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Ignition Module Comparisions

mopar73dge

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To start, I have used a factory ECU on my 73 Charger with out any problems, about 140000 miles on the original unit I changed to an Orange box in 2002 and used that until recent, June 2018, I decided to try the Revenator, after 2months of driving and on one particular trip, it did give me about 2mpg more after a 140 mile mostly highway trip. I did however notice it did not have the snappy feel that I had before, from a standing start, I also lost my low end torque and power through the rpm to 3000, a significant difference that I do not like. I am not happy with the performance over all and with the cost it is not worth it to me. if it was free I still would not use it. They have a 90 day return full refund warrantee. I return the unit. I have had reliability with the orange box. I did change to a (Jegs High Rev 7500), the power, low end torque and mid range power is so much better it has a off the line power much greater than the Revenator box. It is even better than my orange box. Also when I set the timing, it did not need the VA connected, full advance to 35 degrees already at 2800 rpms, very quickly too as I watched the rpms and it advance using my digital time light. After driving the car last night it was like night and day , back to my original performing car I had always had. I will carry a spare ecu of course, but for 35.00 its worth the try and I am very happy with the cars performance. My results working on my 73 318, 430 inch mopar cam, duel exhaust 3:21 rear end stock Mopar NOS champion plugs and Mopar NOS wires, Mopar coil, store bought new distributor, 2b carb stock air cleaner and filter. I need to get a Mopar Chrome box and use the Jegs for the spare. Timing set at 19 deg idle 36 deg reached at only at 2800 rpm and fast too. The Revenator came up much slower, hence the low power, maybe its defective, either way its not what I expected.
 
I switched from orange to chrome and the difference to me was, it fires up a little stronger when cold. My carb has no choke and I don't have to feather the throttle as long to get ot to idle on it's own. Performance-wise, there may be a small difference in upper-rpm firing but not enough that the butt-dyno noticed...I was fortunate to get USA-made units, and it seems like they have all been discontinued as of late so good luck.
 
To start, I have used a factory ECU on my 73 Charger with out any problems, about 140000 miles on the original unit I changed to an Orange box in 2002 and used that until recent, June 2018, I decided to try the Revenator, after 2months of driving and on one particular trip, it did give me about 2mpg more after a 140 mile mostly highway trip. I did however notice it did not have the snappy feel that I had before, from a standing start, I also lost my low end torque and power through the rpm to 3000, a significant difference that I do not like. I am not happy with the performance over all and with the cost it is not worth it to me. if it was free I still would not use it. They have a 90 day return full refund warrantee. I return the unit. I have had reliability with the orange box. I did change to a (Jegs High Rev 7500), the power, low end torque and mid range power is so much better it has a off the line power much greater than the Revenator box. It is even better than my orange box. Also when I set the timing, it did not need the VA connected, full advance to 35 degrees already at 2800 rpms, very quickly too as I watched the rpms and it advance using my digital time light. After driving the car last night it was like night and day , back to my original performing car I had always had. I will carry a spare ecu of course, but for 35.00 its worth the try and I am very happy with the cars performance. My results working on my 73 318, 430 inch mopar cam, duel exhaust 3:21 rear end stock Mopar NOS champion plugs and Mopar NOS wires, Mopar coil, store bought new distributor, 2b carb stock air cleaner and filter. I need to get a Mopar Chrome box and use the Jegs for the spare. Timing set at 19 deg idle 36 deg reached at only at 2800 rpm and fast too. The Revenator came up much slower, hence the low power, maybe its defective, either way its not what I expected.
Just an fyi..in regards to your comments about timing, the ecu does not control how much advance or what RPM it comes 'all in' at...that is a function of your distributor
 
You really want to step it up a notch? HEI. Inexpensive too.

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I also was disappointed in the Revonator and sent it back. I now run the chrome box and I am very happy with it.
 
well with out the advance connected it still advances fine with the advance connected it advances too far over 40deg.same idle setting, maybe my distributer is working fine with out it but with a stock factory box I need the VA connected it tells me the new high rev chrome orange and others may have a built in digital fly wheel claimed by the R/T.( Why did you send yours back?), mine was flashing all led,s when at idle every 30 seconds, making the engine skip, like it was turning itself off for a second, started after two months, that is the reason I sent it back, now I wont go to anything else but chrome or equal. and for a lot less money! Changing to the high rev made a difference like a chrome box, much better, it is made for the engine, designed by Chrysler Performance Engineering they built a fine product it does what it said it will do.
 
well with out the advance connected it still advances fine with the advance connected it advances too far over 40deg.same idle setting, maybe my distributer is working fine with out it but with a stock factory box I need the VA connected it tells me the new high rev chrome orange and others may have a built in digital fly wheel claimed by the R/T.( Why did you send yours back?), mine was flashing all led,s when at idle every 30 seconds, making the engine skip, like it was turning itself off for a second, started after two months, that is the reason I sent it back, now I wont go to anything else but chrome or equal. and for a lot less money! Changing to the high rev made a difference like a chrome box, much better, it is made for the engine, designed by Chrysler Performance Engineering they built a fine product it does what it said it will do.
If vacuum advance is connected to manifold vacuum, it will fall off as rpms increase, if it is connected to the ported advance, it will increase with throttle to a point. An engine needs more advance at cruise, but at WOT, neither port should provide vacuum to the distributor. Only the mechanical advance is in operation at WOT
 
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Than if my total time is at 36 deg. at 2800 rpm, than I don't need the VA connected?
 
Than if my total time is at 36 deg. at 2800 rpm, than I don't need the VA connected?
Any street engine will benefit from vacuum advance. In my opinion, ONLY a race only engine doesn't need vacuum advance. My personal recommendation is use manifold vacuum, the car will start well where you have it then immediately advance at idle and cruise when the engine needs it. As the peddle goes to the metal, the vacuum decreases and the mechanical comes in. This is sure to cause controversy because a lot of people swear by ported advance but the truth is that before the emissions junk kicked in, all advance was connected to manifold vacuum. I stand by my opinion
 
Thanks bill I can try it and see what happens. West VA is beautiful, we travel on I 64 to Richmond coming down from MA
 
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