• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Here we go. One last time...

I don't understand the question, unless you're trying to be trite.
Not trying to be trite at all.

When you were trying out the transmission, it sounded like you were trying out the gears and the clutch operation while the engine was running. "I shut everything down and hobbled off to the house...."

I guess I'm anticipating some smoking tires! Lol
 
Wonder if you just put a super light spring to hold it up.
But then your back to will the pedal stick to the floor? this is an addition to first comment.
 
Last edited:
Not trying to be trite at all.

When you were trying out the transmission, it sounded like you were trying out the gears and the clutch operation while the engine was running. "I shut everything down and hobbled off to the house...."

I guess I'm anticipating some smoking tires! Lol
Ohhhhh I see. My apologies.
I was thinking "what the heck, man, everyone knows I still have to do all the stuff under the hood" LOL.
 
Wonder if you just put a super light spring to hold it up.
But then your back to will the pedal stick to the floor? this is an addition to first comment.
I'm thinking that, unless someone with one of these tells me otherwise, I'm going to go ahead and run the adjustment up until the pedal gets close to all the way up in the car - but not ALL the way. I don't want to run the risk of putting any pre-load on the throwout bearing.
The spring down at the fork is supposed to keep that from happening, but you know, just in case...

You know what the interesting thing is right now? When my wife pulls the pedal the rest of the way up with me under the car, it willingly goes up the rest of the way, but nothing further happens down at the fork when she does so.
What IS moving in the linkage when she does that is at the end of the pedal rod that sticks out through the firewall.
The end of it is oval shaped with quite a bit of travel room for the pivot on the z-bar. THAT'S where all the additional movement of the pedal is being allowed.
 
That hole in rod has to be large enough to get rod on, so there's play in that.
 
I have whatever these cars came with.
Not to repeat myself, but where I have the clutch adjusted right now the pedal doesn't "rest" all the way back up when released.
You can grab it and pull it the rest of the way back up, though.
Are you saying I should continue adjusting the clutch until the pedal does rest all the way back up?
No. You will need a small spring down on the clutch fork that will pull the fork so that the linkage pushes the clutch pedal to the up against the rubber stop positition. There is a chance that you are missing that rubber stop. .................................MO
 
I'm thinking that, unless someone with one of these tells me otherwise, I'm going to go ahead and run the adjustment up until the pedal gets close to all the way up in the car - but not ALL the way. I don't want to run the risk of putting any pre-load on the throwout bearing.
The spring down at the fork is supposed to keep that from happening, but you know, just in case...

You know what the interesting thing is right now? When my wife pulls the pedal the rest of the way up with me under the car, it willingly goes up the rest of the way, but nothing further happens down at the fork when she does so.
What IS moving in the linkage when she does that is at the end of the pedal rod that sticks out through the firewall.
The end of it is oval shaped with quite a bit of travel room for the pivot on the z-bar. THAT'S where all the additional movement of the pedal is being allowed.
Last paragraph. Hard to diagnose without being able to look at it. IF you installed a spring on the clutch fork to pull it forward and away from the throw out bearing touching the clutch "fingers" in addition to the small spring that holds your adjustment linkage together---then I would say that you have something wrong between where your linkage attaches to the pedal and where your Z bar attaches to your clutch adjuster. I don't believe that spring on the fork to pull the throw out bearing away from the clutch fingers is shown or talked about in the Centerforce directions. Evidently they don't care if it does rub.
Not to scold, but this is the reason I always say to use ALL the correct parts in doing clutch pedal change over. ....................................MO
 
No. You will need a small spring down on the clutch fork that will pull the fork so that the linkage pushes the clutch pedal to the up against the rubber stop positition. There is a chance that you are missing that rubber stop. .................................MO
Post #370. Brand new return spring is installed on the clutch fork, just like the FSM diagram shows. The purpose of that spring is to hold the throw out bearing off the clutch fingers, though, not to make the pedal return all the way.
The rubber stop is present on the pedal setup as well, but also has nothing to do with the pedal returning all the way to the top.
 
Last paragraph. Hard to diagnose without being able to look at it. IF you installed a spring on the clutch fork to pull it forward and away from the throw out bearing touching the clutch "fingers" in addition to the small spring that holds your adjustment linkage together---then I would say that you have something wrong between where your linkage attaches to the pedal and where your Z bar attaches to your clutch adjuster. I don't believe that spring on the fork to pull the throw out bearing away from the clutch fingers is shown or talked about in the Centerforce directions. Evidently they don't care if it does rub.
Not to scold, but this is the reason I always say to use ALL the correct parts in doing clutch pedal change over. ....................................MO
aaaaa.PNG

Not to scold, but have you read through all my posts from yesterday?
Pics and everything, man. :)

To recap - every part shown on this FSM pic is on the car right now, in the positions shown. ALL hardware shown is new and from Brewer's, every dang piece.
The only old parts used were the existing clutch fork and z-bar; everything else you see in this graphic is new. Heck, everything in the entire clutch setup is new, short of bellhousing, fork and z-bar.
(Note: the old 3-finger clutch setup worked fine also, no problems out of it at all)

The clutch feels great now and moves beautifully with the pedal; pedal effort is markedly less than the old 3-finger setup with that monster over-center spring attached. The Centerforce definitely feels like an "on-off" affair, something to get used to I suppose, but you can precisely feel when it's engaging/disengaging.

