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I'd like to hear from those with lifts that they can't fully extend up, please?

How deep is your garage? Any chance you can shift the lift deeper into the stall so Fred's roof winds up past the roof truss?
Funny you'd mention...
I was just out there this evening again with the tape and I think I can pull up within 2 feet of the workbench
and get the roof of Fred to clear that garage door opener.
Would make for a bit of a cramped working environment, but hey - if it buys height (and doesn't cost me the
opener), what the heck. :thumbsup:
 
Put in a side entry and come in between the rafters! :)
Hell, in a perfect world, I'd have the time left (and the $$$ resources) just to build another garage real quick. :lol:
 
Funny you'd mention...
I was just out there this evening again with the tape and I think I can pull up within 2 feet of the workbench
and get the roof of Fred to clear that garage door opener.
Would make for a bit of a cramped working environment, but hey - if it buys height (and doesn't cost me the
opener), what the heck. :thumbsup:
Once it's in the air you'll have more room around the bench.... I was even going to suggest moving the bench to a side wall if needed for room to nose Fred in a little deeper...
 
Actually, get a four post with casters. Lift it and turn it sideways between the rafters. I rolled mine up where it is sitting for storage.
wile e coyote genius.jpg
 
Yeah, there's tons of contraptions like that out there. Are you recommending this one from experience?
I would get one in that style. We have them at work and I have one at home.
The low back stays out of the way, but a small ridge like that serves as a way for you to know you are fully located on the seat, and something to push on when you want to move around. Higher backs get in the way. Typical round seat stools will let you slide off.
The bottom tray is nice to have, and allows for some weight to be added to keep center of gravity low if you feel it is unstable.
I would go "full options". We have one at work where there is no height adjustment and no one wants to use it. Quality of wheels comes with price point also. Plus, really, the nicer it is the more you will like to use it. Otherwise it turns into more garage deco.

Edit: The ones from work were picked up from either Grainger or McMaster-Carr, I would have to ask which. I had them order me one when they got the last couple in because I like them. The picture was just the first one I saw in a google search that looked like the right type.
 
FWIW a few years ago lifts were all over in the 2-2.5K range... Now it seems 3.5-4K is the norm... Plus typically $6-750 to install it..

Or do what a friend did & score a used one for $500..
 

I found my lift used for $1500CAD. So about $273USD! It came with the castors. It moves around quite easily. You look like you have a wide open shop with a smooth floor. It looks like you would have the necessary height sideways. You can shove it to one side when not needed and still park something on it if required.
 
FWIW a few years ago lifts were all over in the 2-2.5K range... Now it seems 3.5-4K is the norm... Plus typically $6-750 to install it..

Or do what a friend did & score a used one for $500..
Agree on that! Those MaxJacks sure look nice, but they're sure proud of them...
I do like the part about getting them out of the way when not in use, though.
 
Another nice thing about the units on casters, you can roll it outside & work on stuff you wouldn't want the mess from inside you garage... A buddy uses his to pressure wash the bottom of his cars...
Well...I DO live on the side of a ridge, you know:
100_0951.JPG
Suffice to say, you get anything on wheels on that driveway, it best have some good brakes and a means of
steering it - or wind up a quarter mile down the hill in the creek (about a 300 ft elevation drop). :)

Test driving partially-completed (read: no brakes) cars up here takes nerves of steel (and some level of
stupidity).
 
I found my lift used for $1500CAD. So about $273USD! It came with the castors. It moves around quite easily. You look like you have a wide open shop with a smooth floor. It looks like you would have the necessary height sideways. You can shove it to one side when not needed and still park something on it if required.
I Agree with most of what you posted.. But $1500CAD? Isn't that like$4???? :poke::poke::lol:
 
I found my lift used for $1500CAD. So about $273USD! It came with the castors. It moves around quite easily. You look like you have a wide open shop with a smooth floor. It looks like you would have the necessary height sideways. You can shove it to one side when not needed and still park something on it if required.
Guess I best get lucky on the ol' FB Marketplace, eh?
 
Well...I DO live on the side of a ridge, you know:
View attachment 1445192
Suffice to say, you get anything on wheels on that driveway, it best have some good brakes and a means of
steering it - or wind up a quarter mile down the hill in the creek (about a 300 ft elevation drop). :)

Test driving partially-completed (read: no brakes) cars up here takes nerves of steel (and some level of
stupidity).
Yeah, that changes things... No outside work for you...
 
