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Is there a better cam for me?

Looks like another lazy big block stroker six pak that may be overcammed.
Six pak is not set up properly, too much jet and the outboards need to be touched.
Six pak Set up & Tune up is incorrect. A simple statement that means a lot. I am not here to fix this just to point the op in the right direction.
AFR is rich at idle, type of gas determines AFR. I bet the intake is very wet with fuel
Send us your car and we will tune it for you, typical charge starts at $750.00 + parts
This probably is the case with many sixpack engine out there .
Don't think this is the problem.
I know this because it seems to be getting better since I jetted up and increased the size of the accelerator pump cam to the brown .
There is no boging and the plugs are not wet .
I am running a 195 temp thermostat.
Throttle response is awesome.
I think this I would have different symptoms.
It could be a fuel delivery issue not enough fuel for the demand.
Not the easiest set up to rig fuel pressure gauge on a stock metal line six pack.
We are working on getting that now figured out
To watch fuel pressure while driving.
 
Looks like another lazy big block stroker six pak that may be overcammed.
Six pak is not set up properly, too much jet and the outboards need to be touched.
Six pak Set up & Tune up is incorrect. A simple statement that means a lot. I am not here to fix this just to point the op in the right direction.
AFR is rich at idle, type of gas determines AFR. I bet the intake is very wet with fuel
Send us your car and we will tune it for you, typical charge starts at $750.00 + parts
Uhhh, who are you?
 
I think your cam is a bit small but not outrageously so. You said something that made me think otherwise on a possible answer. You said if you dump the clutch and nail the gas you can roast the tires. But if you hook it up by being easy on the gas and clutch then hammer it you don’t spin. What do you have for rear suspension aids. If I slam the pedal off the line I can fry the tires well into second. But if I try to launch it, which is hard on 275/60/15 Cooper cobras and a 2 to 1 converter even with a Calvert splits and bars. And it hooks then the rest of first is cool and planted. Someone on here said you’re really asking for a stick to do what an auto easily does. Multiply torque thru the converter. Down low my street tires don’t stand a chance if I nail it. I have maybe 550 lb/ft at 2800 to 3500 rpm. My converter will if it’s a good one almost double that number until it stalls out. Then it is just a stick with a bit of clutch slip on up to red line. All I’m saying is if you have good suspension that’s doing its job on street tires then there might not be anything wrong. Spend the money on a dragy and look at your 60 foot times. Maybe spend some money of a set of Drag Radials. Anyway I’m interested in your suspension.
 
So, I missed something. You have an automatic trans. or manual four speed. If an automatic does it have the stall converter. The rear end may be too tall. When drag racing we liked the 3:55 gearing. Wish you luck and know you will figure it out in the end. :thumbsup:
 
My 2 cents. Something is amiss. Might just be your tune.

I think your combination of parts is fine. I like the cam.

Me and a few friends ran mild street 440’s for several years. 2 of them were six pack cars. Smaller cam, less cylinder head and less exhaust than what you have. We were in the high 12s at 107-109. Without touching anything in your suspension or tires, I think your car could go 12.7s at 112 and that is with your 2.15 sec. 60’ time.

Work on shift point, and carb opening rate. Keep opening the outboards faster until the car slows down. This can only be done at the track. Street tuning the carb opening rate will not get you the lowest et., highest mph.
 
We did run in pretty good air, but never as good as 215’
 
Thanks to all who has taken the time .
To reply.
So I have 295 55 r 15 Mickey Thompson drag radials
Stock 6 leaf springs on both sides with front segments
Clamped and rear spring segment bands removed .
The trans is A 18 spine hemi trans
Not sure if close ratio or not .
The clutch is a10.95 centerforce dual friction.
Stock Mopar performance adjustable distributor with light springs.
Electronic stock type ignition blue 6500 that know Mopar guy sells on eBay.
Msd blaster coil.
My best 60 ft with just driving no burnout is 1.94 so far .
I just not used to a car with real good traction I Guess.
Every other hot rod / cars I have had with drag radials.i could spin the tires with just throttle from a slow roll this car will not
It just goes.
 
If it is getting good traction your still leaving a lot of performance...some where?
A 2.15 60' should be almost one second quicker in E.T.
1.95 even faster. Something is up and I don't think it related to the cam size. The way the cam was installed..perhaps?
 
For the people who think I am BS here is the piston at the top of the deck.

Screenshot_2024-10-11-20-02-28-26_92460851df6f172a4592fca41cc2d2e6.jpg
 
I just aligned the dots so maybe..
Just hard to believe a heavy car in my mind needs to run out the back door not be done at 5500 rpm.

IMG_20220101_213957.jpg
 
I would take a compression test. See where your at.
This.

What is the piston dish volume? Looks like 20 cc plus. Strange to buy a low compression piston only to mill the heads 0.060”.

And, is that piston upside down?
 
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I think a 18 spline has 2.45 1st gear, so that isn’t going to help you out of the hole. If it’s hooking you’re going to be lazy till it gets in the power band.
I agree with the others that you should have more mph.
 
This.

What is the piston dish volume? Looks like 20 cc plus. Strange to buy a low compression piston only to mill the heads 0.060”.

And, is that piston upside down?
Hi , piston is correctly installed .
Went with this piston because the were what we had left over from another build .
We shaved the head to get up to 10 to 1
Or a little over.
It is very snappy and has great quench.

IMG_20211223_122610.jpg
 
If the pistons were installed the way they are in this image(I flipped the image) ...BSB67 is absolutely correct...they would be installed upside down. The dish should be where the combustion chamber is. The valve reliefs would be upside down so your valve to piston clearance would be compromised.

Screenshot_20241013_091334_Chrome.jpg
 
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Good eye that is not how they were installed that was a quick moc up picture.
Your right I have a picture of the final assembly.

IMG_20220108_233429.jpg
 
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