Links no worky, for me anyway
Looks like a pretty good set up. I had the SPC and sent them back. I went with the Qa1 Uppers and lowers, Qa1 strut rods. 11/16 tie rods with Qa1 adjusters and Borgeson Steering. I live in the hills and mountains also with crooked roads so I definitely kept the Sway arm. Did you really like that Qa1 K-frame? I did not like it and sent it back to Summit. After I sent it back I called them and told them they needed to update that 20+year old K-frame and tried to explain to them what would make it better. They just told me sorry but I could buy their coil over set up lol That’s a big No.I like & have used Capps Automotive/MoPar Performance (were made for MP)
&the later QA1 (who bought out Capps, still use their designs it appears)
on several different builds
View attachment 1459637
Now
I've used SPC UCAs double adjustable on the car,
come with HD high angle ball-joints installed
way more range of travel, free travel, no binding than any of the OE stuff
going to use them again
View attachment 1459627
QA1 LCAs with the sway-bar tabs for street driving, car handles great
I remove swaybar links for drags
View attachment 1459625
Have used (old Capps Automotive from Mancini)
now QA1 dynamic adj. alum. struts, that really frees up the front end
View attachment 1459626
I have also used QA1 tubular K-Member, still using the factory style torsion bars
way more room for oil pans & some headers,
the limiting factor in mine, for headers is the
*($1,000) Unisteer rack & pinion,
you can get bolt in headers even still
from $700-ish TTI 383-178c on my 479cid street beast,
they have it in a 2" not sure it will clear
In my new/current project,
I am making custom step headers
1-7/8"-2" with Flowmasters Scavenger 4-2-1 collectors/12" extensions
maybe even some cut-outs
View attachment 1459624
Some bump steer corrections, alum-sleave tierod & ends & spacers etc.,
recommended by fellow member Charlie @cdr
View attachment 1459628
* as mentioned above
I also have used a power steering Unisteer bolt in Rack & Pinion
I live in the stick windy *** mountain roads
handles like a dream, albeit pricey & needed to correct some bump steer
View attachment 1459646
I used the Capps Automotive stuff
On the SPC that’s exactly what I didnt like. I didnt realize how phony (small) those damn bolts were. So I sent them back. I drive the crap out of my cars and I could just imagine hitting one of these huge *** potholes here and one of those small bolts breaking. Maybe, probably wrong but I don’t like them and won’t Chance it. The K-Frame you may like cause you don’t run a sway arm but for the guys do run a K-frame that was the poorest design I’ve ever seen how it mounts to the K-frame and my 1 1/8 sway arm wouldn’t go through it either. My Borgeson box wouldn’t mount to it correctly either. I would have had the shim the crap out of it to make it work. So I sent the damn thing back. I may have one my high tech welding buddies just make me my own tubular K-Frame.
It’s all good stuff to read but there’s no decisions to be made here. I bought my RMS in 2006 so it’s bought and paid for. It works fine for what I do. I built my own version of it in 2019 for my Superbird to make some changes that seem to suit my cars better. That k-member is currently under my 70RR and performs well. I am reworking the original RMS K-member to be an even better version and this time, much lighter using all chromoly. I’m extending the shock mounts so a longer shock can be used and adding drop spindles so the car can be low even with the 17” front wheels. The more I learn, the better my skills and the more improvements I can incorporate into this setup. I made my original decision in 2006 and I think my path forward is already determined. I just thought this thread would make for good conversation.
Got QA1, 68 GTX. Hemi going in. Q fir you, can the Hemi go in with headers bolted on? Looks near impossible to work on the flange studs nuts nuts after installing. Advice please.
If it's going in from the bottom, yes.... From the top? No..
@BudnicksI voted for QA1,
of what I've used & installed I like them the best
had the best results
you can piecemeal them 1 part at a time if need be
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Different strokes for different folks, IMHFO
some will never do other than OE stock
& the opinions are like ********, everyone has one
ask 10 people,
you'll probably get 10 different answers/opinions
Some of the other brands, I haven't used myself on my own cars
but have seen or helped people install, driven on them too
IMO some have pluses & some have negatives
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Even Magnum Force Racing stuff, have had some good stuff
no matter the -www- trolls say
"negative crap/most is second hand re-posting/repeating crap/info-****"
some may spew/repeat over & over again
I haven't used any MFR stuff in well over a decade, not sure now
I know quite a few people that, had used them, trouble-free & loved them...
coil over especially not for every build
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Is RMS even still in business ?
I could be wrong, but I thought it was long gone, a while back,
or maybe it was just bought out or new owners/mngt ?
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Almost any of them were better & lighter than most all the OE stuff
especially after you weld on them & add metal, bracing
or cut the **** out of them etc.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
All QA1 tubular with the heavier SPC UCAs
the tubular K-member, tubular QA1 LCAs,
QA1 Dyn. Adj. Strut rods,
was 38#s total (weighed in boxes, add. nominal weight)
I didn't weigh the stock OE stuff, I took off
I do know QA1 etc., it's considerably lighter/stronger
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Also I added;
I know the bolt-in Unisteer Power Rack
(rear steer, reverse rotation, like OE, behind the centerline of the spindle)
is was way lighter than all the OE stuff
Power steering box, heavy cast iron, drag link, tierods/sleaves,
the pitman arm, Heavy OE PS box, OE pump brackets/hoses,
steel pulleys etc.