With there being only one point of adjustment in the whole affair, all it seems one is affecting when cranking on the adjustment nut is where in the pedal travel that on-off clutch action is occurring, which is as it should be, no different than the old factory style 3-finger clutch setup.
The only difference now is that I don't have the over-center spring pulling the pedal the rest of the way up (i.e., even with the brake pedal).
 
I've copied this post from another thread I've got going right now titled "Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch", in which I'm asking about a pedal return spring to take the place of the disconnected over-center spring in the car. Pasting here in case other folks see this thread instead of that one:

That's true of any "conventional" clutch, I think - there's the part of the pedal travel where the actual clutch engagement/disengagement takes place with any clutch, right?
As the clutch wears, that point of engagement moves higher in the pedal travel until you have to get under the car and make an adjustment to compensate for wear.
Folks have their preferences as to where in the pedal travel the clutch activates, but generally around halfway up or so.

That leaves the rest of the pedal travel above that clutch engagement point, where the pedal pretty much freewheels up to the stop for it.
On a conventional stock clutch, that is taken care of by the over-center spring, which pulls the pedal the rest of the way up without any movement or assistance of the actual clutch.

Well, we take the over-center spring off per Centerforce instructions when using this Dual Friction diaphragm clutch setup - leaving us with nothing to pull the clutch pedal the rest of the way up after clutch engagement.

That's what I'm asking about here - do I install a lighter spring under there just to do the "housework" of pulling the pedal the rest of the way up or do I even concern myself with it?
The conventional in me wants that pedal all the way up, both because it's what I'm used to AND it assures me that there's no undue pressure being exerted on the clutch by the pedal and linkage when it's not depressed.

Does that make sense?

By the way, this clutch feels fantastic. Half the pedal effort and it's very precise on the feel of engagement/disengagement. I think I'm gonna like it. :)
 
Post #370. Brand new return spring is installed on the clutch fork, just like the FSM diagram shows. The purpose of that spring is to hold the throw out bearing off the clutch fingers, though, not to make the pedal return all the way.
The rubber stop is present on the pedal setup as well, but also has nothing to do with the pedal returning all the way to the top.
OK I forgot that yours is 68? and mine is 64. There may be a difference. On mine , that spring on the fork ( not the small one that holds the clutch adjustment rod together) also holds the clutch pedal up against the rubber stop, by pushing back against all the linkage. Please let me know what you find is your problem JFMI.........................Good luck..............................MO
 
OK I forgot that yours is 68? and mine is 64. There may be a difference. On mine , that spring on the fork ( not the small one that holds the clutch adjustment rod together) also holds the clutch pedal up against the rubber stop, by pushing back against all the linkage. Please let me know what you find is your problem JFMI.........................Good luck..............................MO
Got the answer right from the horses' mouth, my friend :) :
Update on my clutch pedal question:
I have just gotten off the phone with Centerforce Tech Support.
They confirm that what I'm experiencing with the pedal is perfectly normal
and to be expected when removing the over-center spring as they direct.
He allayed my fears of any undue wear happening to the throwout bearing/
pressure plate because of this.

He also repeated what we already know - that the small spring down on the
clutch fork right next to the adjustment rod is what keeps the throwout bearing
off the fingers of the pressure plate and as long as that is present in place,
there's no worries of the linkage/pedal prematurely wearing clutch components.

Basically, it boils down to whether I can live with where the clutch pedal rests
once the clutch has been properly adjusted.
If not, a light spring can be cobbled up on the pedal arm to return it to the top,
against the rubber stop, without undue harm to anything, if that makes me feel
better.

Mystery solved. Centerforce knows this happens and they're not worried about it.
In fact, when I asked why it wasn't mentioned in their instructions, he basically said they thought that this issue may be viewed negatively by potential customers and
would harm sales, so they just omitted it.
Well, at least they're honest. :)
 
I've copied this post from another thread I've got going right now titled "Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch", in which I'm asking about a pedal return spring to take the place of the disconnected over-center spring in the car. Pasting here in case other folks see this thread instead of that one:

That's true of any "conventional" clutch, I think - there's the part of the pedal travel where the actual clutch engagement/disengagement takes place with any clutch, right?
As the clutch wears, that point of engagement moves higher in the pedal travel until you have to get under the car and make an adjustment to compensate for wear.
Folks have their preferences as to where in the pedal travel the clutch activates, but generally around halfway up or so.

