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Intake manifold/valve cover sealing products

dodge68charger

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I noticed my engine builder didnt use any gaskets on my intake manifold on my 440 engine on either side of the valley pan. Can anyone recommend a really good sealant to use to put the manifold back on. I took it off to paint it and hes away for the holidays. Where does the flat 6"x 4" plate go with the 3 holes for the valley pan holdown bars?

Also anyone recommend where to find some really good rubber valve cover gaskets for a 440 engine. Dont want no leaks..Thanks
 
Dont need any, I am in the process of re installing mine after a lifter swap, I am using the the paper gaskets this time only because the aviation sealant I used last time with no gaskets got into the valley and would get sticky gooey when hot and drip.

This time I just use black RTV on both sides of the bathtub (paper gaskets to tub) then install, no sealant on the heads or the manifold. let the bathtub do the work as the ridges on it will crush and create a seal. with the paper gaskets installed it will help the seal around the ports and for fuel & vacuum so I'm told. Will let you know tomorrow how it works out, But just like valve covers, just seal the gasket to the cover then after a few minutes of letting it get tacky then install no goop on the head.


Front and rear hold down bars hold down the front & rear of the bathtub use RTV under them bolt down, take care to get RTV in the corners where the bar meets the manifold, the only leak spot on these.


Felpro makes good gaskets rubber fiber are good I take my covers off occasionally and re install no issues.

Try these

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fel-1612/overview/make/plymouth
 
Thank you for the advice. Im gonna pick up some black Rtv on monday. I ll see if my local parts store has those gaskets and a new valley pan
 
Should i coat the bolts in anything?

Yes, Put a bit of teflon paste sealer on the manifold bolts so oil won't wick up the threads and get oil on the intake.
If you use the paper gaskets make sure the intake does not sit too high on the heads. Usually, for me, the gaskets put the intake manifold too high and the ports and bolt holes don't line up, so I just use a little RTV sealer and just install the metal tub gasket without the paper gaskets.
The Blue Moroso valve cover gasket (rubber over steel core) work good and usually can be reused. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-93055/overview/make/chrysler
 
Second the FelPro for valve covers. Light snugging for at least 5 heat cycles.
 
Thanks guys. Really appreciate the help. Exactly the valve cover gaskets i was looking for.
 
The Blue Moroso valve cover gasket (rubber over steel core) work good and usually can be reused. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mor-93055/overview/make/chrysler

I use the blue Moroso gaskets also and I found they work great with aluminum heads and the good billet aluminum valve covers. I love using them as I have aluminum heads and valve covers. I have found with iron heads and stock valve covers that then the Moroso bue gaskets wont work so well because you dont have two nice flat surfaces with iron heads and stock valve covers. Ron
 
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Any of these better for sealing the valley pan to the block and intake. No paper gaskets. Engine buildwr didnt use any
 
I just got done using the bathtube with paper gaskets on either side of the tub, pipe dope for the bolt threads and black RTV on the hold down areas with a little extra in the corners and less than an hour setup time and fired it all up and no leaks. Just an FYI
 
You can't get paper gaskets in the intake anyway. Use sealer as mentioned. The rubber impregnated cork valve cover gaskets have worked well for me.
 
You can't get paper gaskets in the intake anyway. Use sealer as mentioned. The rubber impregnated cork valve cover gaskets have worked well for me.

"You can't get paper gaskets in the intake anyway"

What do you mean?
 
"You can't get paper gaskets in the intake anyway"

What do you mean?

There just isn't room unless something has changed in the head dimension. Every BB MoPar I have worked on (iron head) I just use the valley pan with some sealer. Except the Max Wedge. Those have thick paper gaskets.
 
you're probably right, I am trying the paper gaskets now and they work fine but my set up as you know is not stock just keeping with the peace of mind idea of no vac leaks anywhere plus I am using stainless steel ARP manifold bolts. one thing I did learn is to use thread sealant not the ARP stuff on manifold bolts, as oil will find that tiny little gap in the threads and weep it's way up and out on to the bathtub. The ARP thread lube gets thin and may hold threads in place but does not seal.

Last round I used just the bathtub with aviation sealant and that worked however I will never use he aviation stuff again as it never really got solid and ended up leaking into the valley itself. when the motor was hot you could see and feel that stuff like goop made a more of a mess than just RTV. I'm told you don't even need RTV at all except maybe in the corners.
 
Do i torque the ultra grey to full torque when wet then re-torque it a few hours later? Thanks
 
Stock bolts or ARP's? either way never hurts to check and re check after a few runs.
 
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