70B
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Much easier solution, great! Sneaking up on the answer for sure!
I Finally Did It.....EFI
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69hemibeep
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I had to get an electric water temp gauge and use the little hole on the other side of the water pump to free up the big one at the heater hose nipples.
7t500
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Another option is getting the 440 Source water pump housing. Save yourself a bunch of weight and it has multiple threaded holes that work great for running dual temp sensors.
Mike67
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Can you post a pic of your base table?
Also what duration is your cam.
I installed my HP a couple of months ago and thought I had a fair understanding of what it needed, I got side tracked and worked on my interior and it seems I forgot everything I had read.
I had a major problem getting my IAC down to 2-3%,I think I have my secondaries and primary synced up and my ramp decay rate close as it does finally get there.
It starts easily hot or cold and now the throttle response in park is instantaneous! It wraps like a small block but its still pig rich.
70B
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Found a long thermostat housing with the 3/8" port. There are a lot more options out there than I thought. Thanks for the help all.
70chall440
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I've got one of these that I was putting on the 69 Ply wagon I am building for a guy and to be honest, I am not happy with it. I do not at all like the O ring on the one side. I ended up just drilling a new hole for a water temp probe and reinstalled the thermostat housing.
70B
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My biggest worry about doing that was finding a thick enough spot to drill into to get enough threads on it. Was it leaking at the o-ring? I also raised the housing nipple up , used the old housing as a base by cutting the neck off. So it's pump, thermostat, o-ringed old housing (minus neck), gasket and sealant, new housing. That was my fear that it would leak, I'll see I guess! Thanks for the heads up.
70chall440
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To be honest I never pressurized the system with it, I didn't (don't) trust it. I drilled the hole to the right of the Tstat housing after watching an episode of junkerup on YouTube where Chris did it. We have a 440 Source WP housing and its definitely thick enough.
70chall440
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There's always more than one way to do anything, I am sure your system will work.
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70chall440
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That is correct, that O ring is pretty thin.
1 Wild R/T
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And it is fitted to a machined groove, captured on three sides.. The flange of the water pump creates the fourth side.... A 70 durometer O ring in a proper groove is capable of approximately 1500 PSI...
70chall440
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That all might be, but any imperfection in the surface typically results in a leak. I am not bad mouthing O rings in general, I am just saying in the application I am dealing with I don't trust it and won't be using it. Now, maybe down the line on something else I might.
451Mopar
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If you have a PCV valve it might be creating too much of a vacuum leak at idle. try adjusting the IAC with the PCV plugged and make the basic adjustments starting from there to get a decent baseline, Then reconnect the PCV and tune from there. The IAC might be responding too slow or too fast? Usually want IAC to increase IAC quickly, but decrease slowely if you have a good sized cam. Really if that seems to be the problem, might be easier to start with a larger cam baseline if it is an option (not already on the largest cam baseline?)
My FiTech needed some cold start and idle adjustments, but engine has a huge cam and about 5" vacuum at idle.
Been awhile since I messed with it, but I think I added some timing at idle, and changed the IAC loop rates, along with the cold fuel enrichment (after start and warm up settings)
The decel settings needed work also so the engine would not die when returning to idle.
Mike67
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Thanks I'll try that. My cam isnt "huge" but is healthy, 246°/252°@.050 110lsa. I tried the biggest base tune and it ran like crap, had a friend who had a similar set up except his is a stroked small block and with the adjustments is better. It's so rich it will burn your eyes after 5-10 minutes of idling. O did upgrade to the HP and am running the V4 edition.
Again I'm a newbie at this...
My laptop is at the shop and I dont have my settings committed to memory, I will bring it home this weekend and post. I think I have my AFR set to 13.5 @idle but will jump to 14.3-14.6.
I lowered my IAC hold position down to 25, ramp decay lowered to 1.5 sec RPM above idle to start ramp is 1000, Re-enable is set I think at 400rpm. I dont remember but I think timing is set @20°.
I'm still trying to figure out the fueling tables
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I sure can when I get a chance. Is that the table with AFR's from idle to wot?
Mike67
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That's the one!
Thank you much!!!
andyf
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I can't really tell from the picture but it looks like the port is in the water neck? If so that won't work. The port needs to be below the thermostat or else it won't work.
70B
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I drilled a pee hole in the thermostat .
andyf
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I think that approach will cause you problems. The EFI system uses the temp sensor to control the choke so if it doesn't see hot water right away you'll have a "stuck choke". You can try it if you want but I think you'll be changing it once you see what happens.
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