gkent
Well-Known Member
Looks like a decent piece for the money.
I'm getting close to switching to a roller cam in the big block!
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Curiousyellow71
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Summit brand is what we have been using recently as well.
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Torrington is best - a Good one ! Button for sure and stock cover ? Definitely reinforce inside and keep it @ a tight clearance I've seen where it rubbed a hole actually in a stock cover - do it right the 1st time
Cam movement will put stress on the gear drive mesh - wear & tear , timing fluctuations
I bought a gear set for a roller cam (102-1004) from 440 source that does not have the Torrington bearing. Can you buy that separately and install or is the cam gear machined especially for the Bearing? I do have the cam button. Had no idea about the cover flex and good to know. Great thread!
BSB67
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Ok and thank you.
That is a great solution.
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Several times over the years, I have called Dwayne Porter for advice and guidance. He has always been willing to help. I'm going to give him a call tomorrow. I have one cam in mind, one that FBBO member Hawk Rod has in a Road Runner:
This cam is a stock grind that is widely available so it would be convenient. The duration on both the intake and the exhaust is a bit milder than even the '528 solid I used to have. I wonder a bit about if it would be too much of a step back. My goals for power are something a bit hotter than the '528 but with enough idle vacuum to run the power brakes. I have a vacuum pump in place now but would prefer to pull that and put it on the shelf. The idea of it crapping out while out on a road trip just sucks.
440 source has a listing for a Comp cam that looks to be one step up:
It is a little more lift and duration but on the same 110 lobe center.
Right now the cam I'm running has no point where it slows down, it may rev to 7000 if I wanted it to but that makes me real nervous.
Check those huge duration numbers....This dude scrams at the top end. The Tremec 5 speed I have doesn't like to shift over 6000 rpms.
It isn't a slug at low rpms but it isn't as torquey as it was with the '528 solid I had awhile back.
This cam is a stock grind that is widely available so it would be convenient. The duration on both the intake and the exhaust is a bit milder than even the '528 solid I used to have. I wonder a bit about if it would be too much of a step back. My goals for power are something a bit hotter than the '528 but with enough idle vacuum to run the power brakes. I have a vacuum pump in place now but would prefer to pull that and put it on the shelf. The idea of it crapping out while out on a road trip just sucks.
440 source has a listing for a Comp cam that looks to be one step up:
It is a little more lift and duration but on the same 110 lobe center.
Right now the cam I'm running has no point where it slows down, it may rev to 7000 if I wanted it to but that makes me real nervous.
Check those huge duration numbers....This dude scrams at the top end. The Tremec 5 speed I have doesn't like to shift over 6000 rpms.
It isn't a slug at low rpms but it isn't as torquey as it was with the '528 solid I had awhile back.
BSB67
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you’re on the right path.
A cam the checks all the right boxes for anyone is such a personal thing and hard to put into words.
I’ve been following your posts on the subject. Your choice sounds like it could be the right one. The next size up in that cam lobe profile series might work for you too.
For sure a one-on-one conversation with Dwayne will get you what you’re looking for.
Good luck.
A cam the checks all the right boxes for anyone is such a personal thing and hard to put into words.
I’ve been following your posts on the subject. Your choice sounds like it could be the right one. The next size up in that cam lobe profile series might work for you too.
For sure a one-on-one conversation with Dwayne will get you what you’re looking for.
Good luck.
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This is the idle vacuum with the first comp cam. That cam pulled hard in a 500 through the entire rev range.
Now that I think about it that picture was likely taken idling in gear. It probably was over 10 inches of vacuum in neutral.
Now that I think about it that picture was likely taken idling in gear. It probably was over 10 inches of vacuum in neutral.
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F-I-N-A-L-L-Y !!
I made the call and placed the order with Dwayne. As always, he was a friendly and knowledgeable man that was willing to spend far more time than the average guy explaining the advantages and drawbacks of all the choices that are out there today.
I've zig-zagged about this for years. There are already a few threads (Even ones I started) on this forum about this subject. Do a search with the words Roller cam big block and you'll see. My hesitation has always been rooted in justifying the expense of it. This change is not like a flat tappet swap where all you need is a cam, lifters, gaskets and oil. There is steeper cost to do this and some different things to do to make it work. I've never used a brass or "Melonized" intermediate shaft gear before. I've never used a thrust button or a cam sprocket with a Torrington bearing on it. I've never checked installed height on valve springs. I've somehow been able to stumble through this hobby without too much trouble as if a guardian angle were protecting me. I've had some things break and of course, some cams go flat but nothing catastrophic.
