Intake manifold swap? Worth swapping to a Performer from stock?

[440 Cuda]

Take A Look

P/N #2806301 {1968 and 1969} '383' Casting.

An easy to find Cast Iron Intake.

I just picked one up for $40 from the Auto Salvage Yard. This Intake Manifold
was found on every 1968 and 1969 {383 4-Barrel Mopar}.

1 11/16" x 1 11/16" Throttle-Bore sizes, and fits both the AFB and AVS.

Worth an easy {+10 Horsepower} over the early style 383 Intake {p/n #2205968}

 

[TBass]

Found one. You have all given me insight and options. I will now pursue this.

More to come......

 

[440 Cuda]

Underside of #2806301

The {1968 and 1969} 383 Intake is rated as the 'best' stock Cast Iron Intake by far.

http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTIwMlgxNjAw/$(KGrHqZ,!pgE8W)GrrS4BPUN9gE5ng~~60_57.JPG

 

[TBass]

I had seen an M1 intake not too long ago that said it was basically just an aluminum version of this one. But I haven't been able to find it again. I would actually consider going that route as long as this A/C will properly bolt up.

 

[440 Cuda]

Mopar M1 'Dual-Plane'

Part #4529117 {$225} thru Mancini Racing Products.

A 'stock' replacement for the {383}, with specifications equal to the 'stock' {1970 and 1971} Casting
with the 'split-divider' {right-left} Carburetor mounting-base.

A very good general performance Intake Manifold.

View attachment 204420

 

[TBass]

There she is! I swear I looked on MRE last night. That may be my best option.

 

[440 Cuda]

T Bass

You said that your 383 Engine is running at 180* Water Temperature.

Do you know what your Intake Manifold Casting temperature is. It should
be at 150* Temperature {maximum}.

Also, what material is the current Intake Manifold gasket. {Thin-steel or Gasket-type}.

 

[TBass]

I haven't honestly got way to check intake temp. I am just going off the way it changes from running great to sluggish and won't restart because of the flooding. Obviously hotter than the engine really wants. The gasket type is stamped steel as factory. This engine is built virtually stock. Different cam and Edelbrock carb plus headers. Everything else is Mopar. Runs awesome until the heat gets it.

 

[440 Cuda]

You could try the 'Fel-Pro' #1214 Gasket Kit. It comes with;

> Valley Pan {.015" Thickness} with the Cross-Over Heat Passage blocked off.
> And {4} Fiber-Port Gaskets {.030" Thickness}

The 'thick' Fiber-Port Gaskets help dissipate the heat-transfer coming off the Cylinder Head.

http://www.totalengineairflow.com/wp-content/uploads/wpsc/cache/product_img_116_190x210.jpg

 

[TBass]

Oh yeah! I ordered it a few days ago. I just dunno about putting those fiber gaskets under a stock manifold.

 

[Dennis H]

I haven't honestly got way to check intake temp. I am just going off the way it changes from running great to sluggish and won't restart because of the flooding. Obviously hotter than the engine really wants. The gasket type is stamped steel as factory. This engine is built virtually stock. Different cam and Edelbrock carb plus headers. Everything else is Mopar. Runs awesome until the heat gets it.

Get a laser temp gun. Really helps to find problems and know for sure.

 

[TBass]

Those temp guns are handy as hell! I do need one.

 

[boneheadsGeTeX]

Ups just dropped off my Intake and valley pan today,, I went with mopar ,wedge intake 440 and the vally pan that blocks off the heat holes,, I didnt even think about my A/C, till I r e ad this post,, and what about the throttle cable and tranny kick down ?,, heres what it looks like just setting on her,

 

[TBass]

I have modified the throttle brackets before. Not usually a huge deal. But there are several aftermarket brackets out there if you do need to change. The throttle cable length could be an issue. My car was originally a 2-V car, so eventually I will have to cough up that $100 to change my cable. But of course, with the heat problem I am dealing with, the throttle cable is working just fine.

That intake is sexy! I like it! My brackets would never clear those runners.

 

[boneheadsGeTeX]

I took befor pictures ,, my AC is a after market unit, and is smaller .looks like it mite work , dont real know yet .the vally pan does cover the cross over ports but darn counldnt they cover them ugly holes in the heads,,Wher do I look for a throttle bracket? Ebay? Heck what am I looking for?

 

[A383Wing]

I'm still running the heat crossovers on all my Chargers....no re-start issues ever

 

[440 Cuda]

An Infrared Laser Thermometer would be most beneficial.

You can pick one up for about $20.

General Temperature Readings
* Water Temperature.................. 180* to 195*
* Intake Manifold Casting............. 150*
* Intake Plenum......................... 120* to 140*
* Carburetor Air Temperature........ 90* to 105* {Above Carburetor}

The I.A.T. {Intake Air Temperature} must be less than the Engine Water Temperature.

 

[TBass]

A383, my stock 361 didn't have this issue in the slightest. This is the intake and carb off of that engine and it had the same valley pan on it. That's one of the things about this problem that confuses the hell out of me. Operating temp is the same, intake is the same, carb is the same, valley pan is the same part number. Completely new issue. Seems very strange to me..

 

[HT413]

I took befor pictures ,, my AC is a after market unit, and is smaller .looks like it mite work , dont real know yet .the vally pan does cover the cross over ports but darn counldnt they c[over them ugly holes in the heads,,Wher do I look for a throttle bracket? Ebay? Heck what am I looking for

Here ya go...

http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/trcabr.html

 

[440 Cuda]

G-Man

I would only use an Edelbrock Performer #2186 when you have nothing else to install on the 383,
or if it is 'strictly' a moderate High-Performance build, and you want an Aluminum Dual-Plane Intake.

But, it does run 'cooler' than the Cast Iron Intake Manifolds.