Guess there really is a first time for everything......Chevy engine on my 'Mopar' engine stand in my shop!!! Got a question or two....

[69Bee]

There is a stamp pad as stated. Casting numbers supposedly mean different things too. Lots of people swear by 010 as a seasoned, high nickel and therefore stronger block. No 4 bolt main 327’s so most people have gone to a 350 block to create one with a 305 crank. I think that’s how it was……..

Oh ya, watch out for the ease of attaining parts and the affordability of them. It’s hard to get used to.

283: Bore 3.875", Stroke 3.000"
302: Bore 4.000", Stroke 3.000"
305: Bore 3.738", Stroke 3.484"
307: Bore 3.875", Stroke 3.250"
327: Bore 4.000", Stroke 3.250"
350: Bore 4.000", Stroke 3.484"

'67 and down is a "Small Journal" ~2.298" Mains and 2.000" Rods
'68 and up is a "Large Journal" ~2.448" Mains and 2.100" Rods

 

[33 IMP]

No. '67-'68 were "DM" and '69 was DZ. BUT, that is for 302's in the Z28 engine.

Edit, just expanding on what you said.

My real 68 Z28 302 was large journal, and an MO block.
I traded it straight across, for a carbs-to-pan 426 maxwedge.

 

[69Bee]

....IF it hasn't been decked. Deck a small chevy=numbers gone.

Not if you are careful!! I decked a numbers matching '69 DZ over a $100k Camaro and did not touch the VIN. Wasn't easy, but I did it...

 

[69Bee]

My real 68 Z28 302 was large journal, and an MO block.
I traded it straight across, for a carbs-to-pan 426 maxwedge.

I mis-remembered, LOL... "MO" '68 302 and "MP" is a '67 302

 

[33 IMP]

I mis-remembered, LOL... "MO" '68 302 and "MP" is a '67 302

No worries.
A friend of mine in the mid seventies showed up with his new to him 68 camaro, bought off the used car lot at a chevy dealer. Was told it was a 275hp 327. I looked it over.....
12 bolt, traction bar, four speed with a Muncie shifter, chrome valve covers, open element aircleaner, holley, aluminum intake, .....and a solid lifter tick.

An UNmarked, (like the unmarked '67 Z's) early production Z28, that the DEALER didn't even know what they had, and my friend didn't know what he bought.

 

[69Bee]

No worries.
A friend of mine in the mid seventies showed up with his new to him 68 camaro, bought off the used car lot at a chevy dealer. Was told it was a 275hp 327. I looked it over.....
12 bolt, traction bar, four speed with a Muncie shifter, chrome valve covers, open element aircleaner, holley, aluminum intake, .....and a solid lifter tick.

An UNmarked, (like the unmarked '67 Z's) early production Z28, that the DEALER didn't even know what they had, and my friend didn't know what he bought.

Yep, "Snowflake" aluminum intake, and, if correct, a Duntov 30-30 solid cam. The '69 I did, the customer put his own valve covers on, and noticed the rockers were very loose. He asked if I adjusted the valves because he could rotate the rocker off of the valve. I told him that the rocker lash was 0.026"/0.026" per the Lunati "Duntov grind" cam card. He never had an issue. They had a reputation for being able to rev to 10k, due to the cam and the very short stroke.

 

[Mopar Hunter]

 

[DeltaV]

Looks like the beginnings of a what's it worth thread. BTW, how much do you want for it?



Mopar 318 is to FABO as Chevy 327 is to what?

 

[guy gadbois]

Numbers stamped on the pad will tell you lots, but if theyre gone or pre stamping old enough, you can look at the casting numbers on the block itself; depending upon year etc, look on the top of the block behind the distributor 'hole' and / or on the block side, usually on teh driver side towards the rear. That number will tell you what it started life as.
As has been noted, its not a 327 if its 4 bolt main, but just because its 2 bolt doesnt mean it is....; gotta have those casting numbers or get serious about measuring bore and stroke.