The cam and lifter failure thing just eats at me. I'll never be 100% sure of what exactly caused the failures I've had in the past. The problem could be a combination of things that individually may not have been enough to cause a failure but when added together...
Wrong spring pressure, cranking too long to get it to start during break in, NO break in, No lifter rotation, Improper taper on the cam lobes, soft lifters, wrong oil....
As the car is now, it runs strong from the midrange to "redline" wherever that is. If it were possible to just shift the power band down by 1000-1500 rpms, it would be tempting to stick with it but I'd still have that nagging feeling that a cam failure is still lurking and waiting.
The car is as follows:
1970 Charger 440 based 495 that is .040 over, Icon flat tops with 24 cc stepped dish. Zero decked, Edelbrock closed chamber heads lightly ported, Fel Pro .039 head gasket. 9.8 to 1 compression. Edelbrock Performer RPM intake. Barry Grant Demon 850 VS, 2" TTI headers and 3" exhaust. Tremec 5 speed, 3.55 gears, 2.27 final drive in 5th/OD.
The Lunati solid is aggressive and one that on my own, I would not have selected. A FABO forum member suggested it over 10 years ago when I had detonation problems and was too stubborn to pull the engine to replace the pistons. The reasoning was that a bigger cam supposedly bleeds off cylinder pressure. It actually runs real strong but isn't a great fit for the type of driving that I do. I wanted one that performed well from idle to 5500-6000, would be a bit quieter due to hydraulic lifters and wouldn't get wiped out requiring me to pull the engine apart again.
I went with a custom grind chosen by Dwayne.
It will have 238/244 degrees I/E @ .050 with .581/.578 lift I/E (With my 1.6 rocker arms) on a 112 degree lobe center. The wider lobe separation will produce more vacuum so I'll be able to run the power brakes from it, allowing me to remove the vacuum pump.
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Ordering a custom cam means a bit of a wait but I'm okay with that. the Comp Cams "Evolution" lifters utilize a unique hydraulic cartridge that is supposed to run quieter than others.
Dwayne suggested a few things that I was on the fence about, one being the "Melonized" distributor drive gear. The brass ones seem to have a short life span so I'll step up a bit and get one. Valve springs are yet another area that I know very little about....Dwayne spoke of Installed height, a term that I have heard plenty of times but never had any experience with. The timing set needs a Torrington bearing on the back side of the cam sprocket. I was tempted to risk it but for the small difference in price, he made a good argument in favor of using one.
I don't expect an overall power increase from this, just more power down low. The Lunati doesn't lug/sputter/cough at low speeds but it doesn't respond like my smaller '528 cam did. On the freeway in 5th gear at 1500 rpms, the '528 pulled quickly without downshifting. The Lunati is not as crisp in low rpm throttle response.
Gas mileage? Some don't give a crap but it does matter. Sometimes if you're on a trip, a combo that gets 2 1/2 mpg better means peace of mind because you'll get further on a tank. It isn't just the money, it is the anxiety of running out of gas on the freeway.
I have also considered that this cam may be too mild for me at some point in the future. The beauty is that once the steep buy in has been over and done with, I can swap just camshafts alone and reuse the lifters, distributor drive, fuel pump pushrod, timing set and maybe even the valve springs. Try doing that with a flat tappet setup!
Dwayne suggested a few things that I was on the fence about, one being the "Melonized" distributor drive gear. The brass ones seem to have a short life span so I'll step up a bit and get one. Valve springs are yet another area that I know very little about....Dwayne spoke of Installed height, a term that I have heard plenty of times but never had any experience with. The timing set needs a Torrington bearing on the back side of the cam sprocket. I was tempted to risk it but for the small difference in price, he made a good argument in favor of using one.
I don't expect an overall power increase from this, just more power down low. The Lunati doesn't lug/sputter/cough at low speeds but it doesn't respond like my smaller '528 cam did. On the freeway in 5th gear at 1500 rpms, the '528 pulled quickly without downshifting. The Lunati is not as crisp in low rpm throttle response.
Gas mileage? Some don't give a crap but it does matter. Sometimes if you're on a trip, a combo that gets 2 1/2 mpg better means peace of mind because you'll get further on a tank. It isn't just the money, it is the anxiety of running out of gas on the freeway.
I have also considered that this cam may be too mild for me at some point in the future. The beauty is that once the steep buy in has been over and done with, I can swap just camshafts alone and reuse the lifters, distributor drive, fuel pump pushrod, timing set and maybe even the valve springs. Try doing that with a flat tappet setup!
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