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Intake manifold question (With pic)

Never saw it before, I'll keep my eyes and give it a try. So far PB Blaster has been my favorite.
 
I know this sounds crazy but my machine shop taught me to use beewax to remove rusted bolts and plugs. I didn't believe it untill they showed me how it works. It really is amazing. You heat the bolt up with a small torch but not to hot that it melts the alum. After it is hot I take a block of beewax and hold it down over the bolt. If the bolt will not come out with reasonable force with a standard length wrench, heat and apply Beeswax again. The beeswax melts down into the threads.
Most all the time, it will free on the second time around. This is a very old millwright method.
 
a tapered thread that seals may not work that well with out heating to crack it loose

the expansion from welding a nut on then letting cool works best or drill it out but donot touch the threads in manifold
 
bm02tj said:
a tapered thread that seals may not work that well with out heating to crack it loose

the expansion from welding a nut on then letting cool works best or drill it out but donot touch the threads in manifold
Click to expand...


Yep. Like I say if I have to drill it out, the intake is coming out, and I can deal with that, but I'd love to not have to take it all apart again. Just got it together, I don't know what I was thinking putting the intake on like that. (Probably something like "Man, I need to cover up the guts of the Engine"")


The Wax method has the most of my attention. I may give that a go this weekend.
 
CudaChick1968 said:
ga66, check out my Post #17 up there. :D[/QUOTE

Ok I see you already suggested the beeswax trick. I guess I'm confirming you’re suggestion to use beeswax.

I shake my head everytime I use beeswax to get a rusted bolt out.
Click to expand...
 
I am not sure why anyone is talking about welding anything to the plug. It looks like a torx or hex fitting, and it doesn't looked rounded or damaged to me. Why would you risk welding anything if all you need is the correct tool?

Am I missing something stupid here???
 
hsorman said:
I am not sure why anyone is talking about welding anything to the plug. It looks like a torx or hex fitting, and it doesn't looked rounded or damaged to me. Why would you risk welding anything if all you need is the correct tool?

Am I missing something stupid here???
Click to expand...

Yep!

you're missing all the stupid attempts I've made, which turned that SQUARE plug into a torx plug. hahahah

I swear the plug is made out of butter. I know about tapping on a tough rusty nut, I know about heat, PB blaster, I take pride in almost NEVER stripping or damaging fasteners, but this thing has me on the ropes.

I'm even gonna try that crazy beeswax method. Thats how crazy this has gotten.

Like I said above too, if I have to drill out and use an extractor, I'm just gonna buy a new intake. ALready looking for one, cause it really looks like it's headed that way.
 
HT413 said:
Sorry, crank, dont mean to disagree, but that's not correct. Things expand away from their center of mass and contract toward it. If you heat the plug, it will expand. If you heat the intake around the port the metal will expand away from the center, thus enlarging the hole.
Click to expand...

Thanks. I was beginning to question if what I was taught as a machinist in the Navy was incorrect. Especially after using the heating and cooling methods and having them work.
 
Well I'm just a backyard brokanic and the way I normally remove broken studs or bolts like that, is I use an "EZ out" fast an easy.
 
You have a STL plug in an AL intake, heat the plug and you're done...

I do it this way ALWAYS, the reason it's stuck is the idiot that thought they know what they're doing didn't know and just stuffed it in with no anti seize for the dissimilar metals and now you can't get the plug out...... Heat it till it just about goes red and watch how easy it comes out, you're breaking the electrolysis seal, or see you on page 14
 
I don't think that intake port is deep enough to accept that sender bulb. You may be doing all this work for nothing
 
HT413 said:
Sorry, crank, dont mean to disagree, but that's not correct. Things expand away from their center of mass and contract toward it. If you heat the plug, it will expand. If you heat the intake around the port the metal will expand away from the center, thus enlarging the hole.
Click to expand...
Have you ever tried to pull a stuck brake drum off using heat? What does it do before you finally get it off? If you apply heat to the ID of the drum first (like most do), the metal around the hole will expand first and that means it'll tighten up on the axle and when the whole drum becomes hot, then the hole will enlarge. Same thing happens on an intake manifold....but the heating and cooling trick usually works well on a threaded hole. Btw, a bolt hole on the end of an intake isn't the center of the mass.....imo.

Don't know how the Navy teaches a person to become a machinist or how long it takes to because a journeyman machinist but I know how many years my apprenticeship program was and that's the way I was taught.....and 30 years later, it still works for me. Not saying anyone is wrong but the methods I use seem to work faster.
 
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