catfish774
Well-Known Member
Great, I have a set of springs already, so onto the other "stuff"...............any suggestions?
Heads, heads and heads.....pros and cons
- Thread starter catfish774
- Start date
Great, I have a set of springs already, so onto the other "stuff"...............any suggestions?
mentor70
Well-Known Member
i pulled two springs off my Trick flow heads, and they had Ferrea Valves in them, made sure they were flat..not even .002 under a straight edge. after that i was satisfied with that, put them back together and let them rip.
i might be steeping out on a line here, and after i built my Stealths heads from the ground up, i get what you professional builders are saying, BUT thats like saying OH, you bought a new car...lets pull the engine out and blue print it before you take it home.
i can tell you for a fact, as ive worked for Dodge, Mitsubishi and now Toyota as a dealer tech for over 25 yrs that factory specs are miles from what custom builders consider proper, and yet the cars run...and do ok.
i have bolted on and just run Edelbrock RPM heads, Indy SR heads and now Trickflows on my POS Ford tow car without any drama.
everyone should be VERY aware of using parts out of the box, but not scared out of it.
i might be steeping out on a line here, and after i built my Stealths heads from the ground up, i get what you professional builders are saying, BUT thats like saying OH, you bought a new car...lets pull the engine out and blue print it before you take it home.
i can tell you for a fact, as ive worked for Dodge, Mitsubishi and now Toyota as a dealer tech for over 25 yrs that factory specs are miles from what custom builders consider proper, and yet the cars run...and do ok.
i have bolted on and just run Edelbrock RPM heads, Indy SR heads and now Trickflows on my POS Ford tow car without any drama.
everyone should be VERY aware of using parts out of the box, but not scared out of it.
mentor70
Well-Known Member
i pulled two springs off my Trick flow heads, and they had Ferrea Valves in them, made sure they were flat..not even .002 under a straight edge. after that i was satisfied with that, put them back together and let them rip.
i might be stepping out on a line here, and after i built my Stealths heads from the ground up, i get what you professional builders are saying, BUT thats like saying OH, you bought a new car...lets pull the engine out and blue print it before you take it home.
i can tell you for a fact, as ive worked for Dodge, Mitsubishi and now Toyota as a dealer tech for over 25 yrs that factory specs are miles from what custom builders consider proper, and yet the cars run...and do ok.
i have bolted on and just run Edelbrock RPM heads, Indy SR heads and now Trickflows on my POS Ford tow car out of the box (with a good looking over) without any drama.
everyone should be VERY aware of using parts out of the box, but not scared out of it.
i might be stepping out on a line here, and after i built my Stealths heads from the ground up, i get what you professional builders are saying, BUT thats like saying OH, you bought a new car...lets pull the engine out and blue print it before you take it home.
i can tell you for a fact, as ive worked for Dodge, Mitsubishi and now Toyota as a dealer tech for over 25 yrs that factory specs are miles from what custom builders consider proper, and yet the cars run...and do ok.
i have bolted on and just run Edelbrock RPM heads, Indy SR heads and now Trickflows on my POS Ford tow car out of the box (with a good looking over) without any drama.
everyone should be VERY aware of using parts out of the box, but not scared out of it.
moper
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't call it stepping out of line. The return on investment is the concern of the guy paying the bill. After seeing "issues" I decided that if I was going to spend thousands I was damn sure going to get all the benfits - the highest return on investment. While your results are satisfactory by your opinion, I would bet money if any head you took and bolted right on were taken to a good shop and checked, they could be improved by doing basic valve work. That doesn't make you any more than happy with your investment. So while it sounds harsh I'm not trying to be.
mentor70
Well-Known Member
No offense taken, my Stealth heads were a mess out of the box, then i dropped 1100 at Hughes for a valve job and full CNC...then my local guy found issues with the guides that Hughes missed. I believe some heads out of the box are better than others. Trick Flow has a soild rep in the ford comunity, hopefully it will earn the same with us.
moper
Well-Known Member
I ran a dyno shop (primarilly Mustangs) back around '01 and prior to that I was moolighting at a performance machine shop. TFS has never enjoyed that good of a rep regardless of the head they produce. At least 3 "out of the box" sets on the Fox body 5.0Ls were removed due to oil use and low power. Those issues were completely addressed by a good valve job and reinstallation. It's GM, Ford, Mopar, AMC... they all have the same marginality as assemblies direct from the manufacturer. Hughes sucks. Indy is worse. That's why I just include it in the costs when I quote them.
All that being said - I hear very good things about the new Mopar BB CNC Trick Flows. I haven't held a set but heard good from reputable sources.
catfish774
Well-Known Member
I have found a good deal (911.00 shipped plus 15% off that) on a set of NIB Edelbrock heads for my Magnum block/408 build. I am just going to buy these and have my local machine shop go over them, add some MP silver springs for the camshaft I will be using and see how it works out.
Thanks for all the feedback
Thanks for all the feedback
moper
Well-Known Member
The springs need to match the camshaft you choose. Don't order them until you have the cam chosen - then order what Lunati or Comp tells you that you need.
catfish774
Well-Known Member
moper
Well-Known Member
Ok.
Just an FYI - the Comp cam requires a spring pressure rate about 7% heavier than the MP P4876062. The "right" spring will have another 30-40lbs more over the nose than that, if that's the one you've been told "will work". It will work, but you may not get the rpms you want from it.
Just an FYI - the Comp cam requires a spring pressure rate about 7% heavier than the MP P4876062. The "right" spring will have another 30-40lbs more over the nose than that, if that's the one you've been told "will work". It will work, but you may not get the rpms you want from it.
catfish774
Well-Known Member
And I asked Comp Cam tech about using the MP P5249848 silver springs (Rated for .480-.540), he checked and said they would be fine with the cam he recommended....so I am asking everyone I can about correct parts.....I returned the HV oil pump for a standard duty Melling unit.
I installed a set of Harland Sharp 1.7 ratio rockers on my other 5.9L engine, replacing the stock stamped steel rockers. I reused the stock length pushrod and encountered no clearancing issues. Wonder if there is any advantage in this build to using the 1.7 over the 1.6 ratio rollers?
Pushrods and rocker advise taken under advisement sir, thanks.
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catfish774
Well-Known Member
Hughes Engines (they seem to specialize in this type of build)offers a set of 1.6 roller rocker for this build as well, $223. Called and talked to "Dave" he seem to know exactly what I was building.
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...a2VyIEFybXMgJiBBY2Nlc3Nvcmllcw==&partid=25423
Recommended pushrod, Hughes #5260 for the build B&B 7.050 x 0.65 wall
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...Z2UgTWFnbnVt&level1=UHVzaHJvZHM=&partid=22940
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...a2VyIEFybXMgJiBBY2Nlc3Nvcmllcw==&partid=25423
Recommended pushrod, Hughes #5260 for the build B&B 7.050 x 0.65 wall
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...Z2UgTWFnbnVt&level1=UHVzaHJvZHM=&partid=22940
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