For Dodge Dakota Owners Having Charging Problems

[Dibbons]

Our 1996 Dodge Dakota (last year of the first generation), purchased new and still going, has had the ECU replaced twice already when it would be running fine and just quit. Then run fine again, and quit. Repeat.

Now the alternator charges and quits. Then it charges again, then quits. Repeat.

Unfortunately, in their great wisdom, Chrysler decided to incorporate the voltage regulator inside the ECU as time marched on. Just tested the alternator output by grounded one field connection and applying battery voltage to the other connection momentarily. What do you know? Sixteen Volts!

There is a way to adapt a firewall voltage regulator in order to bypass the one inside the ECU, which is my current plan to fix the problem. A company makes a kit (with instructions) to make this dream a reality. For your information:

How to test your alternator on the vehicle:
To check to see if your alternator is working, unplug or remove the two field wires from the back of the alternator. Then ground one of the field terminals on the alternator and jumper the other field terminal to the positive battery post on the back of the alternator. It does not matter which terminal is grounded and which one get positive power. When you connect the ground and positive wires to the field terminals you will get a small spark, this is normal. This is by-passing the voltage control and will cause your alternator to run full blast, if it is working. Put a multi-meter on your battery and run your engine on high idle, do not allow your alternator to charge the battery much over 16 volts. If you find that your alternator is charging when you do this procedure, but does not charge when you connect it back to the computer, this kit will get your alternator working and charging at the proper voltage. The voltage regulator is preset at 14.5 volts. If you want to adjust the voltage regulator you use the screw on the back, but be sure the metal case of the voltage regulator is grounded while you adjust it.

product:
https://store.alternatorparts.com/hd-external-voltage-regulator-conversion-kit.aspx

 

[BeepBeepRR]

Funny they look to the past to fix the future. I bet that's nothing more than an old school voltage regulator. But if it works it works.

 

[Dibbons]

They offer three voltage regulators: one factory style, one with voltage adjusting screw on back side, one vented.

 

[Slap Stick]

But what is causing regulators to go bad?

 

[Dibbons]

The ECU gets old and fails, computer age built-in obsolescence. Could be the voltage regulator circuit, could be another circuit, always something ready to fry.

 

[Slap Stick]

I'm on my 2nd 92 Dakota, one had 167k and the present one 143 k and no charging problems whatsoever.
For 2 vregs to go bad on the same truck says to me there may be some ground problems. Or the connector and wires at the ECU are bad.

 

[Dibbons]

I've got 290,000 miles on my '96. I don't doubt there are grounding problems. For example, turn on my parking lights and the green arrow on the dash for the left turn signal comes on.

I did not have two voltage regulars go out, just this one time. The other ECU problems were intermittent misfires and stalling.

 

[Cranky]

I don't doubt there are grounding problems. For example, turn on my parking lights and the green arrow on the dash for the left turn signal comes on./

Yup, that's a sign right there but it could be as simple as a bulb not making good contact. My 95 was doing that and just happened to be walking by it one day with a rubber mallet in my hand and I whacked bumper. It hasn't done that since lol

 

[Dibbons]

My left front turn signal is not working, going to check the bulb tomorrow morning.

Tonight finished installing the new "old" electronic voltage regulator on the firewall to replace the built-in regulator in the ECU. I could not get the conversion kit shipped to Mexico, but I did find Amazon would ship me the pigtail for the voltage regulator connection.

So I made up my own wiring harness and now have a charging rate of 14.35 volts. As a "bonus" I noticed the electric windows no longer drag on the way up. Woohoo! Keeping my fingers crossed the repair last forever and a day.

 

[Slap Stick]

Good news! Glad you got it fixed.

 

[YY1]

RE: front turn signals.

Not sure if yours are the same as my 2000, but I've had chronic issues with the sockets.

They let the bulb be pushed too far in and loose connection.
Pull them out a bit and they start working.
Fidldy to get them in the sweet spot.

I've had to replace both of mine to correct the problem.
I just hope the u-pull OEM replacements last a while.