Fuel Filter

[jmopar20]

This may be a dumb question....but a smart@ss answer is better than no answer, so let me hear it!!! I just got ahold of a 73 Charger and it needs the fuel filter replaced, and as I was looking for one online I came across some "high performance" filters, and some apparently made for racing..... and now I'm wondering if

A) One of these filters would work on a higher performance level than a stock replacement

B) These filters would last as long/have similar or better quality than a stock replacement

C) Just be worth the few extra dollars in general?

Any thoughts on this topic or just the fuel system in general are greatly appreciated. Thank ye!!

 

[wannadrag]

I use the $3.00 Fram inline filter.Have also used the more expensive ones and cant tell the difference so i'll stick with the fram.

 

[thebankerstoy]

I use one of th Fram HPG-1 high performance cartridge style fuel filters back by the fuel tank and another smaller in-line style filter between the fuel pump and the carb.

Richard

Fram HPG-1 filter with replaceable filter
Fuel Filter Style Canister
Inlet Quantity Single
Inlet Size 3/8 in.
Inlet Attachment Female threads
Outlet Quantity Single
Outlet Size 3/8 in.
Outlet Attachment Female threads
Filter Element Included Yes
Filter Element Material Paper
Filter Housing Material Steel
Filter Housing Finish Natural
Overall Length (in) 5.125 in.
Outside Diameter (in) 3.750 in.
Mounting Bracket Included Yes
Fittings Included No
Clamps Included No
Smallest Particle Filtered 10 microns

Fram HPGC-1 replacement filter for HPG1 fuel filter unit
* Replacement cartridge for HPG1 filter
* Spiral-shaped centertube to provide protection against collapse
* Screen-over bypass valve to provide additional protection against larger contaminants
* Relief valve developed uniquely for high fuel flow racing conditions
* Heavy gauge steel tapping plate to withstand high pressure flexing

 

[jmopar20]

Thanks guys. So how much does a second fuel filter back by the tank help?

 

[thebankerstoy]

Thanks guys. So how much does a second fuel filter back by the tank help?

Well, if you use one like I showed above, it will help to trap the junk that may be coming out of your fuel tank before it gets a chance to gum up your fuel pump and carb and it's a much bigger and better design than the smaller in-line filters that most people use up front between their fuel pump and carb. Of course if you really have an issue in your fuel tank, the sending unit filter sock is going to plug up first and you're going to have fuel delivery issues before the fuel ever leaves the tank, so if you're planning on restoring your fuel system, start by either throughly cleaning, or replacing your fuel tank sending unit filter sock and work your way forward to the carb.

Richard

 

[jmopar20]

Thanks for the advice, I honestly need to do that as the car had been sitting for over a year (probably much longer), no telling how long the fuel had been in the tank, but the guy I bought it from started it up for me anyway and let it run a little bit. It ran pretty good but there's no way that old fuel was good for it. How difficult is it to drop a gas tank and clean it? I've seen it done on TV but stuff like that is ridiculously simple when you've got the tools those guys have, I've never seen it done without a garage lift

 

[thebankerstoy]

Thanks for the advice, I honestly need to do that as the car had been sitting for over a year (probably much longer), no telling how long the fuel had been in the tank, but the guy I bought it from started it up for me anyway and let it run a little bit. It ran pretty good but there's no way that old fuel was good for it. How difficult is it to drop a gas tank and clean it? I've seen it done on TV but stuff like that is ridiculously simple when you've got the tools those guys have, I've never seen it done without a garage lift

I don't have any experience with the later B-Body cars like your 73 Charger, but it should be set up the same way that the earlier cars are.

You will need to disconnect the vent lines and the main fuel line from the fuel tank and the filler tube will need to be removed. At that point, you should be able to remove the fuel tank mounting straps and lower the fuel tank from the car for inspection and cleaning.

If the tank is in poor condition, now would be the time to replace it and even if you are able to use the original tank, I'd replace fuel filler tube grommet for sure, as well as all of the other rubber parts in your fuel system.

If the fuel sending unit inside of the fuel tank is in good shape and you're going to reuse it, just give it a good inspection and make sure you replace the filter sock. While you're looking at the fuel sending unit, you should also take a good look at the metal retaining lock ring and it's rubber gasket, to make sure someone hasn't beat up the lock ring and since the rubber lock ring gaskets are inexpensive and easy to find, I'd replace it. You will also want to look at the fuel sending unit's ground strap. because if it's missing, or in poor condition, it wil cause you fuel gauge metering issues.

If you find a bunch of crap in the fuel tank, you will most likely have it in your mail fuel line, so you will want to clean it out also. Now would also be a good time to take a close look at the main fuel line to see if it has any damage along it's entire length.

