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Flowkooler or Edelbrock water pump?

On my small block stroker Dart, I had a Real Gasket silicone gasket at the thermostat housing, never had a problem with it, until I installed the Flowkooler pump. It blew the gasket out two times in a row. Then went to an o-ringed thermostat housing, problem solved. Just saying that I think that the Flowkooler pump may move more water. It's what I will use from here on out.
 
This spring, I switched from the stock water pump to the Flowkooler with a Stewart 180 degree thermostat on my 440 which has always had a tendency to heat up in traffic. It gets pretty hot here in Nebraska during the summer but to my delight the motor never got over 205
degrees....which happened on a 95 degree day during a slooow moving cruise night. Cooled right down once I got rolling again.
I'm a believer! :thumbsup:
 
I have always just purchased an over the counter parts store replacement water pump for an A/C car. Never any over heating issues.
 
Does anybody know of the Flowkooler hits the housing if you put it in without a gasket? That used to be the big selling point on the edelbrock. Gets to bobs point on cavitation.
 
Does anybody know of the Flowkooler hits the housing if you put it in without a gasket? That used to be the big selling point on the edelbrock. Gets to bobs point on cavitation.
I checked my flow cooler and tuff stuff pump in a 67 pump housing and neither had impeller contact without a gasket.
 
Keeping it simple. My car ran hot when idling with a stock pump. Installed a Flowkooler pump, doesn’t run hot now. Don’t know why, don’t care.
 
Perhaps you should go back to school and learn a few fundamental aspects of physics and thermodynamics.....or.....just continue to plod along......hoping for the best outcome.....
BOB RENTON
Do you know how many Btu's of heat is in the "about 5°F degrees" you noted? The type of coolant is being used? What is the temperature of the coolant entering the engine and existing the engine? That determines the amount of heat the coolant absorbed and that determines the reject heat that needs to be eliminated. The important factor is the AMOUNT of heat, in Btu's, that determines the volume of coolant, in terms of GPM @ at worst case conditions......high ambient and pump's minimum RPM ( low velocity). BT.W.....the anti cavitation device is actually the pump housing and the CLOSER (within 0.015") the impeller is to the housing, the less possibility of cavitation will occur, especially at high pump RPM.....just thought you might like to know......BOB RENTON
Bob, why would he (or anyone else on here for that matter, except you of course) give a rat's *** about how many Btu's and all the rest of it?
There's probably 2 or 3 choices (design wise) of waterpunp available, he chose one, it worked, he's passed on that information to help others.
Why try to belittle his choice?

If the water pump on your beloved car ever shits itself what are you going do? Buy a new one and get your car on the road again, or take a copy of Gould's Punp Manual and start pulling yourself off?

On second thoughts don't answer that one.
 
Bob, why would he (or anyone else on here for that matter, except you of course) give a rat's *** about how many Btu's and all the rest of it?
There's probably 2 or 3 choices (design wise) of waterpunp available, he chose one, it worked, he's passed on that information to help others.
Why try to belittle his choice?

If the water pump on your beloved car ever shits itself what are you going do? Buy a new one and get your car on the road again, or take a copy of Gould's Punp Manual and start pulling yourself off?

On second thoughts don't answer that one.
As much as I hated to do it, I had to put him on ignore a while back. Such a shame, too.
The fella is obviously a wealth of information that he could choose to share and be an asset to the forum.
That he instead decides to belittle, insult and otherwise engage in negative, unproductive posts is a pity.
"If only he would choose to use his powers for good, not evil..."
 
Bob, why would he (or anyone else on here for that matter, except you of course) give a rat's *** about how many Btu's and all the rest of it?
There's probably 2 or 3 choices (design wise) of waterpunp available, he chose one, it worked, he's passed on that information to help others.
Why try to belittle his choice?

If the water pump on your beloved car ever shits itself what are you going do? Buy a new one and get your car on the road again, or take a copy of Gould's Punp Manual and start pulling yourself off?

On second thoughts don't answer that one.
As much as I hated to do it, I had to put him on ignore a while back. Such a shame, too.
The fella is obviously a wealth of information that he could choose to share and be an asset to the forum.
That he instead decides to belittle, insult and otherwise engage in negative, unproductive posts is a pity.
"If only he would choose to use his powers for good, not evil..."
This has gotten to be a common occurrence with Bobby trolling me and leaving the exact same kind of remarks to my posts. I have been on this site for 15 1/2 years now and feel as though I can get along with just about anybody. Well, I was proven wrong and finally had to figure out how to put someone on the ignore list. This world is to short to have to deal with asshats like him.
 
You know, I pointed out he was posting useless stuff about a month ago and he has since been posting some useful stuff. I was pretty surprised as usually people sully up and double down. Figured I’d give it a go anyway. Tried to avoid saying nasty for nasty and focused on the issue at hand. It worked.
 
Something changed with Bob about 6-8 months ago. I've always enjoyed his "technical" type posts but recently he's turned nasty, and actually started following members around on here trolling them.

I don't know what's happened to him and usually I would reach out to someone privately to ask them. That's would I should have done yesterday instead of posting what I did.

Bob, if you're there, we liked the old you. Bring him back.
 
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