bigmanjbmopar
Newb with a view
Almost every day I hear or see the term all in when discussing ignition timing, How many of you would gasp if I said 50-56° of total timing on a vac distributor is considered all in? We typically hear 36 or 38° all in but what if that's only half the story?
I have been struggling with wanting to dial in my best timing scenario for my engine along with the best idle quality and drivability without sacrificing low end power or passing gear power.
My quest for the best I could get out of my motor, or as you may call it dialed in started with the dyno run and base line results, this told me I was a small bit lean on my fuel / air burn, which led to the installation of an air fuel ratio gauge. This led to figuring out the best combination of timing and a/f ratio for the best idle, part throttle and wide open throttle results.
I have found a guide to help me, hopefully it will help others who want to know just how to do this themselves. I read carefully and finally was able to understand it all and apply this technique to my motor and low and behold I have the best I going to get. I say that because if you give yourself false hope or let someone else tell you what they think your motor should be able to give you, you will be on the wrong track.
Funny part is after following this guide and getting things pretty good, I explained to my neighbor who is a long time mechanic with his own business, that I was at 51° all in he looked at me with surprise and and immediately said no way that's too much did it detonate? why? so I explained this article and showed him and he said in 32 years he has never heard that! lol no worries I said it works and would explain why I was not getting the best out of my motor.
That said, even us noobs can properly tune our mopars with this guide, I will say trial and error are the best way to get'er done, but having the right tools is more important, like a vacuum pump handheld to get the vacuum canister on the distributor tested for its amount of timing and adjusting to that, a old school timing light, newer ones have issues with msd boxes, a good quality carb one that has good adjustability. a vacuum gauge to see just how much vac you motor has at idle and how much it will produce from the timed port on the carb mines has 25" at 2500 rpm woot
more than enough to pull in a properly adjusted vac canister on the distributor. which should pull all in at 15".
I wont get into all the other tools you could use, compression tester, leak down tester, anyway here is the guide that has helped me get my motor suited for a great driver now ready for some long trips.
Good luck noobs!
http://www.mopar1.us/engine2.html
:headbang:
I have been struggling with wanting to dial in my best timing scenario for my engine along with the best idle quality and drivability without sacrificing low end power or passing gear power.
My quest for the best I could get out of my motor, or as you may call it dialed in started with the dyno run and base line results, this told me I was a small bit lean on my fuel / air burn, which led to the installation of an air fuel ratio gauge. This led to figuring out the best combination of timing and a/f ratio for the best idle, part throttle and wide open throttle results.
I have found a guide to help me, hopefully it will help others who want to know just how to do this themselves. I read carefully and finally was able to understand it all and apply this technique to my motor and low and behold I have the best I going to get. I say that because if you give yourself false hope or let someone else tell you what they think your motor should be able to give you, you will be on the wrong track.
Funny part is after following this guide and getting things pretty good, I explained to my neighbor who is a long time mechanic with his own business, that I was at 51° all in he looked at me with surprise and and immediately said no way that's too much did it detonate? why? so I explained this article and showed him and he said in 32 years he has never heard that! lol no worries I said it works and would explain why I was not getting the best out of my motor.
That said, even us noobs can properly tune our mopars with this guide, I will say trial and error are the best way to get'er done, but having the right tools is more important, like a vacuum pump handheld to get the vacuum canister on the distributor tested for its amount of timing and adjusting to that, a old school timing light, newer ones have issues with msd boxes, a good quality carb one that has good adjustability. a vacuum gauge to see just how much vac you motor has at idle and how much it will produce from the timed port on the carb mines has 25" at 2500 rpm woot
more than enough to pull in a properly adjusted vac canister on the distributor. which should pull all in at 15".I wont get into all the other tools you could use, compression tester, leak down tester, anyway here is the guide that has helped me get my motor suited for a great driver now ready for some long trips.
Good luck noobs!
http://www.mopar1.us/engine2.html
:headbang:
Last edited:
