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Golden Goddess heart surgery

You’re off quite a bit, about 7-8 degrees if I’m doing the math correctly…
 
More or less, if I understand your previous post the trans is tail down and the pinion is already nose up?
 
Cheapsunglasses said:
@HawkRod @Black_Sheep , and anyone else that knows better :lol:

Ok, my cheap amazon angle finder came in, probably not the best one to use but here’s the numbers. If I’m not mistaken engine is is down 1.45, and my rear is up 6.4 degrees. I also found at one point I put shims under the rear, and doing research they’re 2 degrees, I must have misread something 7 years ago and thought it needed to go up,
Idk

View attachment 1633838

View attachment 1633839

View attachment 1633840

View attachment 1633841

View attachment 1633844
Click to expand...
The points where that angle finder are attached are not representative of the true angle. Housings are not square and level to the centerlines of the rotating parts inside. The transmission case has no plumb or level parts to attach to except the bellhousing flange and the tail shaft seal flange. The axle housing is just as bad. You have to attach to the yoke itself, not the housing.
Did I see that right?
 
Kern Dog said:
The points where that angle finder are attached are not representative of the true angle. Housings are not square and level to the centerlines of the rotating parts inside. The transmission case has no plumb or level parts to attach to except the bellhousing flange and the tail shaft seal flange. The axle housing is just as bad. You have to attach to the yoke itself, not the housing.
Did I see that right?
Click to expand...
Pictures 2+4 are the useful ones, and #4 I would put the finder on the flats where the u joint strap bolts to.
One has to remember that the driveshaft speeds up and slows down during a revolution. That's why they need to be parallel. Then mix in the movement of the rear axle... fun
 
since
Kern Dog said:
The points where that angle finder are attached are not representative of the true angle. Housings are not square and level to the centerlines of the rotating parts inside. The transmission case has no plumb or level parts to attach to except the bellhousing flange and the tail shaft seal flange. The axle housing is just as bad. You have to attach to the yoke itself, not the housing.
Did I see that right?
Click to expand...
i put the angle finder on the yokes and on the housing because I didn’t know the best place and just went everywhere hoping one would be correct
 
Well I thought they were 2 degrees, apparently they’re 3 degree shims. We’re going to just flip them to the back for now and see what that does

4B6073A8-29DF-4383-A20E-ED930B67AC84.jpeg
 
Find a deep socket that fits the diff yoke in place of the u joint, it will give a good surface for the angle finder. Same for the trans tail shaft, hold a socket on the end of the tail shaft to space it out past the seal.
 
Holy smokes that was a fight getting things turned around, but it’s done, and just for the sakes of a-b comparison and I can’t find the socket big enough for the yoke nut, here’s the new number

D93498F5-1A63-4A26-9859-5AA7172681BA.jpeg
 
Not for a direct an and b test, but I guess my previous numbers doesn’t matter. I’ll remeasure tomorrow
 
Cheapsunglasses said:
Well, I built my car before I became a member of this great forum, so I’ll give you guys a rebuild thread. So the backstory on the car. I had a 68 satellite 4 door, and a couple dodge trucks, but I really wanted a 1966-7 or a 1970 super bee, but truthfully they’re all beautiful so my search was for a 2 door, 4 speed. In 2017 this 1968 GTX came up, it was a roller with no title, but it was too good to pass up. Being a fan of the 70s street freaks and street machines, I set out to build a tribute to that golden era. I repainted the engine bay, after 4 years of rebuilding, repainting, and rewiring it was finally a driver! After 2 years of driving, some of my budget fixes started to show. Every gasket on the 440 is leaking. And I built a Frankenstein 833 iron case with 833od guts a week before a road trip, didn’t have time for new gaskets, so reused the old ones with a lot of silicone and prayers, yeah as expected that didn’t work. After going through the home buying process, and slowly gathering gaskets and seals….oh yeah and a camshaft, because it’s a non hp 440, and if I’m pulling it out, might as well!

View attachment 1413458

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Click to expand...
sorry late to the thread 1st I saw of it
starting from the beginning :poke:

Looks great under there :thumbsup:
 
Cheapsunglasses said:
@HawkRod @Black_Sheep , and anyone else that knows better :lol:

Ok, my cheap amazon angle finder came in, probably not the best one to use but here’s the numbers. If I’m not mistaken engine is is down 1.45, and my rear is up 6.4 degrees. I also found at one point I put shims under the rear, and doing research they’re 2 degrees, I must have misread something 7 years ago and thought it needed to go up,
Idk

View attachment 1633838

View attachment 1633839

View attachment 1633840

View attachment 1633841

View attachment 1633844
Click to expand...

Kern Dog said:
The points where that angle finder are attached are not representative of the true angle. Housings are not square and level to the centerlines of the rotating parts inside. The transmission case has no plumb or level parts to attach to except the bellhousing flange and the tail shaft seal flange. The axle housing is just as bad. You have to attach to the yoke itself, not the housing.
Did I see that right?
Click to expand...
I agree. you need to use good attachment points that are representative of the true angles. None of the housings are good to use.

Black_Sheep said:
Find a deep socket that fits the diff yoke in place of the u joint, it will give a good surface for the angle finder. Same for the trans tail shaft, hold a socket on the end of the tail shaft to space it out past the seal.
Click to expand...
Good idea! I used the point referenced by Kern Dog below for the pinion and a straight edge across the balancer pulley, but I like the socket idea.

Kern Dog said:
View attachment 1634033

That still isn't a square and plumb/level mounting spot.



What you need is a straight edge here:

View attachment 1634035

It has to sit flat across the mounting face, something like a paint stirring stick from the hardware store.
Click to expand...

Note also that you need to be sure you understand how your gauge is measuring. For example (and forget about if this was a good measuring spot): The 84.7* that the gauge is measuring from the picture above. Does that mean that the pinion is UP by 5.3* or DOWN by 5.3*?
Make sure you know, and don't assume, which way it is. The little arrows besides the numbers tell you which way it is, but I am not familiar with your gauge so I won't venture a guess as to which it is.
 
Yeah, I was thinking one of those.
I like the digital because you can put it there, press hold, get out from under the car and take a note, and it’s more compact. The Klein looks pretty simple, being an electrician I should have known better and stuck with trusty Klein :lol:

D8278900-2D4A-44B7-AED4-150E9014E87F.png
 
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