That leaves the rest of the pedal travel above that clutch engagement point, where the pedal pretty much freewheels up to the stop for it.
On a conventional stock clutch, that is taken care of by the over-center spring, which pulls the pedal the rest of the way up without any movement or assistance of the actual clutch.

Well, we take the over-center spring off per Centerforce instructions when using this Dual Friction diaphragm clutch setup - leaving us with nothing to pull the clutch pedal the rest of the way up after clutch engagement.

That's what I'm asking about here - do I install a lighter spring under there just to do the "housework" of pulling the pedal the rest of the way up or do I even concern myself with it?
The conventional in me wants that pedal all the way up, both because it's what I'm used to AND it assures me that there's no undue pressure being exerted on the clutch by the pedal and linkage when it's not depressed.

Does that make sense?

By the way, this clutch feels fantastic. Half the pedal effort and it's very precise on the feel of engagement/disengagement. I think I'm gonna like it. :)
Absolutely makes sense. You are going to love that clutch when you actually get it on the road. Matter of fact, you will wonder how it can possibly hold any power. .........................MO
 
Got the answer right from the horses' mouth, my friend :) :
Update on my clutch pedal question:
I have just gotten off the phone with Centerforce Tech Support.
They confirm that what I'm experiencing with the pedal is perfectly normal
and to be expected when removing the over-center spring as they direct.
He allayed my fears of any undue wear happening to the throwout bearing/
pressure plate because of this.

He also repeated what we already know - that the small spring down on the
clutch fork right next to the adjustment rod is what keeps the throwout bearing
off the fingers of the pressure plate and as long as that is present in place,
there's no worries of the linkage/pedal prematurely wearing clutch components.

Basically, it boils down to whether I can live with where the clutch pedal rests
once the clutch has been properly adjusted.
If not, a light spring can be cobbled up on the pedal arm to return it to the top,
against the rubber stop, without undue harm to anything, if that makes me feel
better.

Mystery solved. Centerforce knows this happens and they're not worried about it.
In fact, when I asked why it wasn't mentioned in their instructions, he basically said they thought that this issue may be viewed negatively by potential customers and
would harm sales, so they just omitted it.
Well, at least they're honest. :)
I am glad for that info from Centerforce as I had the same question. Now that I recall, I didn't like the pedal being part way down and so I added the other spring. But I chose to do it on the clutch fork. ..............................MO
 
I am glad for that info from Centerforce as I had the same question. Now that I recall, I didn't like the pedal being part way down and so I added the other spring. But I chose to do it on the clutch fork. ..............................MO
Unfortunately, that won't do any good on mine. Any added spring would have to be installed somewhere from the clutch rod that pokes through the firewall up to the pedal arm.

I wanted to confirm where the "play" was when my wife lifted the pedal inside the car the rest of the way up yesterday, while I was still under the car to watch.
Nothing moved at all down at the fork end of the linkage; in fact, the entire clutch linkage from z-bar on didn't even twitch - and yes, that's a good thing. :)

What did move when she lifted the pedal was the clutch pedal rod itself, as it slid along its' slotted hole where it attaches to the z-bar pin, so I reckon I can put a light spring under the dash on the pedal if I want to.
 
By the way, the reason the z-bar fought me so hard on installation turned out to be the previous owner - again. :)
When he welded the bracket for the z-bar on the frame, he missed the mark to the inside by at least 1/2". This made for a tight squeeze for the z-bar between that bracket and the ball stud on the bellhousing.
It also shifted the Z-bar towards the bellhousing by quite a bit, which was amplified by the fact I had installed all the new hardware on the bar, including the snap ring that held the plastic bearing in a fixed position.

End result was that the z-bar was a tight fit in there and it also shifted the pivot on it down by the clutch adjustment rod closer to the bellhousing as well.
This explains why that adjuster rod comes at the clutch fork at kind of an angle.
It's off by some, but still plenty operational. With all the parts installed properly now, it operates very smoothly and quietly, too.
:thumbsup:
 
Another thing to mull over is if u put another spring on to bring up pedal ur going to have a bunch of do-nothing travel at the beginning push. To me that would feel worse than the pedal being lower like it is now. IMHO
 
Bet y'all been wondering where I've been.
Well...
Rumors of my death have been greatly exaggerated. :)
My apologies to Ghost and some others.
Before I could resume work on the car, some more crap like this occurred:
surgery.jpg


Up to it for a bit today. Header bolting time. Have I ever mentioned how much I HATE headers?
First thing I discovered is that I lost my header bolts. :-/
Cobble time. Wire brush up some junk hardware I scrounged up and fetch the RTV black:
14935716235501317606247.jpg
 
Last edited:
Lost bolts, I always blame the better-half for being in the garage!
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top