Greedy Incompetent Transmission Shop-Possible Spun Crank Bearing

[OutLawBiker]

A tranny job really has nothing to do with bearings in the engine, probably just a coincidence. Trans guys nowadays are used to 4-9speed trans, not an excuse; just the way it is. To my way of thinking, you need to REALLY ask questions today to find the shop/guy you want to use.

Yes that's right. Thought I did but obviously I need to learn more about people as well.
Expensive schooling my friend.

 

[SattyNoCar]

When did it start knocking? After the last transmission install?

I've personally seen a broken snout (the part that engages the pump) on a torque convertor and it sounded VERY much like a rod knock. This came to mind since you mention it sounds like #8 is knocking. Car ran and drove, just knocked. Yanked the trans and pulled the TC and half the snout just fell out.

 

[tonysrt]

I understand your no show problem. But don't you feel it may cost you an engine in the process especially if you have to make a few passes. Whatever you do I wish you good luck and hope it turns out to your advantage.

 

[HawkRod]

So I am a bit worried about the fact that a torque converter may have been run on your externally balanced engine without the proper weight. This would have caused a significant engine imbalance. If the engine was run (i.e. aggressively "tested") in this configuration it could have caused some engine damage.

I am no expert on this, so I can't say what the likelihood is, but just offering it as a consideration.

Good luck

 

[dvw]

There seems to be a accusations here with little evidence. How did welding weight to a converter ruin it? What is a “stage 2” transmission? How does installing a transmission have anything to do with engine failure? How does line pressue being low effect only the 2/3 shift? How do you know the line pressure Is low? To me it looks like you know very little about transmissions. Appears you are reading off a spec sheet from someone’s advertisement. Do you have an invoice showing what is actually inside the transmission? How about the labor costs? What is the actual issue with your trans? Falls on it’s face on the 2/3 shift refers to what? $4k seems pretty steep for just a normal performance rebuild. Something fishy with this whole deal. What did the shop say? Complaining about someone on a forum isn’t going to fix your car. Just my 2 cents.
Doug

 

[yella71]

yeah fishy....i smell BS

 

[cosgig]

2/3s referring to the maximum RPM in 1st gear.
727 Street / Strip Stage 2 transmission is based on HP rating.
Typically, comes complete with these components;
alto red racing clutches, kolene steels in stock front drum thats modified, TCI flex red racing kick down band, alto red clutches, kolene steels in rear clutch with modified apply piston, spring & metal spacer ring, 4.2 band lever, H.D. Band Strut, Billet rear servo, A&A Full Manual Valve body with Low Band Apply, Bolt in Sprag, lengthened sun gear, rear clutch, and rear drum, 4-pinion front planet & 3-pinion rear planet, Deep Pan, Kevlar rear band, acc., blocked spacer added,
90 # front servo, oil mods to case and components, babbit front pump bushing, new pump gears, gasket, and seals. With some minor variations.
This trans is good for 600 HP
Stage 2 Transmissions
I hope I've made this clear for you and less mystifying.

So, you paid him $4k to replicate this setup and you didn’t get what you paid for? I smell a lawsuit here, and in my area, $4k would buy you the whole dam car. I pay my trans guy $400 to rebuild my transmissions on the bench.

And, I see you’re in Medford, maybe you know my uncle Joe? He owns the Dairy Queen, and has a **** load of cars. He’s all Chevy tho!

 

[Jeremiah]

Another question....how are we worried about a race? You won't hook anything up around here for 2-3 more months.

 

[747mopar]

There seems to be a accusations here with little evidence. How did welding weight to a converter ruin it? What is a “stage 2” transmission? How does installing a transmission have anything to do with engine failure? How does line pressue being low effect only the 2/3 shift? How do you know the line pressure Is low? To me it looks like you know very little about transmissions. Appears you are reading off a spec sheet from someone’s advertisement. Do you have an invoice showing what is actually inside the transmission? How about the labor costs? What is the actual issue with your trans? Falls on it’s face on the 2/3 shift refers to what? $4k seems pretty steep for just a normal performance rebuild. Something fishy with this whole deal. What did the shop say? Complaining about someone on a forum isn’t going to fix your car. Just my 2 cents.
Doug

The only way I see a transmission swap eating a bearing is if something is fishy in the torque converter causing the install to put forward pressure on the crankshaft which would eat the thrust bearing? If this was the case I'd think there would be even more problems.

