Fluctuating ammeter with turn signal and brake operation.

[hunt2elk]

Replace the amp meter with a voltage meter or by pass the system.... go to mad electrical on the web.... the amp meter system is #1 fire starter in mopar stuff. The operation of the turn signal showing a huge movement on the meter = the sodder has come loose and any fiddling you do will only loosen it up more.... you can have the amp gauge 're sodderd but it's still a flawed system that should be eliminated...

Shannon @ Redline redid the amp gauge when restoring the rest of the dash. He added more solder and told me it was alot better than when new. Although he does convert many ammeters to volt meters, he assured me I would be fine with all new wiring and nothing added to the stock system (like a high amp stereo). I have read the mad electrical upgrade, and maybe will consider it in the future if I can't figure this out.

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What are your measure on the charging side? The reason I asked with signal on & pulsating ammeter( Putting another load on system)...to help narrow down whether you had a charging system problem.

Also the main wiring harass splice gives power to Ignition switch, Head lights, dimmer switch, fuse box....the problem could lie there......

I'm out of town for a few days so wont be able to take any readings till I get back. I thought about that splice also, but the ammeter doesn't bounce when the headlights or blower fan is turned on. It seems to only be the directional, brake, and reverse light circuit. What/where would be the common factor with these circuits that I am missing? Turn signal switch? That is new also and anytime I've seen that fail, something doesn't light up.

 

[sleepar]

You can do the upgrades and be done with it. But you're problem most likely is in the splice like mentioned above or in the bulkhead connector. What's nice about starting out fresh is you don't risk burning out new parts picking away part by part...

 

[Nacho-RT74]

you can get a winding or diode damaged on alt...

but on stock alts some fluctuation is pretty much normal

otherwise, here is how they work:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0/all.html

 

[sleepar]

I have read up on 'Nacho' s posts and it takes me some time but I consider him one of the Mopar God's and Venezuela is a rough sort of country in places but on the list to go and see and cruise around on leaded super under a dollar a gallon. I'll bring my hook machete....

 

[sleepar]

On you tube... MTSC- 1975, volume ... 75-3 servicing the 100 amp system.. they add an additional ground to the body of the alternator.... I'm getting ready for my electrical up grade and need to get it straight and these videos help...
1966 66-11 alternator and regulators ... 5*

 

[440+6]

Mine jumps every time I turn on a load.
When the car is off it's centered, when running it's 1/8 inch to charge side all the time, turn on a load and it will drop a little to discharge and immediately come back to charge side.
All loads make it do this, headlights will make it go farther than turn signals (bigger load), my car has been acting exactly the same for the 35 years that I've owned it and all wiring is original.
If it goes to the discharge side and stays there with the engine running I would be worried.

 

[hunt2elk]

You can do the upgrades and be done with it. But you're problem most likely is in the splice like mentioned above or in the bulkhead connector.

My concern is that if I do the upgrade and there is actually a problem in the splice area, it will still be in the circuit. I need to rule out that possibility first.

 

[Dennis H]

you can get a winding or diode damaged on alt...

but on stock alts some fluctuation is pretty much normal

otherwise, here is how they work:

http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0/all.html

Normal = characteristic.

 

[sleepar]

My concern is that if I do the upgrade and there is actually a problem in the splice area, it will still be in the circuit. I need to rule out that possibility first.

Exactly... work through the entire system then go over it again just to make sure... my car had a small but steady drain before I tore into it.... I may never find it because it's all getting redone... watch the mopartv on u tube....

 

[hunt2elk]

We made a short video of the bouncing ammeter and I would appreciate your opinions. I tested the battery voltage and have 14.56 at idle and 2500 rpm. It seems to happen when any electrical switch is made. I have around 250 miles on the car and the gauge is rock steady when idling or cruising and no loads applied. I have put on another known good alternator and another new electronic regulator as well as an original mechanical regulator with no changes.

[video=youtube_share;lEaDB2av5X4]http://youtu.be/lEaDB2av5X4[/video]

 

[bm02tj]

It looks to be the gauge try a know load with the car off and see what the gauge reads then attach a know load to the battery with the car running and see what the gauge reads one will show neg and the other pos

 

[hunt2elk]

It looks to be the gauge try a know load with the car off and see what the gauge reads then attach a know load to the battery with the car running and see what the gauge reads one will show neg and the other pos

Any ideas on what I could use for a test load?

 

[Pops1967GTX]

simple load test...
Leave the lights on for 10 to 15 minutes with the engine off. Start the engine & the gauge should show a discharge, then move to a recharging indication to the right as it increases amps output to recharge the battery.


I have been looking for any info on calibrating the ammeter.....Not much information found.I have been told by a resto of dash cluster...If the needle moves & points far to the left & right, then the magnet in the ammeter is bad & you need a new ammeter.



If you can get a clap on ammeter gauge , place on alternator wire for a reading...Also to place an extra ground at the dash gauge cluster......

 

[440+6]

I have never seen that kind of wild movement, it seems to be working correctly just very exaggerated movement.
Not sure but I think the gauge might be bad.

 

[CHARGERSTEVEN]

Pops has hit your answer.try grounding out your gauge with a wire to a good ground. You should be able to reach it without removing the dash n try the same load test.something is not grounding properly.as the heater is not part off the lite circuit i would say it is your gauge or dash not getting a good ground oh buy the way when you going to show a video of that mopar performing for every ones reference. Lol n good luck

 

[bm02tj]

Pops has hit your answer.try grounding out your gauge with a wire to a good ground. You should be able to reach it without removing the dash n try the same load test.something is not grounding properly.as the heater is not part off the lite circuit i would say it is your gauge or dash not getting a good ground oh buy the way when you going to show a video of that mopar performing for every ones reference. Lol n good luck

The ammeter does not need a ground donot ground it

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To get a know load add up the wattage of your lights you can turn on and divide by the voltage with car not running the gauge should show that amperage

 

[hunt2elk]

If you can get a clap on ammeter gauge , place on alternator wire for a reading...Also to place an extra ground at the dash gauge cluster......

I have several clamp on amp meters, but they are only for ac. Doesn't dc current have to be measured with an inline meter?

 

[66chargerpat]

Unhook the amp gauge and bolt the red and black wires to each other, tape the crap out of it. Then get a good volt meter. The volt meter will move too. The voltage regulators are slow to respond, so the load change pulls the gauge down till the reg. can change the output of the alt.

 

[hunt2elk]

I have never seen that kind of wild movement, it seems to be working correctly just very exaggerated movement.
Not sure but I think the gauge might be bad.

I sure am hoping that is the problem.

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To get a know load add up the wattage of your lights you can turn on and divide by the voltage with car not running the gauge should show that amperage

I will try that this weekend.

 

[Pops1967GTX]

The ammeter does not need a ground donot ground it

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To get a know load add up the wattage of your lights you can turn on and divide by the voltage with car not running the gauge should show that amperage

I did not mean to ground the ammeter...The dash cluster is grounded...making sure of ground for cluster...


http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_8/4.html


http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/worksheets/meters2.html

Very good read & information.....
http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads...ain=7581364&Words=+Stroker&topic=&Search=true