Msd blaster coil hot to the touch. No Sparks

[RJRENTON]

The very reason I asked for volt meter readings and testing

I wanted to eliminate the easy stuff first

Hence the O P only owns a test light

Start with Volt Readings and ground
Remember it’s a RTR MSD

Then we can move to coils if that all pans out

Then the RTR Distributor itself
Cap Rotor Module

It did start so something overheated or lost full power and failed

Hopefully it wasn’t the RTR

What does "RTR" mean? This is America and we speak American....not in initials......Say what you mean in words......
BOB RENTON

 

[RJRENTON]

With your “fussing” comment, you don’t want me to say what I mean in words honestly

And Yes , last time I looked at my Adoption Records - I was born in the good ole USA

But in regards , we are as actually talking about Chinese Ignition Coils and Chinese Distributors

Maybe we should talk in Chinese

How do you pronounce * * In Chinese

Never mind , Carry on

Perhaps we should not use Chinese stuff and stick to what Mopar furnished as original equipment rather than spending $$ on equipment of questionable origin then complaining that it doesn't work as "promised".....???? Just a thought...
BOB RENTON

 

[velocityss1985]

RTR stands for ready to run. How is the block grounded to the chassis? You mentioned the distributor grounded to the block. Also, Ohm out the coil as suggested before.

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

Perhaps we should not use Chinese stuff and stick to what Mopar furnished as original equipment rather than spending $$ on equipment of questionable origin then complaining that it doesn't work as "promised".....???? Just a thought...
BOB RENTON

the problem with that is - it's not the 1960's or 1970's any more and many of the now new original equipment parts are outsourced outside of the USA, so quality is questionable all around.
RTR is ready to run - an all in one distributor with built-in ECU and Voltage Regulator I believe. These have been around for decades. Some work and some don't. The OP mentions the Ready To Run as part of his setup in post #1. Some people make comments without reading the very first post and those that follow because it makes them tired. I get it. These long threads aren't for the faint of heart.

 

[RJRENTON]

the problem with that is - it's not the 1960's or 1970's any more and many of the now new original equipment parts are outsourced outside of the USA, so quality is questionable all around.
RTR is ready to run - an all in one distributor with built-in ECU and Voltage Regulator I believe. These have been around for decades. Some work and some don't. The OP mentions the Ready To Run as part of his setup in post #1. Some people make comments without reading the very first post and those that follow because it makes them tired. I get it. These long threads aren't for the faint of heart.

I guess this proves the point: "let the buyer beware". Or the search for cheap HP increase. I'll stick with the old time proven equipment, in this instance, a Prestolite dual point distributor, Mopar coil and ballast resistor in my RS23V0A****** GTX.
BOB RENTON

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I guess this proves the point: "let the buyer beware". Or the search for cheap HP increase. I'll stick with the old time proven equipment, in this instance, a Prestolite dual point distributor, Mopar coil and ballast resistor in my RS23V0A****** GTX.
BOB RENTON

If any of your current parts takes a dump and you need to order those 3 parts or parts that work with them, are all of them currently made in the USA?? I'm genuinely curious. I doubt it. When I had points before (which I loved), annual replacement points and condenser from the corner auto parts store could originate from several "made-in" countries, some better than others...

 

[RJRENTON]

If any of your current parts takes a dump and you need to order those 3 parts or parts that work with them, are all of them currently made in the USA?? I'm genuinely curious. I doubt it. When I had points before (which I loved), annual replacement points and condenser from the corner auto parts store could originate from several "made-in" countries, some better than others...

I carry spare parts (points, condenders, cap, rotor, ballast resistor; coil) in the car and purchase NOS MOPAR stuff at Chryslers at Carlisle and large MOPAR swap meets or NOS Standard BLUE STREAK parts on line...PLUS I have 3 NOS Prestolite dual point distributor In the parts stash. Each distributor is curved to my specs with new points/condenser ready to "plug and play" . I have less $$ expended in parts than one MSD RTR setup. PS....I go several years on a set of points....and for an occasional use car, that's just fine......
That way I'm assured in getting made In the USA
BOB RENTON

 

[Moparfever65]

Sounds to me like it's not triggering leaving the coil at full voltage constantly. My guess is that either the ignition module crapped out or the reluctor gap is wrong. There are a lot of Chinese copies of MSD stuff out there. If you got a really good price that's a possibility. If the reluctor gap is okay I'd look for a replacement module.

