Hydro Clutch conversion

[mavwreck]

I recently aquired almost all the pieces to put a 4 speed in my 67 coronet (minus crossmember and a clutch, haven’t decided who I’m going with). I do have a torque tube but I’m almost 100% positive that this will not work with my headers and from what I’ve read on the internet I have 3 major options all being hydraulic:

A throw out bearing

A push type slave

Or a pull type slave

I am doing this on a working man’s budget and a TB is pretty steep at $700 for a bolt in kit. I could get away with a pull type as I do have the means of making a custom bracket for the slave to mount to. That also goes the same for a push type but I’d rather go where function can meet budget. Has anyone done the slave cylinder setups? I saw an old thread with these pictures on it but they don’t show the slave cylinder, only the master. Looking for some help here!

 

[radical rob]

I have a American power train hydraulic set up in my rr. It went in fairly easily except for one problem. The connecting rod from the clutch pedal to the torque tube has a bend in it. This means that the connection point on the pedal needs to come over to the brake pedal direction about an inch. This is if you use the existing hole in the firewall. Reason is you need a straight line on that connector or offset will increase pedal effort as well as premature wear on hydraulic cylinder. Also needs to be at almost same point where connection point is for proper length on throw for connector. Make sure get right size throw out bearing for input shaft as well.

 

[mavwreck]

I have an American power train hydraulic set up in my rr. It went in fairly easily except for one problem. The connecting rod from the clutch pedal to the torque tube has a bend in it. This means that the connection point on the pedal needs to come over to the brake pedal direction about an inch. This is if you use the existing hole in the firewall. Reason is you need a straight line on that connector or offset will increase pedal effort as well as premature wear on hydraulic cylinder. Also needs to be at almost same point where connection point is for proper length on throw for connector. Make sure get right size throw out bearing for input shaft as well.

I’m looking at getting the AMPT HMCH30001G and it says it fits “mopars” but in the pictures it only shows a threaded pushrod. Do I have to modify the clutch pedal with this kit? Or does it connect in the factory location?

 

[radical rob]

It’s close but either need to move the hole over which can cause the end of the hydraulic cylinder to hit the inner fender or move connection on pedal over to straighten out the connection. If you have enough room the first is the easiest. The second requires some fab and welding on the pedal

 

[mavwreck]

It’s close but either need to move the hole over which can cause the end of the hydraulic cylinder to hit the inner fender or move connection on pedal over to straighten out the connection. If you have enough room the first is the easiest. The second requires some fab and welding on the pedal

Well my car is no stranger to the cutting wheel so sounds like the first will be the best option. I guess another question was if the kit had the factory hole that looks similar to the pushrod below. Does it attach to the pedal with a hyme or the factory attachment style hole with the clips?

 

[Sam69sat]

Have you searched forabodiesonly.com for diy hydraulic clutch threads? I remember seeing some good threads over there on the subject.

Check out the early 2000's?? dakota master cylinders. They look like they might work since they mount to the firewall at an angle like some of the big name hydraulic setups. And here's a couple different slave cylinders pull/push that may possibly work. Of course there will be some fabrication to get it all working.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Push-Type-Clutch-Release-Slave-Cylinder,1944.html

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Speedway-Pull-Type-Clutch-Release-Slave-Cylinder,7169.html