What coil and wires please

[Shut]

Hello

I have a 383 rebuild to 500hp (but I dont know the mods). Comes with the “Orange box”, can I use the MSD blaster 2 or I need to change the ignition controller too??

What is the best configuration with the “Orange box”?? Coil, wires and sparks please

Thanks in advance

Best regards

 

[RJRENTON]

Hello

I have a 383 rebuild to 500hp (but I dont know the mods). Comes with the “Orange box”, can I use the MSD blaster 2 or I need to change the ignition controller too??

What is the best configuration with the “Orange box”?? Coil, wires and sparks please

Thanks in advance

Best regards

Why would you not use the standard Mopar coil with the Mopar ECU...aka "Orange" box? and ballast resistor?....especially with an engine with "unknown mods"? I do not believe the MSD blaster coil is compatible for long term operation. @Hallifaxhops will be more specific as to compatability. Just my opinion.....
BOB RENTON

 

[Sinitro]

Hello

I have a 383 rebuild to 500hp (but I dont know the mods). Comes with the “Orange box”, can I use the MSD blaster 2 or I need to change the ignition controller too??

What is the best configuration with the “Orange box”?? Coil, wires and sparks please

Thanks in advance

Best regards

Some guys will likely jump in but...
For a built wedge motor for street running and occasional run down the drag strip, Mopar recommended for many years the following:
1. Mopar Electronic distributor
2. Chrome box (Mopar #P4120534)
3. Blaster II Coil (Mopar #P4876732)
4. 0.25 Ohm ballast resistor (Mopar #P2444641)

Just my $0.02...

 

[RemCharger]

Some guys will likely jump in but...
For a built wedge motor for street running and occasional run down the drag strip, Mopar recommended for many years the following:
1. Mopar Electronic distributor
2. Chrome box (Mopar #P4120534)
3. Blaster II Coil (Mopar #P4876732)
4. 0.25 Ohm ballast resistor (Mopar #P2444641)

Just my $0.02...

^^^^this, and either chrome or orange will work. I can't speak for the newer boxes, as the older originals never failed for me.

 

[Some Car Guy]

I used a Blaster 2 for years on the street. Drove and drove and drove since it was a bondo buggy and chips and bumps and rain didn’t matter to me. I run a Petronix now, both coil and ignition. Flawless.

 

[kiwigtx]

If you're not going OE on the car - I would recommend Firecore plug wires.

I just received a new set from the Australian agent last week. Even after being up against headers for long periods there is no burning damage to the boots - they are that good.
I had OE wires that cost me a small fortune, and they didn't have the same protection against the heat....burned up like cookies in the oven.

 

[Shut]

thanks to all!!

Well I keep my coil (its gold and brown head, I dont know the brand)

I will replace the sparks NGK XR5 and wires. This Firecore looks good, but I cannt find in summit or jegs

 

[kiwigtx]

thanks to all!!

Well I keep my coil (its gold and brown head, I dont know the brand)

I will replace the sparks NGK XR5 and wires. This Firecore looks good, but I cannt find in summit or jegs

Call or email them direct. They do custom sets just like the ones I have pictured.

FireCore50 Spark Plug Wire Sets - FireCore Performance

How to Measure Your Wires - FireCore Performance

 

[moparedtn]

^^^^this, and either chrome or orange will work. I can't speak for the newer boxes, as the older originals never failed for me.

I'm a hoarder of old (but unused/new) control boxes for my Mopar electronic ignition kit setup (getting
harder to do these days as supplies have been gobbled up) - I've converted every big block I've owned
since the 80's using a Mopar electronic ignition conversion kit (again, an old but new kit).

Those came with 0.8ohm ballasts according to the literature in the instructions and typically a stock coil,
although I've tossed a big ol' fat Accel yellow Super Coil on from time to time.
I guess that's what Ma wanted for the ECU?

This time around, I bought a MSD Blaster II from a local parts store and put it on there and I'll tell you I'm
still sort of confused on what ballast to use with it. The instructions on the coil are a bit confusing to me and
when you toss in what Ma said in the conversion kit, I have no idea if I'm protecting the coil or the ECU more?
Anways, there's a 0.4ohm on there now for the last few years (Fred is street use only) and knock wood, it
seems to work - but I do think I'm starting to see some oil weeping out of the top of the coil?

