Fuel pump pushrods-Again

[Dean Prevolos]

I have a question on the installtion of the fuel pump and push rod. I removed my fuel pump last night to re-build because I had no pressure coming from the fuel pump. I have never changed a fuel pump in a 426 hemi so my question is, what is the best way to install the fuel pump so the pushrod rests on the arm of the fuel pump? Do I remove the lock screw in the block and push the rod up as I put the pump in? The engine is in the car and not sure on the steps to install. Thank you in advance, Dean.

 

[hunt2elk]

I have a question on the installtion of the fuel pump and push rod. I removed my fuel pump last night to re-build because I had no pressure coming from the fuel pump. I have never changed a fuel pump in a 426 hemi so my question is, what is the best way to install the fuel pump so the pushrod rests on the arm of the fuel pump? Do I remove the lock screw in the block and push the rod up as I put the pump in? The engine is in the car and not sure on the steps to install. Thank you in advance, Dean.

Remove the access plug and fish the old one out. You will want to turn the motor over by turning the crank with a 1 1/4" socket until the cam lobe is up as far as it will go. Put a dab of grease on the rod to hold it up in place. Slide in the new rod and replace the plug. Install the pump.

 

[khryslerkid]

I have a question on the installtion of the fuel pump and push rod. I removed my fuel pump last night to re-build because I had no pressure coming from the fuel pump. I have never changed a fuel pump in a 426 hemi so my question is, what is the best way to install the fuel pump so the pushrod rests on the arm of the fuel pump? Do I remove the lock screw in the block and push the rod up as I put the pump in? The engine is in the car and not sure on the steps to install. Thank you in advance, Dean.

You want to remove pump then remove the plug then remove the pushrod. Measure the pushrod for wear. 3.220 or close is what you're looking for. If alls good reinstall the pushrod, hold it in with your finger and rotate the engine by hand and feel it travel in and out. When it is in as far as it goes then you can install the pump. You can tell if the arm is in contact with the end of the pushrod by feel or by looking in the plug hole.

I like to use a remote starter button to bump the engine around to find the shortest stroke of the pushrod. Just install the rod and while holding it against the cam lobe bump the engine until it's in as far as it goes. It makes it so much easier to install the pump not having any pressure on the fuel pump leaver.

A little sealer on the gasket and stick the bolts though just a few threads before installing. Most gaskets will hold the bolts for you.

All buttoned up.

 

[Dean Prevolos]

I installed the fuel pump yesterday and had two issues: First the outlet port did not line up with fuel line to the carbs, see photos. But I cranked the engine anyway to see if I had fuel from the tank and I did. When I removed the fuel pump, fuel came out of the lower bowl on the inlet side and the hose from the gas tank, so I figured it is good and at least bringing the fuel up from the tank. I take apart and re-position the lower bowl to line up with my fuel line to the carbs. I also changed my 3/8" brass fitting to aim straight to the carb fuel line. I put back on the car and connect the fuel line to the carbs and I still have no fuel to the carbs? I will go back at it today but I am wondering if the push rod is worn and not giving the arm enough of a push to generate the right amount of pressure. Your thoughts?

P.S. The reason I changed the brass fitting is I had a new rebuilt fuel pump but it had the 1/4" NPT fitting and I need the 3/8" NPT fitting, so I disassembled both fuel pumps and used the bottom bowl with the 3/8" NPT and fitted to the rebuilt top half so I would have the new diaphram/spring. The numbers on my original fuel pump are MO-1634. The pump arm I replaced it with was O-1053. I am not sure on the spring load and need to check it out today.

 

[Mackman]

Did you measure that pushrod? 3.220 is the correct length. Mine was wore .200, and though I could feel at the line that something was happening, it wouldn't pump any fuel. Installed a hardened pushrod from Hughes Engines yesterday.

