hunt2elk
Well-Known Member
I talked to Redline this afternoon. They wanted me to send the video to them to see what it is doing. Shannon will call me next week after viewing it. In the meantime keep sending me your ideas.
Fluctuating ammeter with turn signal and brake operation.
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MykeNytemare
Well-Known Member
Anything ever come of this? My 67 kind of does the same thing when brakes or blinkers are used.
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Pretty common on the weak Mopar electrical system. Run a 10 ga. wire from the alt. to the battery should fix it.
hunt2elk
Well-Known Member
Shannon had me do a bunch of testing and everything checked out ok. His guess is that it is a overly sensitive ammeter and will be fine. He said he has seen some fluctuation on different gauges, but none as bad as mine. They calibrate all the other gauges, but have no way to calibrate ammeters. So all they do is reface them and resolder the studs. I am toying with the idea of taking it apart this winter and either try a different ammeter, or replace it with a converted volt meter and do the MAD bypass. I'm having a hard time thinking about cutting up my new M&H harness' and drilling a hole in the firewall though.
mopar 3 B
Well-Known Member
If you decide to put in the volt meter replacement put both amp meter wires on the positive volt meter stud and run new negative stud wire to ground. No need to run new wires threw firewall.
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Yep, no need to cut your new harness. Done it this way for years. Never a problem.
hunt2elk
Well-Known Member
That sounds like a pretty simple way to do it. Maybe going that route along with running a new 10 gauge wire from the alt. to starter relay will be as far as I go on this car. There is so much talk about bypassing the bulkhead connector spade connectors, but on this car everything is brand new and I have no additional current draws.
My 64 was doing the same thing I put in a new high out put Alternator and the problem went away.
I told the same problem issue story to a vendor at the York Street rod meet last year. Bought one of his alternators and no more problems.
I did have to run a jump wire to make it work properly, but that was in the install directions.
I told the same problem issue story to a vendor at the York Street rod meet last year. Bought one of his alternators and no more problems.
I did have to run a jump wire to make it work properly, but that was in the install directions.
Top End Dean
New Member
Shannon is correct "hunt2elk" you have a very sensitive ammeter. However, there is one thing no one else here has questioned, and that is "what size pulley do you have on your alternator?" MANY Mopars have issues at idle because they are running too large a pulley on the alternator and subsequently the alternator is not turning fast enough at idle for the alternator to generate sufficient output. I noticed in your video there is a slight change in the needle movement as the rpm is increased. With the rpm increased it looks pretty normal for a Charger Ralley dash ammeter. This "Big" pulley problem has been happening almost since these cars were new. The alternator goes bad and the owner goes to the local parts store and exchanges the OEM alternator for a rebuilt alternator. The pulleys aren't the same size and most times they have two grooves but "The book" shows it to be the right one. And Waa Laa another Mopar with "A bad electrical system" courtesy of the parts stores trying to save money by only stocking the larger pulley Chrysler alternator. Hope this helps! :jerk:
hunt2elk
Well-Known Member
Forgot all about this thread. The car is running great with no issues whatsoever, so I am convinced it is just a sensitive meter. I did have the 37 amp alt rebuilt again, this time with a 60 amp stator. I am fairly positive I have the correct small pulley also. Still bounces around though and drives me nuts. I have decided to pull the cluster this winter and send it back to Redline. They will replace the ammeter with a voltmeter with their conversion. Shannon powers the new meter through the circuit board so there is no new wiring needed for it. The face will get new screening that says volts instead of amps. I will run a new #10 with fusible link from the starter relay to the alt, and then decide if I want to bypass the bulkhead connector at that time.
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