 

[Krooser]

I have read that those MSD coils overheat and fail unless they are mounted upright not laying down.

I don't have any first hand knowledge ...

 

[hunt2elk]

I have read that those MSD coils overheat and fail unless they are mounted upright not laying down.

I don't have any first hand knowledge ...

I called MSD about that a couple years ago, and you are correct. They do make a model that is made to mount horizontal. It's filled with epoxy instead of oil.

 

[kiwigtx]

If it is fried no ohms will show.

If it is fried it could show extremely high resistance (OL on some meters) - or a dead short....0.01 ohms or less

 

[kiwigtx]

Shows .8 ohms across the posts, and 11.23k ohms from each post to the tower. The latter doesn't really tell you much.

It does actually - tells you the ratio of the windings from Primary to Secondary - and with the appropriate calculations you could check if it is within the factory parameters.

Wow...starting to sound like Bob now....lol

 

[kiwigtx]

1. Mine was brand new right out of the box!

We have heard that so often here.

Brand new out of the box means nothing. Think of how many returns a Supplier gets.....sometimes those parts make it straight back onto the sales shelf ready for the next guy to buy - without being tested properly.

Further to that - these parts are bulk manufactured - meaning not every unit is tested for quality at the factory. It doesn't take much of a deviation in the build process for a small error to be introduced to many items before being detected. The consumer then becomes the Guineapig by proxy and has to find the damaged goods for the factory.

 

[kiwigtx]

The very reason I asked for volt meter readings and testing

I wanted to eliminate the easy stuff first

Hence the O P only owns a test light

A test light for this sort of diagnosis is about the same as a Chef using his tongue to check if a frying pan is hot enough to cook a steak.

 

[Bee1971]

Thanx for the reminder - Seasoning the Rib Eyes for later today
Beautiful day in WI

There is another thread that just got updated with new ignition coils that failed out of the box

90% of these threads always come back to bulkhead connections , proper volt readings at the coil , proper volt readings with these MSD Distributors

Using the WRONG ohm coil for your application

And I have said it a million times , more failed Chinese coils then anything else within the ignition system

 

[RJRENTON]

It does actually - tells you the ratio of the windings from Primary to Secondary - and with the appropriate calculations you could check if it is within the factory parameters.

Wow...starting to sound like Bob now....lol

THANK YOU FOR YOUR VOTE OF CONFIDENCE.....I do know what I speak of.....
BOB RENTON

 

[Krooser]

Thanx for the reminder - Seasoning the Rib Eyes for later today
Beautiful day in WI

There is another thread that just got updated with new ignition coils that failed out of the box

90% of these threads always come back to bulkhead connections , proper volt readings at the coil , proper volt readings with these MSD Distributors

Using the WRONG ohm coil for your application

And I have said it a million times , more failed Chinese coils then anything else within the ignition system

Save a steak for me...I can be there by 3...

 

[RemCharger]

It does actually - tells you the ratio of the windings from Primary to Secondary - and with the appropriate calculations you could check if it is within the factory parameters.

Wow...starting to sound like Bob now....lol

Consider it a fishing expedition.

 

[hunt2elk]

It does actually - tells you the ratio of the windings from Primary to Secondary - and with the appropriate calculations you could check if it is within the factory parameters.

Wow...starting to sound like Bob now....lol

But you forgot to mention how much money you have in your checking account....

 

[RJRENTON]

It does actually - tells you the ratio of the windings from Primary to Secondary - and with the appropriate calculations you could check if it is within the factory parameters.

Wow...starting to sound like Bob now....lol

The ignition coil is a simple AUTO-TRANSFORMER. The low voltage primary windings are not magnetically isolated from the high voltage secondary windings , but connected together thru a common connection. The plus (+) to negative (-) connection checks the primary RESISTANCE, expressed as ohms. The secondary resistance checks the high voltage secondary windings (tower to negative terminal). Depending on the original design of the coil, the primary RESISTANCE could be 1 - 2 ohms; the secondary RESISTANCE could be as high as 10,000 to 15,000 ohms. And the resistance from any connection to the coil's case shoild be infinity ohms (no grounds).......FYI.....
BOB RENTON