It's not a necessity, but I like it, for my purposes...
But for dedicated real racecars for 'drag racing use only'
I think I'd go to a front-mounted & front steer Rack
(It's opposite rotation in the box, needs a longer steering shaft & swivels)
with lower ball joints/arms facing forward, custom rack,
probably manual
maybe even an adjustable strut front end, over the std coil-overs
it's way lighter or than any stock geometry or OE stuff
Or if it not running CalTracs or mono-leafs
where some claim they need 5+"s of front travel
I had to limit mine on my last RR, 8.58 @ 156 car
to appr. 3-1/2" of separation/lift, it worked great,
not all car are the same, I think it really depends
on how you make the car work, how much weight is on the front
what the actual weight bias is,
it's far better to go forward, than lift it up-wasted motion
(you will never see any pro-cars, trying to do big wheelies)
unless maybe you're S/S racing & want to lift it out of the beams
& you better have some really good wheelie bars, make big HP
probably a good 4 link or at a min dbl adj. Ladderbars then too...
'Most' dedicated racecars don't have 'all steel' **** out/on front...
Most have Lexan windows, fiberglass hoods, maybe doors, fenders & bumpers
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
On mine 'it's a push' in weight on the torsion bars,
since I retained them
& I didn't want to go coil-overs
at that time for that car, not that Coilovers' 'are all bad'
for the right usage, build style
Not all coilover setups are Mustang II/Pinto '****' either...
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I like & have used Capps Automotive/MoPar Performance,
from Mancini (were made for MP)
& the later QA1 tubular stuff
(QA1 is who bought out Capps, still use their designs it appears)
on several different builds
View attachment 1459637
Now
I've used SPC UCAs double adjustable on the car,
come with HD high angle upper ball-joints installed
way more range of travel 5"+ to the bump-stop, free travel,
with lil' to no binding, than any of the OE stuff
going to use them again
View attachment 1459627
QA1 LCAs with the sway-bar tabs for street driving, car handles' great
I remove swaybar links for drag days
View attachment 1459625
Have used (old Capps Automotive from Mancini)
now QA1 dynamic adj. alum. struts, that really frees up the front end
View attachment 1459626
I have also used QA1 tubular K-Member, still using the factory-style torsion bars
way more room for oil pans & some headers,
the limiting factor in mine, for headers, is the
*($1,000) Unisteer rack & pinion,
you can get bolt in headers even still
from $700-ish+ TTI 383-178c on my 479cid street beast,
they have it in a 2" not sure it will clear
In my new/current project,
I am (will be) making custom step headers
1-7/8"-2" with Flowmasters Scavenger 4-2-1 collectors/12" extensions
maybe even some cut-outs
View attachment 1459624
Some bump steer corrections, alum-sleave tierod & ends & spacers etc.,
recommended by fellow member Charlie @cdr
View attachment 1459628
* as mentioned above
I also have used a power steering, Unisteer bolt-in Rack & Pinion
albeit pricey, I like the feedback & feel
it handles like a dream, albeit pricey & needed to correct some bump steer
I live in the mountains/stick we have many/mostly windy *** mountain roads...
I don't drag-race as much as I used to, I drive my cars
I think of them now, more of "a drag car in search of a corner" now
I have Summit brand (Afco (?) 1-3/8" front swaybar (I disconnect if I'm going drag racing)
& a 1-1/8" rear sway bar set on/in second/middle hole,
it's great for keeping the launches straight & less body roll
acts like an anti-roll device (poor-mans version)
View attachment 1459646
enjoy,
I hope some of that rambling helps
I almost bought the Hotchkis too
I almost bought the Hotchkis too
too long out too, & wait, sort of way-overpriced (but are really nice)
& I knew the SPC worked, worked very well...
I still haven't put the sets, I have on my current car
I loved them on my Silver car & the Black car too
I was just 'maybe' going in a different direction, with this car (?)
I still haven't made my mind up
not for lack of 'the performance, or strength/design', at all...
I was just 'maybe' going in a different direction...
Right now, way too many other things, happening in my life...
Not a huge priority...
As I told you...
I had bought 2 of everything the last time
& I got stiffed by a guy, I was going to install one set on/for...
I still have all of it, on the shelf...
I would not hesitate to use them
if I went that route again
Interesting. I made my own uppers with spherical rod ends. They still require removal for adjustments if the cam bolts alone can’t get it done. I’ll be building a new set for more front suspension travel.
PM sentI may be in the market - my brother has a race car shop, and is building some of his own tubular stuff while incorporating proven stuff from others. Hit me up if you are looking to move some of it
that's 2 of the reasons or why/what I didn't like
Double adjustable is great for sure, although once it’s aligned, it’s not like I make changes regularly. I run 157mph and definitely like the stability of positive caster. My other car should run 200plus mph. I want it smooth and predictable.
So your saying you don't want people near the starting line being able to read lettering on the side of your car when your in the lights.... Come On, Live a little.....
Lol, been there done that not going back for more!So your saying you don't want people near the starting line being able to read lettering on the side of your car when your in the lights.... Come On, Live a little.....
I have a buddy that runs a 23 altered with a blown BBC on alky... Running at Top Gun Raceway in Fallon Nv... First know that it's a desert.... Here, we'll let Sam explain..
