Dad's69RR
Well-Known Member
No continuity at terminals on trans either. I do have to say I do not trust this meter either.
Does it show continuity when you touch the meter leads together! It sounds like one of two things a bad switch or trans not shifting fully into reverse. Have you driven your car since the rebuild does it feel normal when shifted to reverse? I’m betting your reverse switch is bad.No continuity at terminals on trans either. I do have to say I do not trust this meter either.
It feels normal shifting in reverse. The switch was new several years ago but tranny and engine have been out and put back in. I will verify no continuity at the switch when I get my good multi meter and order a new switch.Does it show continuity when you touch the meter leads together! It sounds like one of two things a bad switch or trans not shifting fully into reverse. Have you driven your car since the rebuild does it feel normal when shifted to reverse? I’m betting your reverse switch is bad.
One last thing before I get some grub, where do you think my ground issue is for fuel and temp gauges? Circuit board is new, I ran a ground from fuel sender to chassis. Should I run a separate ground from dash to chassis somewhere?Sounds good let me know what you find when you get the fluke
The fuel,oil pressure and temp gauges all use the same limiter so if none work it’s either the limiter or maybe a ground issue on the dash. You can use your good meter to check the resistance between the chassis and your dash frame. Did a new limiter get installed when the work was done to the gauges?One last thing before I get some grub, where do you think my ground issue is for fuel and temp gauges? Circuit board is new, I ran a ground from fuel sender to chassis. Should I run a separate ground from dash to chassis somewhere?
Oil light works. No fuel or tempThe fuel,oil pressure and temp gauges all use the same limiter so if none work it’s either the limiter or maybe a ground issue on the dash. You can use your good meter to check the resistance between the chassis and your dash frame.
Ok I keep forgetting we’re working on a plymouth so you have the sweeping speedo I’m thinking dodge rally dash.Oil light works. No fuel or temp
Yes with new circuit board in dash. According to instrument specialties everything bench tested so assuming limiter was good.Ok I keep forgetting we’re working on a plymouth so you have the sweeping speedo I’m thinking dodge rally dash.
the oil light do use the limiter. Has the voltage limiter been changed?
If they bench tested good it’s almost gotta be a ground issue. Grab a bite and let me take a look at a schematic and I’ll report back.Yes with new circuit board in dash. According to instrument specialties everything bench tested so assuming limiter was good.
Will limiter look the same with new circuit board?the 12v power feed for the limiter is tapped off of the brake warning light 12v feed. so you need to verify 12 volts to the
limiter and it’s the center pin on it. do this with the key on of course.
Let me check.Does your dash lights work?
Yes dash lights workDoes your dash lights work?
Ok so your dash ground is good then or they wouldn’t work. Is your engine to chassis ground presentYes dash lights work
Is there a place this is typically located because I am not seeing one. I could just be missing it.Ok so your dash ground is good then or they wouldn’t work. Is your engine to chassis ground present
It should be bolted to the firewall and attached to the back of the right head. Look between the ballast resistor and voltage regulator on the fire wall and it should be bolted to the firewall and run down to the head.Is there a place this is typically located because I am not seeing one. I could just be missing it.