Tori
Well-Known Member
I need 5/16 x 18. 3/4" long would be ideal, but i can cut to length. Hex needs to be no more than 5/16" wrench size.
Header bolt #2 cyl - WTH !
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I need 5/16 x 18. 3/4" long would be ideal, but i can cut to length. Hex needs to be no more than 5/16" wrench size.
Jackpot50
Well-Known Member
Then you will break the ball off in there.
Headman same thing put some locktite on it put it in first, tighten it with a good open end wrench. Don't use cheap header bolts.
Tori
Well-Known Member
Just bought this bolt and will give it a try on lunch today... Not my first choice, but gotta start somewhere.
Jackpot50
Well-Known Member
Bad Idea, if it strips your screwed!
Tori
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True
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TTI sells them!
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these came on my TTI headers for the hemi
Tori
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I have all those, but they won't work. It's not the access to the bolt that is the problem. Its room around the bolt to actually turn it. As soon as you slide the open end of a wrench onto the bolt and turn it, the jaws hit the tube of the header and push the wrench off the hex.
Tori
Well-Known Member
Doesn't the Hemi use 3/8" bolts ?
threewood
Well-Known Member
Drill through the header and weld in a sleeve so you can get a straight shot at it! Lol
Get a reduced head (3/8") header bolt and put that sucker in first. My RB 1 7/8" header is the same way but I can get a small 3/8" wrench in there.
Get a reduced head (3/8") header bolt and put that sucker in first. My RB 1 7/8" header is the same way but I can get a small 3/8" wrench in there.
BeeKool
Well-Known Member
You can't even get 1/16th or 32nd of a turn with the plug and wire removed and a shorty wrench.. Sounds more like a Ford problem...
Best of luck.
Perhaps do some grinding to the jaws of a wrench.
Tori
Well-Known Member
ITS A 5/16" BOLT
Tori
Well-Known Member
Just ordered these and will see if this slightly smaller hex will do the trick.
I'll let you know how this turns out.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hed-09007/overview/
I'll let you know how this turns out.
https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/hed-09007/overview/
Bladecutter
"Pursuit of Shape"
Yeah, that crossed my mind before. I had the same problem with the headers on a 440 in a class c motorhome. Considering how deformed the tube was from beating on it to get some clearance, i honestly don't think a a sleeve in the tube could **** up flow anymore than a tube being manhandled with a ball peen hammer....yep, a sleeve just large enough to accomodate the shank of a torx or allen.
these will solve ur problem
wsutard
Well-Known Member
The header design is the bane of my existence. Not only does it cover the exhaust bolt perfectly it also makes changing the plugs on #5 and #7 a pain in the ***.
As for the bolt itself, once you get the headman bolts in there you will be able to take 1/16 turns on it. Flipping the wrench each time. I also use a crows foot and an extension to torque it up with a torque wrench. Remflex headers are great and they only require 20ftlbs to torque correctly.
As for the bolt itself, once you get the headman bolts in there you will be able to take 1/16 turns on it. Flipping the wrench each time. I also use a crows foot and an extension to torque it up with a torque wrench. Remflex headers are great and they only require 20ftlbs to torque correctly.
BeeKool
Well-Known Member
I'm kinda wondering why a motor home would have headers instead of manifolds.
The doghouse and inside of that motor home would be hot as hell.
As a kid growing up our motor home was a Dodge cruise air with a 440. With plain 'ol manifolds it got hot inside That thing whilst drivin'
Tori
Well-Known Member
Headers on a motorhome are very common. For power gains and because the manifolds overheat and crack. So there's two reasons people were installing them.
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IMO The 12 pt heads are far better in tight areas
a lot more ways to get a 3/8th in. box wrench on them
ARP sells them like $18 5/16"-18 x 3/4 or 1" with 12 pt head
in either black oxidized {prone to rust} or stainless steel
that's if;
if you can get into the area enough, to get the box wrench over it
if you need to use crows feet etc. you'll need to go with
the six point/hex head design
in a 3/8's head for some added clearances
Stage 8 sells some decent header-bolts with a locking mech.
so you don't have to constantly retighten em'...
I various style...
good luck
a lot more ways to get a 3/8th in. box wrench on them
ARP sells them like $18 5/16"-18 x 3/4 or 1" with 12 pt head
in either black oxidized {prone to rust} or stainless steel
that's if;
if you can get into the area enough, to get the box wrench over it
if you need to use crows feet etc. you'll need to go with
the six point/hex head design
in a 3/8's head for some added clearances
Stage 8 sells some decent header-bolts with a locking mech.
so you don't have to constantly retighten em'...
I various style...
good luck
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