 

[Daves69]

..........Analyzing the oil is brilliant Unfortunately don't have the luxury of time on my side, got a race coming up I can't afford to lose or worst, forfeit as a NO SHOW............

But you can change your filter and open the old one up to see what's in it.
An automatic can wear out a thrust bearing and crank. Maybe you can put a camera on your balancer to see if the crank is moving fore and aft through a range of RPM.

FWIW..........

 

[yella71]

never mind guys ,its BS

 

[Dave6T4]

I have probably rebuilt 75 Torqueflights over the past 35 years, and fail to see the connection of a poor transmission rebuild with a spun main bearing and metal in the engine oil. I have, however, had drive plate to crankshaft bolts loosen up. This results in a sound that resembles bearing problems. Always use Red Locktite, fresh bolts, and torque to factory spec's, when bolting up drive plate and torque convertor.

 

[Sparky Anderson]

What a shame, if you know how to work with tools, I am sure you could of rebuilt that transmission your self, it's one of the easiest to build and you could of done better work for under a thousand dollars with all the parts. There's a ton of you tube videos to walk you threw it. Plus when done the rebuild, u get that great feeling and walking around with your chest all swelled up. This is a classic example, if you love your old mopar, don't be afraid to fix it yourself, unless u have a ton of money. Very sorry to hear what happened to you, hope u get it fixed at no cost.

 

[Thrashingcows]

What a shame, if you know how to work with tools, I am sure you could of rebuilt that transmission your self, it's one of the easiest to build and you could of done better work for under a thousand dollars with all the parts. There's a ton of you tube videos to walk you threw it. Plus when done the rebuild, u get that great feeling and walking around with your chest all swelled up. This is a classic example, if you love your old mopar, don't be afraid to fix it yourself, unless u have a ton of money. Very sorry to hear what happened to you, hope u get it fixed at no cost.

I needed the 727 in my 68 T/C wagon rebuilt a number of years ago, called and visited a few local shops and was appalled at the prices and questioned the work places, so decided since I have rebuilt pretty much everything BUT an auto tranny I should just suck it up and do it. Lots of research, a factory service manual and a few hundred dollars in parts and I have a totally rebuilt 727 that works flawlessly.

I think auto transmissions are more intimidating them complex to rebuild.;)

 

[dirrk]

I agree with Sparky. I'm not that much of a gearhead but I have rebuilt 2 torqueflites with great success. Now I KNOW whats inside and the care that was used putting it together. There is a virtual tranny class on you-tube. That plus the factory manual will make it easy. I had to fabricate a couple of simple fixtures and away we go. It is a great feeling. Some trannys are a bitch, requiring fancy tools and jigs.....not the T/F.

 

[dvw]

The biggest issue you have to watch for is swapping parts from different years. It can be done but if you don't know what fits ask someone who does. Other that that I always find the only two things that will be tough for a beginner. #1 installing the forward clutch piston. The outer seal can be a pain. I put a large zip tie around it and put the piston seal assy in the freezer for10-15 minutes. #2 making sure the input shaft is all the way down on the output shaft. The clutch teeth can get hung up wiggle and make sure its setting on the #2 thrust washer. No comments from the original poster, um?
Doug

 

[Dave6T4]

The biggest issue you have to watch for is swapping parts from different years. It can be done but if you don't know what fits ask someone who does. Other that that I always find the only two things that will be tough for a beginner. #1 installing the forward clutch piston. The outer seal can be a pain. I put a large zip tie around it and put the piston seal assy in the freezer for10-15 minutes. #2 making sure the input shaft is all the way down on the output shaft. The clutch teeth can get hung up wiggle and make sure its setting on the #2 thrust washer. No comments from the original poster, um?
Doug

One trick I do, is not put the large outer seal on the pump o.d. when putting pump in for first time to check input shaft end play. It makes it a lot easier to get pump out to make thrust wafer adjustment or seat that last clutch. Once everything is o.k., pull the pump, put the seal on, and slam it all back together. I use engine assembly lube on rubber seals and metal seal rings. It seems to be more slippery than just ATF. I always do a bit of a "shift kit" as well. On garden variety Torquefights, I take the solid heavy weights out of the governor assembly and have them machined down to hipo specs. Removing weight from them raises shift point. I use either 8 or 9 springs in direct clutch, depending on style of piston.