 

[RJRENTON]

I'm a hoarder of old (but unused/new) control boxes for my Mopar electronic ignition kit setup (getting
harder to do these days as supplies have been gobbled up) - I've converted every big block I've owned
since the 80's using a Mopar electronic ignition conversion kit (again, an old but new kit).

Those came with 0.8ohm ballasts according to the literature in the instructions and typically a stock coil,
although I've tossed a big ol' fat Accel yellow Super Coil on from time to time.
I guess that's what Ma wanted for the ECU?

This time around, I bought a MSD Blaster II from a local parts store and put it on there and I'll tell you I'm
still sort of confused on what ballast to use with it. The instructions on the coil are a bit confusing to me and
when you toss in what Ma said in the conversion kit, I have no idea if I'm protecting the coil or the ECU more?
Anways, there's a 0.4ohm on there now for the last few years (Fred is street use only) and knock wood, it
seems to work - but I do think I'm starting to see some oil weeping out of the top of the coil?

Oil leaking from the coil's top is likely due to overheating due to too much primary current. Probably due to the 0.4 ohm ballast resistor allowing high current.....OR....the wrong coil in the first place, having a lower resistance, drawing excessive current. Why not use the Mopar coil? Why the MSD Blaster II coil, does it possess some magic?? Or this is what the parts store had in stock and it has a higher margin than the standard coil?? Just asking?......
BOB RENTON

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Some guys will likely jump in but...
For a built wedge motor for street running and occasional run down the drag strip, Mopar recommended for many years the following:
1. Mopar Electronic distributor
2. Chrome box (Mopar #P4120534)
3. Blaster II Coil (Mopar #P4876732)
4. 0.25 Ohm ballast resistor (Mopar #P2444641)

oK for the strip not the street. The .25 resistor is for the chrome and gold boxes only for the strip since they have cool down between runs Will over heat any box if used for a cruiser Question is how you going to drive it? Also why not points? The new orange boxes suck and either Authorized Mopar or Mopar approved. Still made cheaply. There is a whole thread on these on fabo. n which are real and not. Whatever box you get make sure it is from 2000 and back.

OK now dist. talk. You have to know what parts are in your engine then adjust a distributors curve to get it close. Yes any will make it run but run for your engine is a different thing. Most aftermarket ones have a really fast cure more set uo for the strip, Hope this helps you out.

 

[Sinitro]

Some guys will likely jump in but...
For a built wedge motor for street running and occasional run down the drag strip, Mopar recommended for many years the following:
1. Mopar Electronic distributor
2. Chrome box (Mopar #P4120534)
3. Blaster II Coil (Mopar #P4876732)
4. 0.25 Ohm ballast resistor (Mopar #P2444641)

oK for the strip not the street. The .25 resistor is for the chrome and gold boxes only for the strip since they have cool down between runs Will over heat any box if used for a cruiser Question is how you going to drive it? Also why not points? The new orange boxes suck and either Authorized Mopar or Mopar approved. Still made cheaply. There is a whole thread on these on fabo. n which are real and not. Whatever box you get make sure it is from 2000 and back.
View attachment 1770886View attachment 1770885

OK now dist. talk. You have to know what parts are in your engine then adjust a distributors curve to get it close. Yes any will make it run but run for your engine is a different thing. Most aftermarket ones have a really fast cure more set uo for the strip, Hope this helps you out.

View attachment 1770925

Thanks for ur comments...
But this needs some clarifications.
Since originally we raced for Chrysler and had sponsorship we had direct communications with their tech staff.
The best info for their OE high performance ignition systems is archived in their Tech Bulletins.
Also note that in later years, Mopar went outside(mainly off-shore) for certain ignition components and their quality, reliability and
specs can/will vary from their original performance parameters. The other primary electrical point strongly emphasized by Mopar is to upgrade
the electrical system(alternator & regulator) to have at least 75 amp capability.
In my case, I still have a stash of original OE ignition components, and have been running the posted system for many years without any issues.
But I do carry some spares if they are needed.
Attached are a couple of page copies from the Tech Bulletins for ignition systems.

Just my $0.02...

 

[Shut]

Thanks to all!!

 

[tommytunes]

Chrome box. Have a similar motor. Running for years. No muss no fuss. Easy fix and install.