 

[Dean Prevolos]

Did you measure that pushrod? 3.220 is the correct length. Mine was wore .200, and though I could feel at the line that something was happening, it wouldn't pump any fuel. Installed a hardened pushrod from Hughes Engines yesterday.

No I haven't measured the push rod yet because I haven't removed it. Again I put everything together yesterday and wasn't getting any fuel to the carbs. I plan on removing the pump and push and I will measure the pushrod fir it's length. And I will probably buy from Hughes engines as well. Thank you for your comment.

 

[khryslerkid]

No I haven't measured the push rod yet because I haven't removed it. Again I put everything together yesterday and wasn't getting any fuel to the carbs. I plan on removing the pump and push and I will measure the pushrod fir it's length. And I will probably buy from Hughes engines as well. Thank you for your comment.

There's a procedure for putting the fuel pump back together so you don't stretch the diaphragm. Then and Now that I mentioned in my thread Fuel Pumps 101 has a video on doing this.

 

[Dean Prevolos]

There's a procedure for putting the fuel pump back together so you don't stretch the diaphragm. Then and Now that I mentioned in my thread Fuel Pumps 101 has a video on doing this.

I will watch the video thank you.

 

[moparedtn]

I've still got a brand new pushrod from Howard's in the baggie hanging on my garage pegboard.
Some member (ahem @khryslerkid ) from PA told me those were junk, so I never installed it...
Anybody want it?

 

[MTBRider]

Is there a trick to getting the pushrod out? Mine hits a pretty firm stop on the way out. I assumed it would just fall out but no go (possibly burred up on the other end?)
Repeat question posted in the mechanical fuel pump 101

 

[6PKRTSE]

Now whenever I need a f.p. push rod. I will always go through my stash of big block parts or pull one out of a spare engine. I had a newer one fail on my years ago.

 

[Don Frelier]

I installed the fuel pump yesterday and had two issues: First the outlet port did not line up with fuel line to the carbs, see photos. But I cranked the engine anyway to see if I had fuel from the tank and I did. When I removed the fuel pump, fuel came out of the lower bowl on the inlet side and the hose from the gas tank, so I figured it is good and at least bringing the fuel up from the tank. I take apart and re-position the lower bowl to line up with my fuel line to the carbs. I also changed my 3/8" brass fitting to aim straight to the carb fuel line. I put back on the car and connect the fuel line to the carbs and I still have no fuel to the carbs? I will go back at it today but I am wondering if the push rod is worn and not giving the arm enough of a push to generate the right amount of pressure. Your thoughts?

P.S. The reason I changed the brass fitting is I had a new rebuilt fuel pump but it had the 1/4" NPT fitting and I need the 3/8" NPT fitting, so I disassembled both fuel pumps and used the bottom bowl with the 3/8" NPT and fitted to the rebuilt top half so I would have the new diaphram/spring. The numbers on my original fuel pump are MO-1634. The pump arm I replaced it with was O-1053. I am not sure on the spring load and need to check it out today.

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It does take a little cranking to fill the line and carb or carbs in your case.
You might want to fill the carbs or just get a squirt bottle to start it and get it running.
It may be just fine as is.

 

[Dean Prevolos]

It does take a little cranking to fill the line and carb or carbs in your case.
You might want to fill the carbs or just get a squirt bottle to start it and get it running.
It may be just fine as is.

Good morning Don, you are correct, it take a little cranking to finally get the gas to flow up and out of the fuel pump and up to the carbs. I have the hemi running now, thanks for your response.

 

[Don Frelier]

Good news!

 

[69hemibeep]

Think of that push rod as a solid lifter, it needs zinc and phosphorus in the oil also. Why all the rod failures started when it was removed from motor oil Hmmmm

 

[440+6]

Years back I had a comp cams pushrod fail a few blocks from home, probably 1000 miles on it!
Had a hard time getting it out but a box end wrench and a pry bar made it easy.
Since then I was able to buy three old stock mopar replacements, installed one and 15 years later still no problem.
There are definitely some bad rods out there!