If you have more internal clearance than the pump can keep up with, then you need more volume. Low idle oil pressure when using the correct weight oil for your normal ambient operating temperature is an indicator. If you've got 15 psi or more and the pressure comes up to a reasonable number, you're good.
Doug
What he said!!
BUT! I rest easy knowing I'm moving extra oil volume through all my leaks to see those pressures.
If it is a new engine then you need to talk to the engine builder about the clearances. If clearances are wider than stock then you might need a high volume pump. Or if you have pushrod oiling or EDM lifters or something else like that then you'll want a high volume pump. The spring is another variable. You can use a low pressure spring or the high pressure spring in a high volume pump. Just depends on what the engine needs.At what point do you change to a high volume oil pump? Do you change to a higher capacity pan at the same time?
What I meant was, the extra volume provided by the pump is sufficient to see that amount of pressure with the wider clearances. Maybe that makes more sense?I'm not sure what you mean here. You are correct if you are saying that the increased volume has resulted in a more desirable pressure. However, you are incorrect if you are saying that you are getting more oil volume at the same pressure.
When I pulled my factory assembled bottom end apart it had half grooved mains. Check Clevites website to see the oil pressure loss when using 180° grooved bearings as the baseline vs. 360°.I have full groove mains w/ 0.003" clearance, rods with 0.0025". Plus my #4 cam journal is grooved for full time oiling to my rockers. Standard pump.
Full groove main bearings is not the reason to use a high volume pump. The factory used full groove bearing with the standard pump and high pressure spring.
When I pulled my factory assembled bottom end apart it had half grooved mains. Check Clevites website to see the oil pressure loss when using 180° grooved bearings as the baseline vs. 360°.
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I was referring to my 440 as an example. The chart (which I can clearly see by clicking on it) shows the potential loss in pressure with respect to increasing the grooving from 180° to 360°. It's an additional leak path. When I switched from a SV to a HV I saw a 10psi increase across the board. It's now right where I like it using the same SV spring.
Never said it's a requirement. It was a personal decision that improved the pressure readings to a more desirable level. Maybe Bob Renton can clarify things since I was discussing switching to the hv with him at that time. If someone wants to run a SV pump and is happy with what they have, fine. If not, it's always an option.Sure, that makes perfect sense. And you now have the pressure that you like. Perfect. But to imply that you need a HV pump because you have full groove main bearings is incorrect.
Never said it's a requirement. It was a personal decision that improved the pressure readings to a more desirable level. Maybe Bob Renton can clarify things since I was discussing switching to the hv with him at that time. If someone wants to run a SV pump and is happy with what they have, fine. If not, it's always an option.Sure, that makes perfect sense. And you now have the pressure that you like. Perfect. But to imply that you need a HV pump because you have full groove main bearings is incorrect.
Never said it's a requirement. It was a personal decision that improved the pressure readings to a more desirable level. Maybe Bob Renton can clarify things since I was discussing switching to the hv with him at that time. If someone wants to run a SV pump and is happy with what they have, fine. If not, it's always an option.Sure, that makes perfect sense. And you now have the pressure that you like. Perfect. But to imply that you need a HV pump because you have full groove main bearings is incorrect.