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You do have to drive forward and back to settle the suspension.
Raising or lowering will effect toe in more than anything else.The aftermarket UCAs all seem to be built with increased caster in mind. You may know this but caster and camber are somewhat intertwined. It is hard to have positive camber and positive caster. You don't want positive camber anyway so that is sort of moot.
I run .75 negative camber, 5 degrees of positive caster and 1/8" toe IN. This was before I raised the car an inch this week. Even going up one inch affects the alignment a small amount but not enough to warrant a trip back to the shop. After seeing Chris' video, I'll go ahead and buy the gauges and try doing my own at home.
Well this is a fun one. I got the 1157s in, I swapped out to led flashers, it took a little pushing and I had to tap the flasher a couple of times, but I sorta have lights. The front running light, turn signal, and hazard work great. The rear running light, and turn signal work great. However the flashers and brake lights don’t. I swapped everything back, apparently I don’t have brake lights
That damn low-hanging fruit...Upon further inspection it appears we have a possible bad brake light switch
This is why we put electricians on electrical jobs!Upon further inspection it appears we have a possible bad brake light switch
Make sure its not "set the toe and let it go" on their alignments.Finally figured out the brake issue, stupid wire just barely pulled out of the connector
So, got her all cleaned up and ready for a date with an alignment shop. The guy I spoke to said their alignment guy is a genius, it doesn’t leave until it’s correct and feels right, so hopefully he’s not all talk, if so they’re running a promotional deal and it’s $1 alignments all month, so I’m not out that much
Oh I called them and he assured me the tech doesn’t let it leave until he’s happy with itMake sure its not "set the toe and let it go" on their alignments.