Hot running 440 60" over

[Phoenix440]

Just wondering what is the opinion on.hi flow water pumps? Searching the posts on here, seems there is some debate that hi flow doesn't always mean cooler temps?
Looking at Koomaster, Milodon and Edelbrock Victor, all sound good on paper. Anyone had experience with these brands, particularly the Victor?
Car has standard cast pump and changing pump is my last attempt to try to cool the car( runs up to 220 at 3000rpm on highway after 15 minutes.Has 26" radiator, 2 x 14" fans, water wetter, 160 Mr Gasket thermostat. Thanks in advance.

 

[Michael_]

I would assume that if the surface area and coolant capacity of the radiator is rather low and you add a high flow pump than the liquid cools down even less.
So that's probably why it's not always helpful.

Have you ever ran it without a thermostat? That's something you could try for free.
Getting an Infrared Temperature Gun to double check if you're temperature reading is accurate is also very cheap.

if you think it's not engine related i would probably revert back to a factory radiator, clutch fan and fan shroud setup.
I have that and mine is running @ 190°F in traffic. (or even less depending on outside temperature)
I bought my radiator from Glen-Ray Glen-ray Radiators - All New Licensed Mopar Chrysler Dodge Plymouth Radiators since the original one was gone and i'm very happy with it.

 

[Rick62]

My '62 convertible had a .060 over 440 with AC. I used the factory radiator, shroud, fan and fan clutch. With a 180 thermostat it never exceeded 180 idling or on the highway.

 

[Rebelrouser]

Just wondering what is the opinion on.hi flow water pumps? Searching the posts on here, seems there is some debate that hi flow doesn't always mean cooler temps?
Looking at Koomaster, Milodon and Edelbrock Victor, all sound good on paper. Anyone had experience with these brands, particularly the Victor?
Car has standard cast pump and changing pump is my last attempt to try to cool the car( runs up to 220 at 3000rpm on highway after 15 minutes.Has 26" radiator, 2 x 14" fans, water wetter, 160 Mr Gasket thermostat. Thanks in advance.

View attachment 1822414

View attachment 1822415

I will tell you my experience put a bigger water pump pulley on it to increase the speed of the water pump. I had a customer we built a 512 stroker on pump gas, for a 4x4 truck and he wanted a serpentine belt system. The engine ran hot, swapped out radiators, high flow pumps, even took the heads back off and opened up the coolant holes in the head and block, changed to a bigger pulley problem solved. just use a stock A/C water pump. From your picture the pulley looks small to me.

 

[QuickBpBp]

Get rid of the electric fans. Put a good Clutch fan on it and a fan shroud then put a 180 degree thermostat.

 

[Ron H]

My '62 convertible had a .060 over 440 with AC. I used the factory radiator, shroud, fan and fan clutch. With a 180 thermostat it never exceeded 180 idling or on the highway.

I did some similar with my ’63 finding an OEM shroud, switching from 4-blade to 7. There were a few other things I did keeping the original radiator. A new one was on deck if I didn’t obtain satisfactory temps. Read about electric fans with too many unhappy reports with them though some loved ‘em. Decided not to go that route.

 

[cosgig]

Temp rising on the highway equals insufficient airflow. The electric fans are undoubtably limiting airflow. Is your radiator support to hood seal in place? Lower splash pan to radiator support seal in place? The factory setup is to trap air in front of the radiator support, the clutch fan pulls the air through the conical shaped shroud through the radiator, creating a vacuum, which “funnels” the air through the radiator. Your fans are blocking that process.

 

[not so famous bob]

Get rid of the electric fans. Put a good Clutch fan on it and a fan shroud then put a 180 degree thermostat.

^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^this ^^^^^^^^^^^^^


^^^^^^^^^^^
you could even try a front spoiler of some sorts, might make one to get hi way air in to your rad more...but , see first sentence...

 

[icetech]

First thing i always check is the radiator for cold spots while running.. being that new i doubt it, but worth checking... if you need a new one check out ECP, they use large oval cores which more surface area.. also.. 180 thermostat..