Ok I’m giving away trade secrets here. ;)

I actually post a wanted ad. That way I’m not targeting those trying to sell specifically. I’m aiming at those who have something they don’t necessarily need and would part with.

Happy hunting.

:thumbsup:
 
Probably not ideal but I’ve seen folks just lay a concrete slab somewhere convenient and then just mount a 2-post full size car lift on it. Just use it in the open or build a carport over the slab. Add lights for night time work.

Another option are those portable buildings/tents. I’ve had the “Clearspan” tent for many years and it holds up really well even in bad storms. I fill it with over flow parts/car or whatever I need. It just needs to be SUPER secured to the ground. I recently reinstalled mine from Illinois to now on a hill in Arkansas and believe it or not it has survived spectacularly over the last few huge storms here in tornado alley. I didn’t just use only the long earth screws (8) but use larger concrete bolts and strapped the bottom side and back conduits to big concrete blocks sunk partially in the ground. Also added extra conduit framing on the back and front panels.

Clearspan tents are not cheap but do last. Their weak point is the front roll up door. The fabric is very good and tough but the thread used to secure the zippers are not outdoor/weather resistant. Most of the problems stem from freezing weather, contraction and opening the door during that timeframe. The thread rips out of the zippers.

I found an automotive upholstery guy here to double up the thread and use marine thread. I was happy and so far so good.

I got blisters on my fingers……..
 
Ok I’m giving away trade secrets here. ;)

I actually post a wanted ad. That way I’m not targeting those trying to sell specifically. I’m aiming at those who have something they don’t necessarily need and would part with.

Happy hunting.

:thumbsup:
Color me confused....?
 
Everybody selling is after top dollar. Those who see an ad looking for something they have and aren’t using aren’t necessarily going to want top value. My hoist was $1500. Similar sell for 3 plus. I found a guy with something he wasnt using and he saw some cash instead.

This has been my experience many times with many people.
 
I have a nice 40x40 space...with a single garage door and a 9' ceiling :BangHead: I pull my wagon in the single door, put it on wheel dollies, and slide it sideways out of the way, then pull my Ram in next to it.

What I want to do, is widen the door from the 7x9 it is now, to a double-bay 18x7 (to eliminate the need for the dollies), then open up the roof trusses to make room for a lift. I'd do a 2 post but I haven't confirmed slab thickness or composition...the guy overbuilt everything, but I'd hate to find out the hard way...

I just need to figure out the design to open the trusses up....this is an approximation of how they are now:

?u=https%3A%2F%2Ftse1.mm.bing.net%2Fth%3Fid%3DOIP.jpg


I guess I could open them to this:

ent%2Fuploads%2F2020%2F03%2F20180522_162816-scaled.jpg


And that should net me the headroom I need to make a "pocket" above the lift...any engineers here who can confirm or refute that idea?

Maybe combine it with something like this, to net some more strength at the ends/eaves (since I notice the one above does not have a bottom plate, but the one below does):

iu
 
I have a nice 40x40 space...with a single garage door and a 9' ceiling :BangHead: I pull my wagon in the single door, put it on wheel dollies, and slide it sideways out of the way, then pull my Ram in next to it.

What I want to do, is widen the door from the 7x9 it is now, to a double-bay 18x7 (to eliminate the need for the dollies), then open up the roof trusses to make room for a lift. I'd do a 2 post but I haven't confirmed slab thickness or composition...the guy overbuilt everything, but I'd hate to find out the hard way...

I just need to figure out the design to open the trusses up....this is an approximation of how they are now:

View attachment 1446181

I guess I could open them to this:

View attachment 1446182

And that should net me the headroom I need to make a "pocket" above the lift...any engineers here who can confirm or refute that idea?

Maybe combine it with something like this, to net some more strength at the ends/eaves (since I notice the one above does not have a bottom plate, but the one below does):

iu
The best way would be to build in between the rafters,like putting in a skylite.You will have to build an extension on you existing roof line to aquire your height of lift at the lowest point of existing ceiling.If you put in the bigger garage door you will lose a lot of storage space at front of shop,as 9 ft or 4.5 ft on each side is a lot of space.My shop is 35 ft n i put a 18 ft door in n now wishing i had just put a 10 x 9 in.
 
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