The last two major parts in the fuel system are the fuel pump and the carb. If it was my car and I knew that it had been sitting for an extended length of time and didn't know if the previous owner had put a product like Sta_Bil in the fuel system to protect, it I'd replace the fuel pump and rebuild the carb, as the same type of varnish and other nasties that were living in your fuel tank and fuel lines, will be gumming up the fuel pump and carb also. It's just me I gurss, but I don't trust old fuel pumps and they aren't that expensive to replace. :no:

You might get lucky and find out that all you will need to replace is the fuel sending unit filter sock, all of the rubber parts and a few small parts that won't cost you all that much, but I'd highly recommend replacing ANY part of the fuel system that's not in excellent condition, because having a fuel leak fire is NOT on my list of fun things to experience! :no:

Richard

 

[69 Runner]

My radiator guy has worked on several tanks for me, first cleaning them out, then adding a chemical liner (sold by Eastwood and others). Never had any issues after having one done. HOWEVER.......this process costs about the same as a new tank (in some cases) so if your tank is marginal and a new one is available, then I'd probably replace it.


then add a new filter sock and do all the other stuff already posted:grin:

 

[thebankerstoy]

By the way, here's a neat tool that makes getting the fuel sending unit metal lock ring off easier. You don't HAVE to use a tool like this, but it's not that expensive and will make the job a little easier. ;) There are several different companies on ebay that sell these, but they all charge about the same amount, so pick your poison. .

Richard

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1966...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

 

[jmopar20]

Thanks again for the advice, as well as the link to the tool, my uncle is a mechanic and should have access to one so I think I'll give him a shout this weekend when I drop the tank. I'll keep you guys posted on my progress/results, thanks again!!

 

[jmopar20]

Alright I got the fuel tank disconnected and removed, now I've got a few questions....

A) There are 4 small rubber hoses connected to the front of the gas tank, I'll have to replace one but I'd really like to replace all of them if I can, can I just get these at autozone? And does anybody know which of these goes to what? I removed that black canister from under the hood so whichever one goes to that I can leave off, and if any of the others are for some undesired emissions requirement like that I'd like to know also.

B) The tank appears to be in great shape, just needs a LOT of exterior cleaning. I looked inside, and it looks good except for a slight amount of rusting in the top of the tank....what do I need to do to get that out and how important is it that I do? Is there a chemical I can buy to do this myself?

C) Do they have the fuel filler tube at autozone or any auto parts store as well? I know I'll find out either way when I get off work today but thought I'd get a head start on looking for one on the internet if somebody knew that they didn't.

Thanks guys

 

[thebankerstoy]

Alright I got the fuel tank disconnected and removed, now I've got a few questions....

A) There are 4 small rubber hoses connected to the front of the gas tank, I'll have to replace one but I'd really like to replace all of them if I can, can I just get these at autozone? And does anybody know which of these goes to what? I removed that black canister from under the hood so whichever one goes to that I can leave off, and if any of the others are for some undesired emissions requirement like that I'd like to know also.

B) The tank appears to be in great shape, just needs a LOT of exterior cleaning. I looked inside, and it looks good except for a slight amount of rusting in the top of the tank....what do I need to do to get that out and how important is it that I do? Is there a chemical I can buy to do this myself?

C) Do they have the fuel filler tube at autozone or any auto parts store as well? I know I'll find out either way when I get off work today but thought I'd get a head start on looking for one on the internet if somebody knew that they didn't.

Thanks guys

(A) From what you're saying about your car having the black plastic canister (charcoal canister) up in the engine compartment and the small rubber hoses at the fuels tank, It looks like your car must have originally been sold in Californai and as such would have the California (only) mandated "Cleaner Air Package" (C.A.P.) system in place. This could also be verifed by looking at your fender tag, which should have factory option code #471 for the 66-67 models.

In my humble opinion, unless you live in California, or plan to move to California, or you live in a State that has a strict mandated emissions testing program in place that might hassle you for not having all of the cars original emission equipment on the car, you could just cap off those 4 small lines at the tank. You would then want to make sure that you have a vented gas cap in place to avoid problems there, as some of those original lines were vent lines.

There should also be two larger formed hoses that you should replace and they are both being reproduced and sold as either a set, or individually and can be found on ebay and most of the major Mopar suppliers like Firestone Collectibles, Year One, and others. I like and use the ones from Firestone Collectibles, but as long as their new, all should work fine.

