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For the Love for my Father, My 69 GTX Restoration

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LOL don't get the better half upset! I kinda remember them going up over the threads also.
 
Old bee,

Here are the pics of the cotter pins installed....The ones I have seen on survivors and from the X were all done this way.
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One of the few parts I have not been able to acquire is an NOS fan belt.....I have a Quanta repro one shown in the first pic but will not use it. They are not made of the correct material and is basically a thick rubber band. They flip on the pulleys and at certain RPM's your temp gauge will skyrocket, lol...DO NOT USE THESE!

I was able to acquire an older no longer available Mopar belt. These are even hard to find and are very good belts....
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My original 7 blade fan had some ding and scratches and had to be replaced. Sylvain G...up in Canada sold me this beauty painted and stamped.
https://sylvainmopar.com Super nice guy and great parts and stamps....


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Pitnam and Idler arms....

Idler arm is an original used part. I searched through many and I found 2 and this is the better of the 2. They have very distinct features and the most noticeable is the 2 bumps. Next is the ribs that run down the side. Originals did not have grease fittings on the k frame end nor the center link end. On the center link end the top has a dimple in the center.

New grease cup has the PN and logo on it...From Frank Badlason they come as a full kit of grease cups...

Pitnam arm was a debacle....These are rare to find and my original one was perfect. So when I sent my unit to steer and gear I specifically put in the letter several things and one was to reuse my original pitman arm. Good used ones can fetch up to 300 bones to the right buyer. So after some time my rebuilt manual box came back and low and behold guess what was not there? My original pitman arm but a nice Chinese junk one was in the box. So without wasting time I called them up and told them I had pictures of my unit with the arm packaged to them. I also included a letter, which I had a copy of stating what I said earlier. On top of that I marked it as well with a punch. My exact words I want a tracking number by tomorrow with my arm with the casting number in the pic below back to me, period! Phone call later and Wallah they found it and got a tracking number.

These bring good money so word to the wise take pictures, provide letters and make marks...
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Original center was cleaned up and treated...

Remnant of black paint on the drivers side near the pitman arm..
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Tie rods and sleeves. The original sleeves were degreased and coated with boeshield. Thats is the original factory finish. Most of the nuts have the red locking material in place and is a key feature of original nuts. I will take a better pic of that tomorrow...

The tie rod end are the correct castings numbers. The originals were shot and NOS forget it. So I had to find four good used ones....I probably searched through a 100 or more, no kidding but I did acquire 4 perfect ones...

The breakaway zero fittings came from Frank Badalson

2072434 is the inner
2835885 is the outer

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Tie rods, idler, pitman arm and centerlink installed.....Getting excited because I am getting close to work on the interior!
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Reverse light/NS harness is a new unit with an ECS part number tag placed on it. My original worked but was in sad shape...
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I couldn't resist planting it on all fours.....With no torsion adjustment it looks like a funny car but that will be dealt with when the X gets an alignment.

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The wifeee has me doing the wife tied.e weekend....lol

So when I get a chance I will post some current progress pics showing the bent cotter pins....I have researched survivors through the years and my own survivors, look at my previous suspension pics on the X prior to restoration...all cotter pins are natural steel and bent up and over the ball joint studs. Also think about time which is faster on the line bend or the stud or separate and bend the two around?
I worked the summer of 78 with my Uncle who was a front end mechanic at Jack Clark Dodge. Frank always bent the long side of the cotter pins over the studs leaving the short side straight like the unrestored photo above.
 
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I worked the summer of 78 with my Uncle who was a front end mechanic at Jack Clark Dodge. Frank always bent the cotter pins over the studs.
Same way the factory did...It was easy, effective and quick....Also easier to remove if needed...
 
More suspension pics....

The last pic shows the correct tie rod sleeve clamp nuts. The originals have a red locking material in the nut.

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Finally, got a chance to fill the trans...This is the fluid recommended by Brewers to use.........I have never experienced any problems using this fluid in other builds.

Did a little moving today and gearing up to start on the interior...Hooked up the wire harnesses in the engine bay, hooked up the throttle cable. Basically, a bunch of odds and ends...Next on the agenda is the front and rear bumpers/bumper guards....Then comes the interior...

I am so ecstatic!

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New main engine harness, the original had seen better days. The harness tags are from ECS and are great quality tags. The fusible links are comparing a real deal NOS versus the reproduction. Lots of differences between the two. I will let the pictures speak for me...
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Ballist resistor brackets I am comparing is a new reproduction versus an original. The reproduction is the shiny CAD one(right side). The part numbers are the same but the fonts are different...
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Without further ado...Here are the infamous adjuster plugs....

The NOS plastic ones correct for a 69 are on the left

The NOS ones in the box are the late 70's rubber plugs which are incorrect for 64-74
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