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How to destroy a 440

True, does seem very low miles to be getting on it, but

Doubtful any race car engine gets close to 400 miles (equivalent) before hitting the racetrack. I'd cry like a baby if my car came home with an engine lookin like that. BTW, agree 100 percent with the OP, the stock rockers are the first thing I toss in the trash.
 
There’s more going on than just a failed rocker arm, it looks like it was badly overheated…
 
jaw hitting floor.gif


Holy crap Alex. You certainly have a helluva mess on yer hands!
 
Amazing how the trash found its way into 4 cylinders on either side of the engine. Through the intake?
Yes, Eddy dual plane intake and one plane telegraphed all the shrapnel into 4 cylinders. Quite effectively I might add.
 
There’s more going on than just a failed rocker arm, it looks like it was badly overheated…
I agree. The rocker is the first thing I saw with the valve stem gone and spring sitting loose. Looking at other rockers they are hitting the edges of the retainer. After I pulled the head off the intake seat was gone. Well, not gone completely. Just got spread throughout the engine.
 
What kind of a warranty are you putting on this engine???
I have not considered a warranty but will back up my work somehow and anything I offer will be conditional. Not offering a 5/50 but should do something. Most shops do nothing that I'm aware of. Time to get advice from some machine shops. I'll be installing it so will verify the cooling system is up to par. A rev limiter will be added too. A complete build sheet documenting clearances and so on.
 
Seems like an amateur build, it wouldn't be a bad idea to inform the engine builder of his mistakes so he can learn from it before he messes up another good 440.
I have no idea who built this. The car was purchased from a dealer in TX for a whole lotta cash.
 
Definitely an ugly mess......she must be a fun girl to be around if she drives hard like that. :thumbsup:
I only met her when the engine arrived. And she was wearing a skin tight mini dress and a white leather jacket with MoPar and Charger logos. Me thinks this is a tactic to get the price down.
 
Holy crap that looks bad.
Meeps knows Porsches too!
Her engine is in good hands. She doesn't know how lucky she is to have you as the mechanic doing this repair.
Now how did you forget to include a photo of the 1970 Charger?
HA! Thanks a bunch! Yep, I built my 72 911T and it managed to stay together. That was a fun build. I didn't pull the engine out of this car or ever saw it in person. Here is the car 1970 Dodge Charger
 
If she thinks a 440 is $$$ to rebuild wait until she blows up the 911S ,
I own one and it's 3 times the cost of my mopars :rofl:

View attachment 1628138
Sunroof coupe. Nice. Mine was a leaf green 72T sunroof coupe. 2.4 MFI. I'm also a member of the R Gruppe and was friends with Cris Huergas (RIP)
 
Overheated will drop a seat, but with that damage, who knows what happened first, the chicken or the egg. Rocker spacer on the outside seems to be turned 90°, so last 2 rockers were way off on space. The retainer striking the rocker was unacceptable. It all needs to be done correctly. Nothing wrong with 5 1/16" push rods, I haven't hurt mine yet, anything can get hurt. Ball is in your park, sounds like she can afford play, so do it right this time, so that hopefully it doesn't break next time.
Might not be a bad idea to put a rev limiter on her, who knows what rpm she hit.
Yep this will be built to withstand her lead foot. I use 3/8" push rods and iron adjustable rockers (or similar) on every performance build that requires more than stock valve spring pressures. Springs and weak parts do crazy things at high RPMs and I like all the rigidity I can get. Weak rockers and push rods act like secondary springs and it's important to make sure they never go into a resonance.
 
True, does seem very low miles to be getting on it, but there is a school of thought that says "for maximum horsepower after the initial break-in just drive it like you stole it".

Personally I aim for about 1,000 miles before redlining it, but possibly would be ok if the break-in oil has been ditched and fresh oil and filter were installed.
You definitely want to seat the rings and that can only be done with several repeated WOT blasts. But you don't hit redline that soon.
 
You may want to add a few of those tell tale overheating buttons the rebuilders use. If you use the Edelbrock heads, the RPM heads have better seats and valves than the E Street.
 
My theory would be that the valve bent from sideways loading.
Stuck open was hit by the piston and then the explosion erupted.
 
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