in, but that thing was so sawed up god knows when and if it might have been hacked off....

One more question on the wiring. On the left side of the dash, I have a two prong plug with a yellow and a yellow w/black strip coming into it. Looks like it jumps off the dimmer switch wiring. The old harness had this plug, but it was secured tight against the harness with the cloth tape. Kinda like it was never used originally with my car, but that's not the case with this new harness. Looking at the wiring diagram, I'm kinda thinking its for a "lights left on buzzer". Can anyone confirm this?

I appreciate any help I can get fella's

 

[70Fish]

Prop, this is a common problem that I also ran into! The brown wire with the slot in the connector should go on the wiper switch male end with the matching prong on it. By prong, it's a raised area meant specifically for that female end with the relief cut in it. The other 2 brown ones should go to the washer switch.

Here's a crappy pic I took of my wiring harness after installed it in the dash frame. I've checked that it all works so I know it's right.

If you want to do the wiper motor plating "in house", this might work for ya -
http://www.eastwood.com/new-golden-cad-system-w-diamond-clear.html

 

[Capsule]

Hey Fish70

This looks to be a really cool car when done!
Regarding your speakers in the dash, I just wanted to give you my two cent; You need to fill the gaps between the speaker driver and the aluminium adapter. It needs to be air tight if you want any bass and low midrange sounding from them. Also the gap between the aluminium adapter and the dash needs to be air tight. Otherwise the speakers will cancel their own sound as they cannot produce any preassure!

Capsule

 

[rrTor-Red]

Prop:

I've seen that speaker mount you have. I need one as well but cant remember where I saw one for sale. I think its a member somewhere.

 

[Propwash]

Prop, this is a common problem that I also ran into! The brown wire with the slot in the connector should go on the wiper switch male end with the matching prong on it. By prong, it's a raised area meant specifically for that female end with the relief cut in it. The other 2 brown ones should go to the washer switch.

Here's a crappy pic I took of my wiring harness after installed it in the dash frame. I've checked that it all works so I know it's right.

If you want to do the wiper motor plating "in house", this might work for ya -
http://www.eastwood.com/new-golden-cad-system-w-diamond-clear.html

Thanks for all the helpful info Fish! Much appreciated

Hey Fish70

This looks to be a really cool car when done!
Regarding your speakers in the dash, I just wanted to give you my two cent; You need to fill the gaps between the speaker driver and the aluminium adapter. It needs to be air tight if you want any bass and low midrange sounding from them. Also the gap between the aluminium adapter and the dash needs to be air tight. Otherwise the speakers will cancel their own sound as they cannot produce any preassure!

Capsule

Thanks for the advice Capsule. I'm by no means an audio expert so I appreciate your info.