 

[gtx6970]

The pad is on the passenger side, front deck, behind the alternator. I only need the last 1-2-or 3 letters of the larger (Size) number. Sometimes on one (the large number set) is stamped and other times it will have the two sets. I can look up the "Suffix" part of the stamp and give you all the info on the block as far as year, size, and what it came out of.

This,

Similar to how a 383 is marked

 

[Budnicks]

283: Bore 3.875", Stroke 3.000"
302: Bore 4.000", Stroke 3.000"
305: Bore 3.738", Stroke 3.484"
307: Bore 3.875", Stroke 3.250"
327: Bore 4.000", Stroke 3.250"
350: Bore 4.000", Stroke 3.484"

'67 and down is a "Small Journal" ~2.298" Mains and 2.000" Rods
'68 and up is a "Large Journal" ~2.448" Mains and 2.100" Rods

you forgot 400cid; 4.125" bore, stroke 3.75"
&
265cid (early SBC) 3.75" bore, stroke 3"
started production in 1954,
that started it all, but who cares about them

 

[69Bee]

you forgot 400cid; 4.125" bore, stroke 3.75"
&
265cid (early SBC) 3.75" bore, stroke 3"
started production in 1954,
that started it all, but who cares about them

No, I didn't forget about them, I was only interested in 283 to 350 for the bore and stroke combinations.

 

[moparedtn]

Wow, hardcore Mopar people!! Come on, we all like to play around with a Chevy once in a while... Lots of fun, until somebody sees you on one!!! haha

No. No, "we all" don't....
Chevies are great to learn the basics on - I had my share of them as a teen - but at some point, a fella has to
progress and move on, eh?

I was playing with one not long ago, its still here

How do you deal with the stench?

Set fire to the shop......a ritual burning....that should get rid of the demons.

Demons OUT!!

View attachment 1681714

Sorry, I think I just threw up in my mouth a little....

 

[Krooser]

I have a soft spot in my head for 327's.

When I worked at two Chevy stores in 1968 I always enjoyed a nice road test in a 350 or 365 horse 327.

They kinda ran better than one would expect kinda like a 340.

I have four Chevy valve covers and an oil pan under a bench in my shop... And one cyl. head as I recall.

Please don't think badly of me...

 

[1STMP]

Wow, hardcore Mopar people!! Come on, we all like to play around with a Chevy once in a while... Lots of fun, until somebody sees you on one!!! haha

In my 54 years as a legally
licensed driver, I can honestly claim to never
having laid a wrench on a
Chevy motor.
Lots of AMC, Fords, and one
Mopar.
Ford trucks are tough, AMC
Jeeps are cool, and my 1940
custom built Plymouth is the
bomb.

 

[1STMP]

No. No, "we all" don't....
Chevies are great to learn the basics on - I had my share of them as a teen - but at some point, a fella has to
progress and move on, eh?


How do you deal with the stench?


View attachment 1681861
Demons OUT!!


View attachment 1681862
Sorry, I think I just threw up in my mouth a little....

Careful there Ed....
Your beginning to sound like
Richard. /s

 

[RemCharger]

Careful there Ed....
Your beginning to sound like
Richard. /s

RickHead?

 

[1STMP]

RickHead?

@Richard Cranium

 

[1STMP]

@Richard Cranium

Never thought it would happen and for sure not this late in life! At least it's one of the good ones....I think. It's a 327 with .030 over pop up pistons but so far I can't find a brand marking but haven't looked real hard yet. Anyways, are there any identifying numbers or markings on these things that will give a hint as to what it came out of?? A steel small block crank that's marked 327 came with it but haven't put a mic to it if that will tell me anything but not sure yet what crank is in the engine. Will be pulling the pan off soon to check what's inside and will pull a main and rod cap to see what the bearings look like. It's looks to be used but my old friend did squirt oil into the cylinders but never covered it while sitting on a stand in a damp garage so maybe it's just dirty from sitting for so long. And yup, this is the first time a Chevy engine has ever disgraced my shop LOL

Paint it Dodge blue, might
ease your conscience some.

 

[moparedtn]

Careful there Ed....
Your beginning to sound like
Richard. /s

For a multitude of reasons, I don't think there's much chance of that happening.