Firestone Collectibles http://www.mopar9999.com/fcstore2008/shop/default.aspx
GAS TANK HOSE KIT 66 67 CORONET CHARGER SATELLITE GTX
Item #: FTEA
Price/ea:$69.00
This is a brand new reproduction kit. Includes what is seen in the picture, including both sizes of the small hose. You will only need to use 2 of the hoses in the kit. Fits all 66-67 B-bodies except station wagon.

Year One part #FR859
Mopar 1966-1967 B-body models fuel filler elbow.
This elbow clamps in place between the outer filler tube and the filler tube of the gas tank. Includes the correct-style clamps.

Year One part #FR860
Mopar 1966-1967 B-body models fuel vent pipe elbow.
This properly routes fuel vapor.

(B) See Tem's (69 Runners) advice above for cleaning and repairing your tank.

(C) The fuel filler tube is steel and should be able to to be cleaned up and reused. If it's rusted out, or damaged in some other way, you're going to have to find a used one at a wreaking yard or somewhere like ebay, because as far as I know, nobody is reproducing this part. If you're talking about the rubber elbow hoses that connect the filler tube to the fuel tank, then see all of the information I listed above.

Richard

 

[69 Runner]

I love this place:HappyNewYear:

 

[jmopar20]

Thanks for the info and the advice. I definitely want to rid my car of as much emissions control equipment as possible, so it's ok to cap off all 4 of the vent lines on the front of the tank, and remove the small rubber hoses from under the car that were connected to it, as long as I get a vented gas cap, of course? I guess I wasn't sure if they were all vents, thought actual fuel might have run through one of them or something, which wouldn't make much sense since the sending unit is elsewhere on the tank.

After reading a few articles on gas tanks and listening to a lot of ideas and opinions, I believe I may just spend a little extra on buying a new tank for the car, as well as run new lines. Now my question is, should I get the stock replacement lines (I think would be 5/16") or would it be ok to up the size to 3/8" lines, especially if I plan on performance increase mods here and there as I go along in the future?

You guys are a huge help, thanks again!

 

[jmopar20]

I just came across a product on ebay that would save me a lot of money that I'll prolly go with if you guys think it wouldn't be too hard to do:


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories


Let me know what you guys think!!

 

[thebankerstoy]

Man, I'm losing it in my old age! :head_smack: The rubber hose elbows that I posted above are correct for the 66-67 B-Body cars and are different from what you have on your 73 Charger!:sigh: :head_smack:

As far as repairing your original tank goes, I'm sure it can be done, but I've never done one myself. I've just replaced the old tank with a new one. I don't build 100 point show cars that have to have "date coded" and all original parts, plus the fact that old fuel system parts bother me, so if I don't know the history on a particular fuel system part, I replace it, as it's just not worth the risk and hassle to me personally to restore an old part.

I would also recommend that you upgrade to 3/8" fuel line and while you're at it, don't forget to upgrade to a 3/8" fuel sending unit, or upgrading the fuel line itself will be a waste of time and money. ;)

Just my .02 though.

Richard

 

[jmopar20]

Lol I noticed that, but didn't wanna be rude!!

And after coming across an article where a guy actually ruined his tank and fuel lines by either not doing it right or using the wrong chemicals, I think I'll shell out the few extra bucks for the new tank and just take good care of it.

A 3/8 upgrade is now on the list as well. Thanks again for your time, once again, I'll keep you posted with my progress!!

 

[thebankerstoy]

Lol I noticed that, but didn't wanna be rude!!

And after coming across an article where a guy actually ruined his tank and fuel lines by either not doing it right or using the wrong chemicals, I think I'll shell out the few extra bucks for the new tank and just take good care of it.

A 3/8 upgrade is now on the list as well. Thanks again for your time, once again, I'll keep you posted with my progress!!

It's ok to slap us old farts around once in awhile, it keeps us focused! :grin:

Money spent on the fuel system is money well spent. :yes:

Richard

 

[69 Runner]

Eastwoods sells stuff like that

I just came across a product on ebay that would save me a lot of money that I'll prolly go with if you guys think it wouldn't be too hard to do:


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-...ptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories


Let me know what you guys think!!

 

[jmopar20]

I'm fixing to place an order with paddock; after finding a couple sites with tanks that were somewhat cheaper I realized their shipping was much higher and figured I'd pay a couple extra bucks to a company with a better reputation and seemingly better quality. However, I'm having trouble figuring out which fuel lines I need to order? The descriptions don't seem to be too clear to me. Some say fuel pump to carb line, others say front to rear fuel line, seems like they would be the same thing? Pardon my ignorance, any help is appreciated, or if you know of a cheaper source without sacrificing quality that info would be nice as well. Thanks!