Dad's69RR
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Bee you may have just solved the mystery it is not there! I will do that first thing in the morning and let you know. Cross your fingers and a big Thanks for your help!
Guys too many threads to search need help!
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Good deal make sure you get a clean paint free connection under each point of it. Also while your at it try grounding the sending wire from the temp sending unit directly to the negative post on the battery then turn the key to run and see if the temp gauge moves if it does don’t leave the key on any longer than to let it go
full scale or you risk damaging the gauge.
Dad's69RR
Well-Known Member
Will do
Ok Bee I grounded firewall to engine and grounded temp wire with key on and gauge did not move.
On a positive note I checked continuity for back up harness and touched both prongs to breakout wire for z slot and have continuity!
So gotta wonder now about a few things.
the voltage limiter has a ground prong that goes into the circuit board that’s the same ground used for your instrument lighting.
The center prog on the limiter is the 12v source that’s part of the source for the brake warning lamp that’s on the circuit board as well. i’m starting to question that limiter for sure have you verified that the limiter is present?
the voltage limiter has a ground prong that goes into the circuit board that’s the same ground used for your instrument lighting.
The center prog on the limiter is the 12v source that’s part of the source for the brake warning lamp that’s on the circuit board as well. i’m starting to question that limiter for sure have you verified that the limiter is present?
Dad's69RR
Well-Known Member
I haven’t but will in a minute.
any chance you got a pic of the circuit board before installation?
Dad's69RR
Well-Known Member
Best I could do from underneath. Looking up the Amp meter to far right with fuel gauge next to it and above looks like resistor and capacitor?
pretty good pics I see that’s an updated board with the built in limiter. I would recommend calling instrument specialty to see if they can give you some ideas to trouble shoot the gauges. You need to check the round pins in the round connector to be sure they are fitting tight on the pins on the board and check the wires from there out to the temp and fuel senders to be certain they are good.
Dad's69RR
Well-Known Member
I noticed that the resistor or blade looking thing in picture with hole in it looks as if it is loose and has silicone like at the base?? It sort of flops?
At this point I would prove the circuits from the round pin out and through the bulkhead and connector behind the driver side kick panel (that’s the fuel sending unit wire route) and if those were good low resistance values I would pull the cluster and bench test it.
Have you made any progress on the gauges?
Dad's69RR
Well-Known Member
Planning to prove circuits today. Connected breakout wire to z slot and still no backup lights.
Dad's69RR
Well-Known Member
I attempted several things with the latest not being able to find out results until a new fusible link shows up. The one on the car had area around blade connector that was melted. I also disconnected all of bulkhead connectors and found purple wire blade pushed out some not clicked in. Reinstalled correctly and also verified backup breakout was secured in slot. Cleaned all with electrical cleaner. I have been in contact with Instrument Specialties and they are in contact with new circuit board manufacturer about the integrated limiter. As soon as fusible link gets here and I hear back from Instrument I will give you an update.
Dad's69RR
Well-Known Member
Ok Bee here is where it stands. I have checked out circuits from round pin connector and all checks out. I did install new fusible link which of wouldn’t make a difference but had to be done. I grounded temp wire and fuel wire with key on again and nothing happens. It has to be built in limiter and it makes me so mad!! Brand new everything and I am in a pickle, do not want to remove glass to get the dash out and it will be almost impossible to change circuit board without damaging a really expensive dash resto trying to get cluster out. Either I run with no fuel or temp or have to attempt cluster pull.
Onto something else for now. I pulled speedo from tranny and everything looks correct but still have no speedo function. It is a new speedo cable and it worked prior to sending dash out so I assume correct speedo gear. I wiggled back in and double checked engagement at dash. Anything else I can try? Also order new backup harness could not get continuity through harness but has signal at switch.
Onto something else for now. I pulled speedo from tranny and everything looks correct but still have no speedo function. It is a new speedo cable and it worked prior to sending dash out so I assume correct speedo gear. I wiggled back in and double checked engagement at dash. Anything else I can try? Also order new backup harness could not get continuity through harness but has signal at switch.
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Take the speedometer cable off at the transmission. Run it with a cordless drill IN REVERSE and see if the speedometer works.
Dad's69RR
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Ok I have seen this on thread before but someone commented it would damage. I will give this a try. Thanks
Dad's69RR
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Assuming if it works then connection at gear bad?
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Dad's69RR
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Ok Thanks for the test. It works when I spin it with a drill. Now I guess what would be wrong at tranny?
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Yes if the speedometer works.. then the transmission gear is not installed properly. The "gear" holder has to be oriented to match the # of teeth on the gear. # of teeth locations are marked on the front face. The correct tooth count number has to be lined up with the mark on the housing.
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