• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

I'm new! Seeking 318 power knowledge!

KYCharger72

Member
Local time
10:58 AM
Joined
Aug 30, 2017
Messages
9
Reaction score
3
Location
Kentucky
IMG_2386.PNG
I've picked up a 72 charger that I have been dying to have for a long time. This is my first moose car so even though I have a general idea, I'd like more knowledge and explanation in the mopar world. My car has the 318 backed with a 904 trans and 8 1/4 rear end. However I would like to do a 727 or a manual good for the drag strip and Ford 9" swap. But the biggest question is not 440 or 426, I'm more curious as to what is the fastest I can make the 318 go? Blown 390, maybe even 416... nitrous?? i want to really do something different for around here where I'm from than the common mopar hemi engines and big blocks. Thanks in advance!
 
Welcome, I always liked the underdog engines dam things are hard to destroy, with that being said, the 318 needs a couple things to be a good screamer, Cylinder heads are terrible for performance, the flow around 180 cfm on the intake side which would only equate to around 360 hp max that head can make, I would switch to a 360 head, say J (915) or X (894) or 587 or 308, next I would run high compression around 10.5 to 1 by using a pop up piston (KB Sells them), than add a nice bump stick should easily make 400hp,
 
Keep the 904, it uses less power, weighs less, runs faster and can handle lots of power when built for it. And the driveshaft still fits! No hassles there! Huge homerun.

On the rear end, go with a Dana. The 8-1/4 can do for now. There highly underrated!

The engine as is, is to small to actually make a statement as in go fast. To much weight to move, to small of an engine. They can be made peppy! But that's about it.

If your interested in stroking the engine for cubes, a 4.00 arm is inexpensive and readily available. There are kits out there with more stroke but it will become very expensive so, I am opting in on a bang vs. buck spent and saving money. (As if I was doing this myself.)

In all honesty I would start with a cheap 360 block and go from there. Look for a late '80's, early 90's roller cam block.

For heads, budget wise again, there are a number of aluminum heads to consider. Edelbrock heads (for example) can be well ported and make power clearly into the 550+ range.

If your pockets are a bit deeper, I would look at the Victor heads and Crower rocker arms. Ether way, a solid roller would be the type of cam to use.
I'm not really a N02 fan but it does work and work well. It's like crack. Your always going to the dealer for more when you run out.
(I'd supercharge it)
And put your car on a diet!
 
Thanks for the info! Any kits or people to send these 904s to? Especially close to me in Kentucky? And I wasn't gonna keep the 318 til I saw this article.

http://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-1005-chrysler-318-hughes-engines-replacement/

And looks like they just kept it a 318, and procharged it made 660hp. So I thought maybe stroking it to a 390 or 416 then doing the procharger I could really make some good power and be pretty dang quick. Oh and it'll be going on a heavy diet, I'll be stripping it down as far as I can go. And if I can find fiberglass parts I might even do that too.
 
Well, I've kinda looked around and tried to come up with an idea on what to do with the motor. Because I'm not going to put it on a budget, but I'd like to use what I have just to see what it can do basically. I'm not worried about being streetable, just pushing its limits without actually breaking the limits lol.

But here's what I've come up with
Eagle stroker kit to 416- 20106030
Crane hydraulic roller cam advertised 314/324 and .588/.588- 699691
Edelbrock victor series race heads- 61729
Edelbrock victor 340 intake- 2915
Holley hp carb 750- 0-80575S
Procharger d-1sc

So... to much, any modifications? Completely wrong or otherwise? Lol
 
Welcome.
318s are great motors, hugely reliable. Great for light pickups or daily drivers, but as stated above. Your going to have trouble going north of 350hp.
 
Well as I said, it won't actually be a 318 any longer, I would be stroking it to what I'm thinking now, the 416 or maybe 390. And it won't be all motor either.
 
If you are planning a forced induction or nitrous engine it needs to be purposely built for those kinds of power adders.
 
If you are planning a forced induction or nitrous engine it needs to be purposely built for those kinds of power adders.

Yeah that's why I was planning on doing my own build, but i didn't know if they made any long blocks like that setup for those purposes.
 
Well, I've kinda looked around and tried to come up with an idea on what to do with the motor. Because I'm not going to put it on a budget, but I'd like to use what I have just to see what it can do basically. I'm not worried about being streetable, just pushing its limits without actually breaking the limits lol.

But here's what I've come up with
Eagle stroker kit to 416- 20106030
Crane hydraulic roller cam advertised 314/324 and .588/.588- 699691
Edelbrock victor series race heads- 61729
Edelbrock victor 340 intake- 2915
Holley hp carb 750- 0-80575S
Procharger d-1sc

So... to much, any modifications? Completely wrong or otherwise? Lol


Just a FYI helpful hint. An Actual link to the parts in the future would be more helpful to just plainly click on and see for review.

Is that Eagle stroker kit for the 318?
Is it a forged crank and pistons. I would certainly do a forged crank and piston set up and nothing less for what you list for use.
The cams oft is short. IMO, look for more lift to take advantage of the heads abilty to flow a lot of air. I do like the "IG" cams f
because the "IG" stands for iron gear. No bronze gear required. Saves money and time.
The Victor head requires a few things. Custom piston work in the intake valve relief for the larger 2.15 valve where as stock and most HP/race pistons will have clearance for a 2.02/2.08. Also realize that the head has a small closed chamber so the rotating assembly will have to be a very low compression ratio which is a piston way down in the hole.
 
Okay, so I will have a hard time getting a low enough compression for forced induction. The chambers would need to be like 83cc to get me to 9.5 with the 416 kit. So I decided to go nitrous with a high compression motor.

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/esp-20106030

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/edl-61729/overview/make/dodge

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2915

https://m.summitracing.com/parts/crn-699691

I'm still trying to decide on the carb, but I'm pretty sure this will be my way to go
 
You haven't mentioned the actual budget... Given the rear axle needs replacing, and the transmission needs some real building (not just rebuilding), you've got a lot of expense for those two, plus the incidentals like putting the rest of the car together. Anything can be done. Not everything can be paid for. So I'd like to start with how much cash do you have for the engine, knowing the rest of the car "needs"?
 
You haven't mentioned the actual budget... Given the rear axle needs replacing, and the transmission needs some real building (not just rebuilding), you've got a lot of expense for those two, plus the incidentals like putting the rest of the car together. Anything can be done. Not everything can be paid for. So I'd like to start with how much cash do you have for the engine, knowing the rest of the car "needs"?

+1. Sounds like the OP is willing to throw some serious bucks under the hood, and where there's power up front, there's a needy, money hungry drivetrain behind it that needs to be built too.

-Kurt
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top