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Golden Goddess heart surgery

No, virgin bore

As a last ditch effort before calling it quits I pulled the rubber off the dr diff rod, stuck it in, pedal hight it s right at the clutch hight, and it activates front and rear brakes

Without the rubber on the rod it works out?

Sounds like it's not seated using the rubber. Like Kern said look in the bore for a machined section for the rubber to lock into.
 
May also be that the pushrod hole in the piston isn't machined correctly or different than others.
 
There is a risk by not using that grommet.
 
There is a risk by not using that grommet.
Yes, 100% risk.
Yeah there’s a little risk, as @ckessel said maybe it’s not machined for it, so I guess I could put a dab of rtv or something there
The rod has to lock in there, no ifs and/ or buts.. put the rubber all the way in, then push the rod in with your foot on the pedal. A little lube always helps...
Put a hooked pick in there to check for a groove.
Otherwise.. " hey, haven't seen cheapsunglasses on here lately?"
 
It is a head scratcher. From 1500 miles away, I'm confused too.
This right here:

View attachment 1669910

First of all, I measure from the center of the hole to the end but that isn't important at the moment.
Secondly, that rubber grommet on the new one does have to compress a bit to squeeze into a recess in the master cylinder piston. SOME master cylinders are not machined for it, they are specifically for power use only where the pushrod can never back out enough to fall out.
Manual pushrods can pull out if the MC is rusty and you pull up on the pedal IF there is no pushrod grommet in place.
What you're looking for is a machined groove in the sleeve in the MC piston.

Yeah there’s a little risk, as @ckessel said maybe it’s not machined for it,
Come on, man....I mentioned it and explained why it is important.

01 face 25.jpg
 
we didn't need rubbers in our day....... youngsters love to complicate things

hole inspection was always mandatory



do we have brakes or not?
 
@eldubb440 , nope we got nothing but setbacks per usual, almost a week down the drain because I fucked up. Yep that’s a totally screwed up cross threaded fitting that 2 days ago stopped and asked myself, is it cross threaded, looked every which way at and it looked fine. Try to start the brake bleeding process, wrong

62F042F8-4EA8-44D3-B9A3-77DC227E68E9.jpeg
 
I remember that one time that I made a mistake.





(Every dang day I make mistakes)
 
mistakes and crossed threads happen...... do you now have brake fluid where you need it?
 
It won’t seal so fluid is escaping. I have messed up the threads so I need another distribution block
 
Check this out. Three master cylinders. First one is 1 1/8” and meant for manual or power.


B783D421-9FA5-4A4C-8DBF-9583EDADB103.jpeg


Now look at the piston. You can see the machined recess around the inside. This is for the rubber grommet.

DAB08585-D0AF-4556-94E5-680D77B0472E.jpeg


Here is a 1.03 unit for power brakes.

196CA320-DB28-4306-A30B-B9D504A543A6.jpeg


See no groove?

000B88E8-0C91-4DFF-83D7-9F4132D27A94.jpeg

The pushrod in the booster is not going to fall out. See….

5ED7824F-216E-4A9A-975C-0B1A6210620E.jpeg


The manual pushrod is longer and not trapped in place like the power unit is. MC #3.

94C44F09-F336-4E9F-A904-6D40275AD4D1.jpeg


Groove.

9EA2F655-2E4E-47FF-AD87-5843E12D8FEC.jpeg


Those adjustable proportioning valves…. I’ve never needed them. The 4 wheel disc doesn’t use one and my other cars have stiff suspension that doesn’t dive the front real hard on braking. Heavy front brake dive often accompanies rear lift on braking where the rear is more likely to skid.
Maybe an adjustable proportioning valve makes sense for you.
 
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