Header bolt removal

[redline]

I would like to remove the studs in the heads for the exhaust and install bolts to install headers. They seem to be hard to remove easily any suggestions would be helpful before I screw up the threads trying.

 

[Pistol Pete]

Heat -heat-heat. Heat is your friend.

 

[WileE]

Put 2 nuts on the stud & turn the inside one to unscrew the stud. Don't forget you have water jackets when you use bolts. I prefer studs, & usually only need 2 bolts for most headers on BB.

 

[66 coronet deluxe]

Try the double jam nut technique. Jam two nuts tightly together on the stud with two wrenches. Then I would heat the head area around the stud up with propane. Then get a good 6 point wrench on the inner nut and crank. I would either use a double wrench or pipe for leverage. Basicly what the other guys said.

 

[Al K]

May I offer a bit of advice here? Having just experienced the joy of putting pipes on the '64/RB combo,I can say this: You may not be able to get a bolt behind the pipes on cylinders #1&2. I left my original studs in and just used new nuts. A lot depends on the design of your headers. If you can get a bolt through there and want to use bolts,make sure you use sealer on the threads,as a couple of them go into the water jacket(at least on b/RB mills).

I'm sure you'll get more advice;all good. We don't allow bad advice here.

The B-body header design makes a dramatic turn after the port,as you can see:

 

[Meep-Meep]

I'll agree with Al. I have never used bolts on my big block headers. In some cases you will have to start the nut with the header flange slightly off the ports. Also the studs make it easier to install and retain the gaskets while you bolt things up.

 

[HEMI-ITIS]

May I offer a bit of advice here? Having just experienced the joy of putting pipes on the '64/RB combo,I can say this: You may not be able to get a bolt behind the pipes on cylinders #1&2. I left my original studs in and just used new nuts. A lot depends on the design of your headers. If you can get a bolt through there and want to use bolts,make sure you use sealer on the threads,as a couple of them go into the water jacket(at least on b/RB mills).

I'm sure you'll get more advice;all good. We don't allow bad advice here.

The B-body header design makes a dramatic turn after the port,as you can see:

Well I say listen to Al K,he's an expert now!!:bootyshake:
Read this>>>>>> http://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/showthread.php?t=16325

 

[redline]

I think i will try a mini starter and try to leave the studs. When I pull the header away from the engine to clear the studs it hits the starter and they won't clear the flange. Thanks for advise.

 

[Al K]

I think i will try a mini starter and try to leave the studs. When I pull the header away from the engine to clear the studs it hits the starter and they won't clear the flange. Thanks for advise.

Whoa,whoa,whoa...You have headers on now? With a stock starter? What year/model of car and engine involved? I'm only an "expert"(Thanks Al:icon_axe on early B-body/RB-engine issues. Beyond that...consult Dr. Phil.

Seriously;toss out some pics and more info,please. This crew has saved my money and sanity numerous times(As always-THANKS!!!);they'll definitely be able to help you.

I'll also apologize for not taking more photos when I did my install. Kind of difficult with tools in each hand,no help(my preference,though),and a strong desire to finish the job.

 

[Propwash]

Heat -heat-heat. Heat is your friend.

Yes indeed...#1 thing to start with if penetrating oil don't pan out..

I'd stick with studs..unless you like dumping antifreeze everytime you want to remove your headers/gaskets....

 

[Gpuller]

I found that double nutting the studs works best for removal. When installing my headers I ended up with some with studs and some with bolts. Some spots the header bolts with the smaller head (3/8 hex) worked best clearance wise. Just make sure you have long enough header bolts. My new headers had thicker flanges than the old ones so the old bolts weren't too short.

 

[Pistol Pete]

All good advice, but truth be told, if the studs are in good shape, you're better off leaving them in. The problem with removing them is that usually you get one or two out then get a few cranks of the wrench on the third one and snap ! your day is ruined. Now you're faced with running the headers sans one fastener, ensuring a leak or removing the head and bringing it to a machine shop. And yes, you will be bringing it to a shop because chances are it twisted off 1/8" below the deck surface. This is, of course, after you mangle whats left of it by using the drill bit/easy out method you were convinced might work.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not trying to piss in your Cornflakes here. It's just this is one of those things that often spiral into the "why the hell didn't I leave this alone" catagory.

 

[68sportsatelliteragtop]

I'd go with the studs if possible.

 

[Red63440]

I have a set of 915 heads at the shop now for a complete rebuild and both studs were broken when I bought the heads. One even with the surface and the other one was sticking up about 3/4" but with no threads left. I could have fulled with them by why take a chance, they have the tools and expertise to do it right.