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Headliner insulation?

Myasylum

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Hello,

I'm about to buy new headliner for my 72 body.
I see on Legendays website they also have insulation, and sound proofing.
The sound proofing is $200.00.

What is actually the best way about going about this? Is the insulation necessary, is the soundproofing helpful?

Thanks!!
 
Since most sound proofing or thermal insulation has overlapping shared positive qualities, I've always been of the camp, you can never have too much since weight is seldom much ,and if one can afford the cost.
The $200 does sound a bit high. Roof sound proofing is more about absorption/reflection, not transmission, meaning it does not need to have much mass to be beneficial, IMO
 
Legendary has the soundproofing backorder for 91 days anyway. Maybe I'll try some other material. Kilmat or whatever it's called.
Wasn't sure how much room I have between the headliner and the roof, if adding both insulation and soundproofing would be to thick?
 
Legendary has the soundproofing backorder for 91 days anyway. Maybe I'll try some other material. Kilmat or whatever it's called.
Wasn't sure how much room I have between the headliner and the roof, if adding both insulation and soundproofing would be to thick?
Just install the mat between the support braces.
Mike
 
There is 15% off at Legendary this weekend too! I don't see a code though. Hopefully it comes off at end of purchase.
 
Just wondering, if you put Killmat on the roof skin won't it melt in the summer????
 
Just wondering, if you put Killmat on the roof skin won't it melt in the summer????
Explain first what purpose installing it would solve?
Not to be ridiculous, but that mat's intended(?) purpose is to reduce transmission, so unless your very loud car stereo bothers your neighbors when you arrive home, because you have a wimpy mufflers, or you need to do in car remote live pod casts at the airport under aircraft approach to the airport, it will achieve little, IMO.
 
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I have wondered that myself, if sound deadener will really prove anything at all. However, an old car that sounds, and drives tight as a new car does seem to have some benefits.

Also, I do want to add some sort of rust proofing, hoping Kitmat would stick to the rust proofing. That stuff coming down on headliner does seem pretty awful.
 
My upholstery guy uses closed cell foam sheet for his headliner installs. Insulation helps slow the solar gain in your vehicle. It is getting hotter each summer.
Mike
 
Added 2mm butyl mat and 10mm closed foam type insulation on the roof on my 68. Did brush some epoxy before install. Im pleased with the result dampens any rattles and feels more solid overall. No problem installing bow type headliner. Might want to use black foam without aluminium paper tho, but dont matter too much with my white headliner tho.. get good quality stuff with good adhesive backing tho
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I talked to an interior guy, he said any sound deadener like Killmat or whatever is already way better than just the original insulation that was used in the day.
 
I talked to an interior guy, he said any sound deadener like Killmat or whatever is already way better than just the original insulation that was used in the day.
Based on what? His deep and long experience with acoustics and/or his college level thermodynamics training?
 
I used a black light weight acoustic sound proofing matting similar to wet suit material with a sticky back I've used this on the roof, pillars & parcel shelf as sound travels though the truck area from exhaust to road noise what a difference it makes.Don't use dynomat heavy type insulation as gravity always wins in the end
 
Based on what? His deep and long experience with acoustics and/or his college level thermodynamics training?
I’m sorry, but not everything in this hobby has to be thought out by an engineer to be useful. It’s common sense here, insulation will help with the summer heat, as a barrier between the roof and the cabin. It will also help with sound transference. Exactly how much is irrelevant, it will help. I used foil backed insulation cut and glued between the structural bracing, and a sound deadening floor mat. The difference is pretty pronounced, compared to driving with neither of these items. Add the new boot for the shifter, and my cabin is quite a bit quieter, real world results!
 
I put the Silas stuff on my roof a couple of weeks ago and it makes a difference. It simply attenuates the vibration of the steel panels. When I knocked on my roof before, I heard the usual sharp, hollow "knock". With the sound insulation, I hear a solid, dull "thump". The sound doesn't go away, but it seems less sharp, jangly, and intrusive.

Once I get my headliner back in, I plan to cover the firewall, rear wheel wells, door skins, then as much of the floor as I can before I run out. The floor will be covered in jute-backed carpet and I have a can Second Skin undercoating that I'm going to apply under the car.

The car will never be quiet by modern standards, but this stuff is cheap, available, and helps insulate against sound and heat, so I'm in. The only downside I see is that once it's in, you will have to battle the devil to get it off!
 
If I went for the headliner that Legendary Auto sells, what kind of glue is used so it won't come down in the heat?
 
I’m sorry, but not everything in this hobby has to be thought out by an engineer to be useful. It’s common sense here, insulation will help with the summer heat, as a barrier between the roof and the cabin. It will also help with sound transference. Exactly how much is irrelevant, it will help. I used foil backed insulation cut and glued between the structural bracing, and a sound deadening floor mat. The difference is pretty pronounced, compared to driving with neither of these items. Add the new boot for the shifter, and my cabin is quite a bit quieter, real world results!
No need to be sorry, unless you are breaking B Body unwritten rules about "arguing" in someone else's thread, which will apparently will get you deleted.
So, a claim based on "common sense", and no more, correct?
BTW, we weren't discussing "useful", we were discussing the "why" part, to be clear.
 
Here's the unltimate test ... Get an empty can and cut the top off. Hit the can with an object and listen to the sound it makes. Fill it with boiling water and touch your hand to it. Now empty the can and wrap it with some 1/2" felt batting and perform these same procedures. Repeat the process with some product like Dynamat. The results will speak for themselves. One thing is for sure, ANYTHING is better than nothing.
 
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