Golden Goddess heart surgery

[HawkRod]

The gauge is kinda of a turd, the arrows are really confusing, I might try a different gauge

The gauge probably works fine. Easiest way to tell how the arrows work it to hold it at an obvious angle one direction from vertical and take a measurement, noting how the arrows point. Now rotate it past vertical leaning the other way. Again take a measurement - the arrows should point the other way. Now you know how the arrows work.

I had to do this with the gauge I had. It is easy to get messed up, so take it slow and measure twice, cut once!

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Ok, so it looks like arrow up, arrow down, is angled down. And it looks like I can zero the angle gauge. So after all of that and making sure it’s on the flat of the yoke on the rear, we’re 2.5 degrees down

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

And it looks like we’re 1.80 down at the transmission

 

[HawkRod]

From what I understand, those numbers don't seem bad.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Unfortunately it was too late Saturday to take it out, and I was a little too busy yesterday.
Hopefully today or tomorrow I can take it out and see

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Well, I’m kinda at a loss. The car has always had a pretty noticeable driveline vibration, but it seems last Wednesday it turned to borderline undriveable. And I drove it highway speeds for 40 miles after the engine rebuild and it wasn’t that way.

So I took it apart, fix the driveline, finally got a chance to take it out, only went a couple miles down a highway. 50-70 felt better then it has, but still something, road, wheel weights idk. Turned around feeling like I fixed it………and it’s back! .


It sat for a couple months while fixing the brakes, could the tires have flat spots from sitting?

 

[ckessel]

Possible on the flat spots. Also, some tires are not round which when tied in with wheels that have problems can cause that issue. Toss it up in the air and do some investigation. Tire out of round, cord separation, sidewall not true, wheel with the same issues. Some of the better brands of balance units will give you runout specs with max amounts. You can sometimes help on that by braking the bead on the tire to rotate it to a better location on the wheel. The machine will let you know where. If either are too far out, it's replacement time. Also check the axle flange and rotor wheel flange to eliminate them from the equation. Bent, studs not placed correctly giving you up/down issues. When I worked at the speed shop in the early 80's, my boss had chrome steel wheels on his Chevy dually. Had a constant vibration that couldn't get found with normal means. Turned out that the wheel center on one was the problem. Also on some balance machines, you can get road force balancing which is different than the norm. They apply a roller to the outside of the tire/wheel, when spinning, under a high load, which can make a difference on the balance.
At a shop I worked at before moving here, there were two customers who supplied repos tires for their rides. Two different suppliers and manufactures. Both vibrated. Some was due to the wheels having tolerance issues. They would not balance out and neither customer wanted to pony up to get new tires/wheels to fix the problem.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Last place the tires got balanced was at least 4 years ago, and it was discount tire who I’ve never had good luck with. And with the car sitting for a couple months, that’s what has me entertaining that idea.

But what’s weird is I drove it a couple miles it was fine, turnaround and come back and it’s like a switch flipped, complete opposite of fine

 

[ckessel]

Look for cord separation. Tire will be egg shaped when you rotate it.

 

[5.7 hemi]

A big burnout will help.

 

[MarPar]

A big burnout will help.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

A big burnout will help.

I’ll have to try that!

 

[MarPar]

I’ll have to try that!

Just make sure you have enough gas

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Burnout pics are difficult with a 4 speed

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Well @5.7 hemi , it was worth trying your idea, but I don’t think it worked, I tried it 3 times……..for science

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

I’ll take a better look at things tomorrow to see if there’s anything glaringly obvious. But I actually think the burnout helped, which reinforces my theory of out of round tires, and if it did actually help…….well that only means 1 thing

 

[5.7 hemi]

If it’s still doing it, I’d check all the lug nuts, then open the hood and check motor mounts, then crawl under the car and start at the trans checking it’s mount the drive shaft and the yokes.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

u joints were my first thought, so when I had the driveshaft out I checked and they’re good. Last night after my unsuccessful test run I checked lug nuts and they were fine. So yes, that’s tomorrows plan, check every nut and bolt, see if my eyeballs can see anything funky with the tires. And sometime this week I’ll go to a good tire shop and get them rebalanced

 

[5.7 hemi]

Just for shits and giggles, check the leaf spring front hanger bolts.

 

[Kern Dog]

I've had Mopars over the years that had some type of shaking in the front end. This was back before I had much money and even less skills to diagnose.
In many cases, something loose in the front end causes a small shake that gains intensity with speed. A bad idler arm, tie rod end, loose steering box bolts will allow movement that just starts going back and forth getting worse and worse.
Drums and rotors got balanced when these cars were new. I doubt that any reproductions do.
I've only had vibrations from the red car when I had a Gear Vendors unit in it. I modified the transmission crossmember for that and had some issues with metal to metal contact. The drive shaft in the GV setup also wasn't set up right. The GV unit had a bolt on yoke which required me to use a drive shaft with a slip-n-spline design like you see in the front of a traditional 4wd truck. It wasn't the type you'd choose for smooth operation, it was strong but not graceful....