Golden Goddess heart surgery

[PRND21]

Is the pushrod seated all the way into the piston?

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

It appears to be

 

[RemCharger]

You have the pushrod all the way locked in?

Edit got treed

 

[Kern Dog]

Ok, that took entirely too damn long but finally lines are complete. Now under the dash again to hook up the linkage

View attachment 1669780

View attachment 1669781

I meant to mention....NICE work on forming those brake lines.

I have the factory manual drum brake push rod off the car. I only bought the dr diff one because I thought it would be shorter and could lengthen to what you need (that’s what she said, but holding the factory rod in place it doesn’t look much shorter

I thought of this too. What if the end of the pushrod isn't fully seated? That will account for the tall height for sure. The light action of bleeding won't seat the pushrod like when the lines are connected and you're pushing 700-1200 psi to the brakes!

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

From what I can see it looks seated, my current theory is with the push rod being too long, the pedal is bottoming out before it can move the rod all the way. Or maybe bending the temporary bleeder line I kinked it and air not pushing through

Talking with Zack, current plan is to take the factory push rod, cut it and weld it to the right length, went from pedal too low to pedal too high, car needs to learn boundaries

 

[Kern Dog]

No, no....
The factory pushrod fit and worked. If you recreated the manual master cylinder arrangement, it will all fit using stock parts.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

For some reason it’s not. Could the drum/drum master cylinder have the bore a little further in?

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

Factory pedal rod

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

dr diff pedal rod

 

[Kern Dog]

Here are a few I have here:

75 Dart with power:

Aftermarket 1.03 for power or manual:

I have more pictures but can't find them.
I'm serious though. If you essentially recreated a factory type setup, the factory pushrod should fit and the pedal should be lower. I had the opposite problem with power brakes....The A body booster I had left the brake and clutch pedals of similar height, The correct B body booster had the brake pedal lower and that annoyed me.
A member here made a custom pushrod for me...

That allowed me to raise the brake pedal so they line up.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

I'm serious though. If you essentially recreated a factory type setup, the factory pushrod should fit and the pedal should be lower.

I’m not saying you’re wrong, I’m telling you what I have and I’m just as confused, I took measurements, look at post #848 and #849

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

With the factory rod I can get the front break reservoir to just start working before the pedal bottoms out. The dr diff one, I can only get to engage if I take it off and do it by hand. It makes absolutely no sense why it doesn’t work, maybe it’s not for the car after all, but I can make it work…

 

[Kern Dog]

It is a head scratcher. From 1500 miles away, I'm confused too.
This right here:

First of all, I measure from the center of the hole to the end but that isn't important at the moment.
Secondly, that rubber grommet on the new one does have to compress a bit to squeeze into a recess in the master cylinder piston. SOME master cylinders are not machined for it, they are specifically for power use only where the pushrod can never back out enough to fall out.
Manual pushrods can pull out if the MC is rusty and you pull up on the pedal IF there is no pushrod grommet in place.
What you're looking for is a machined groove in the sleeve in the MC piston.

 

[eldubb440]

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

It is a head scratcher. From 1500 miles away, I'm confused too.
This right here:

View attachment 1669910

First of all, I measure from the center of the hole to the end but that isn't important at the moment.
Secondly, that rubber grommet on the new one does have to compress a bit to squeeze into a recess in the master cylinder piston. SOME master cylinders are not machined for it, they are specifically for power use only where the pushrod can never back out enough to fall out.
Manual pushrods can pull out if the MC is rusty and you pull up on the pedal IF there is no pushrod grommet in place.
What you're looking for is a machined groove in the sleeve in the MC piston.

I can try to rubber part off the new rod and see what that does

If I take the rod off the pedal and use my hand instead of the pedal to pump the mc I can get it to activate the front

If I use the old rod I can get it to a active the front brakes

If I use the new rod it won’t

 

[Kern Dog]

That is strange.

 

[64fury74charger]

I haven’t read the whole thread, so I will ask if the rod from the pedal is going into the master in a level or straight line or is there an angle that causes the rod to be off center pushing the plunger in. I have had issues with this before causing me some problems.

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

I haven’t read the whole thread, so I will ask if the rod from the pedal is going into the master in a level or straight line or is there an angle that causes the rod to be off center pushing the plunger in. I have had issues with this before causing me some problems.

Rod is straight, problem is with rod length and pedal travel, but I think I’ve got it

 

[khryslerkid]

There's not an old rubber in the mc bore?

(He said rubber)

 

[Cheapsunglasses]

No, virgin bore

As a last ditch effort before calling it quits I pulled the rubber off the dr diff rod, stuck it in, pedal hight it s right at the clutch hight, and it activates front and rear brakes