• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Firecore distributor ( not RTR )

I haven't found the instructions sheet with the Mopar Performance brand on top, but Mallory. IT IS the same sheet, just that the MP instruction sheet get extra springs to add an extra curve and they added a small decal on instruction sheet down the springs list available to show what the extra springs set makes on curve

20180210_181510-jpg.jpg
 
Last edited:
8BA72510-3C63-4FF0-AF34-40BAF33874FE.jpeg
05E75754-72CB-4425-B444-0799A2F6FD46.jpeg
Your saying the firecore dist. Needs no Summit Ext. box? Here is what I have from previous owner. If I can eliminate this box I will.
 
That's not an RTR distributor, so needs an external ign box, whichever you choose or got, so need the one is on car at this moment
 
Want to replace this distributor & eliminate MSD box to clean up engine bay. Also tighten up ignition wires. I got rid of hooker long tubes replaced with H.P.manifolds, now I’m wondering if I need heat shields on manifolds to protect wires?
 
I would think you should use the factory manifold gear shields
Want to replace this distributor & eliminate MSD box to clean up engine bay. Also tighten up ignition wires. I got rid of hooker long tubes replaced with H.P.manifolds, now I’m wondering if I need heat shields on manifolds to protect wires?
 
I’m looking at a plug & play MSD distributor. If I get one I will sell this distributor & box. I have the original packaging it came in.....
 
The fire core distributor is bolt in and go it has mech adjustments inside but loosening the two phillip screws some then adjusting the counter weights all without taking it out of the motor. for me this is the best distributor I have ever used. is it RTR absolutely it is the only thing I had to do was cut of and re spice a new connector to use with my summit 6al box. had I used the mopar orange box for example it would plug right in.
Reviving this thread for a quick clarification - I have been running the Firecore regular non-RTR distributor for a few years and have no complaints. The times I have adjusted the internal mechanical timing slot position by loosening the philips screws, I have removed the entire distributor to do so on the work bench. Can you please describe how you are able to do this easily without removing the distributor from the motor?

The only other thing I wish is that the 2 internal slot adjustment screws were either hex cap screws or 6 or 8 point star screws. It's easy to round out the regular philips screw. Maybe I can find a better type that fits...
 
Easy

Once you remove the dist cap and take rotor off shaft

Rotate engine with starter click until large hole in advance plate exposes your adjustment screw
Loosen slightly

Now rotate engine again to expose other screw thru hole in plate
Loosen slightly

You can see metal tab s exposed in each slot behind each screw that you just loosened
Move those tabs within the slots to your desired location or advance

Tighten screws

Of course it’s trial and error
Yes they make plastic number degree adjusters

I used drill bits

Honestly , it really is a piece of cake once you see what’s going on
 
What I wrote down years ago
Drill bits

20 degrees of mechanical advance is .185
18 degrees of mechanical advance is .165
16 degrees of mechanical advance is .150
14 degrees of mechanical advance is .130
 
Easy

Once you remove the dist cap and take rotor off shaft

Rotate engine with starter click until large hole in advance plate exposes your adjustment screw
Loosen slightly

Now rotate engine again to expose other screw thru hole in plate
Loosen slightly

You can see metal tab s exposed in each slot behind each screw that you just loosened
Move those tabs within the slots to your desired location or advance

Tighten screws

Of course it’s trial and error
Yes they make plastic number degree adjusters

I used drill bits

Honestly , it really is a piece of cake once you see what’s going on
I didn't think about the starter bump, thanks. I used the red plastic mallory keys and they are not exact and will have to try your method to see if I can fit those in there. Drill bits also a good idea. I'm new to mopars as of 2010 and just get by on my own, but glad I don't have to weld, drill and file like the old school way.
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top