 

[Tony Tee]

I will tell you my experience put a bigger water pump pulley on it to increase the speed of the water pump. I had a customer we built a 512 stroker on pump gas, for a 4x4 truck and he wanted a serpentine belt system. The engine ran hot, swapped out radiators, high flow pumps, even took the heads back off and opened up the coolant holes in the head and block, changed to a bigger pulley problem solved. just use a stock A/C water pump. From your picture the pulley looks small to don't

I will tell you my experience put a bigger water pump pulley on it to increase the speed of the water pump. I had a customer we built a 512 stroker on pump gas, for a 4x4 truck and he wanted a serpentine belt system. The engine ran hot, swapped out radiators, high flow pumps, even took the heads back off and opened up the coolant holes in the head and block, changed to a bigger pulley problem solved. just use a stock A/C water pump. From your picture the pulley looks small to me.

 

[Tony Tee]

Get a cheap infrared non contact thermometer and see what kind of Temps you have at the top and bottom of the radiator and everywhere else. Don't guess. Analyze.

 

[33 IMP]

Get rid of the electric fans. Put a good Clutch fan on it and a fan shroud then put a 180 degree thermostat.

Probably not the answer you were looking for..... but it's the RIGHT ONE!

I have two electrics fans on one of my cars, ONLY cause the radiator is mounted at a 30 degree angle, and there's no shroud available.

 

[WileE]

Get rid of the electric fans. Put a good Clutch fan on it and a fan shroud then put a 180 degree thermostat.

^^^ Period.

 

[R413]

Lean air fuel will make or overheat no matter what the cooling system mods are. Try a different carb just for kicks.

 

[#41]

Advice about fans and shrouds is sending you in the wrong direction. Those are solutions for low speed and idle hot run conditions. You can run a car with NO fan or shroud at all at highway speeds and remain cool because the air flow through the radiator is waaaaaaaaay more than any fan+shroud can achieve.

If you are running at 3000 rpm going down the highway and getting hot your issue is most likely a water flow restriction such as a plugged up radiator or collapsing radiator intake hose, or a large vacuum leak that is leaning out the engine. Since it looks like you have a newer radiator, I would first make sure your lower rad hose has a spring inside it, and then check for vacuum leaks at the carb base, hoses, and intake ports.... even to point of removing the intake and resealing it.

When you get it to run cool, lose the 160 thermostat. It does nothing for you except it will make the engine run cooler than is optimal once you get the real problem sorted out.

 

[twecomm]

I have a 383 automatic, stock radiator that was boiled out and refurbished some 12 years ago, stock fan and fan shroud 180 degree stat. Lower hose has spring installed. Been running a Flowkooler water pump for about 6 years now. Adding that Flowkooler made a big difference. Runs consistently at 180 or less as verified by IR gun. Even in hottest weather, will occasionally go to 190 sitting in traffic.

 

[ruffcut]

I have a 383 automatic, stock radiator that was boiled out and refurbished some 12 years ago, stock fan and fan shroud 180 degree stat. Lower hose has spring installed. Been running a Flowkooler water pump for about 6 years now. Adding that Flowkooler made a big difference. Runs consistently at 180 or less as verified by IR gun. Even in hottest weather, will occasionally go to 190 sitting in traffic.

Yep! Flowkooler water pump on my 512 with no overheating. Have AC and use a shroud and 7 blade fan. Don't need electric fans. As others have said, you can run at hiway speed with no fan. Those things are blocking air flow. JMTC. ruffcut

 

[Phoenix440]

Thanks for all the responses, looks like a better radiator and better air flow is needed.

 

[Phoenix440]

Temp rising on the highway equals insufficient airflow. The electric fans are undoubtably limiting airflow. Is your radiator support to hood seal in place? Lower splash pan to radiator support seal in place? The factory setup is to trap air in front of the radiator support, the clutch fan pulls the air through the conical shaped shroud through the radiator, creating a vacuum, which “funnels” the air through the radiator. Your fans are blocking that process.

There is no radiator lower support seal or radiator support to hood seal. Will look into buying some type of seal and see how that goes.

 

[Phoenix440]

Just a thought, the car has a reasonably large trans cooler right in the centre of the radiator, with an air gap from radiator of a few inches. Anyone think this would be causing enough restriction to cause over heating? Have thought about trying to relocate the cooler but not sure it would make much difference.